I neglected to check the seal on old ones when I removed them or even how they were fitted.

Is this adequate? Placed right on a 60w lightbulb. I assume the bevel edge sits flat against the bore.

I'm still dealing with the "lean at 3k" issue.

It's a 1968 18b with the one piece iron manifold (intake and exhaust).

It runs the same with a pcv valve and without (plugged).

--
MPergiel, Walker, MI

After I rebuilt the carbs on my "68 122, I couldn't get it to idle. Thought I had a vacuum leak, but turned out to be just an un-centered throttle plate. Idles fine now.

where did the picture go?
--
MPergiel, Walker, MI

Thanks for your patience.

I was able to extract one carb needle, by gripping the very tip with a bit of rubber and pliers and tapping the body away.

It's a KA needle. Should it be ZH? The tip measures .077 and the base measures .097. A ZH is .0675 and .099.

http://www.glenngoodspeed.com/volvo/NEEDLES.HTM

I did a gasoline leakthru test on the throttle plates, they are okay. I might have had one slightly wrong.

Supposedly the KA needle is leaner throughout. Somewhere on this page it says KA needles were never used in Volvos.

http://www.sw-em.com/su_carbs.htm

Who knows, this car has single circuit brakes and was titled as a 1968 in New Jersey originally. The serial number indicates it's a 1967 and a friend of mine here said that the dealer probably retitled it as a 1968 to sell it as a current model year. Maybe it always ran this way and they couldn't sell it.

MAYBE, new emissions regulations in 1968 required a fix, and they just put in a leaner needle to reduce something in the exhaust.

Or is this an ignition problem, now that I have shiny cleanedup carbs?









--
MPergiel, Walker, MI

The KA needles sometimes show up in Volvo related listings, but I've never come across them in the real world.

As you say, they're a bit leaner; and given that your initial description matched a lean condition (and that after a lot of work, you still have symptoms that indicate a lean condition), absolutely try the richer needles. Measurements from end to end are a little helpful, but you've probably seen some of the charts that show how the needles are measured at close intervals all through the length of the needle(s) from end to end.

All that said, if the head has ever been planed; or if the pistons might be oversized, or if the cam isn't original, a needle that's on the lean side of stock to begin with will result in an even leaner mix with any of the above mentioned changes.

In short, I'd say "No. KA needles probably aren't ok."

You're close! Good luck --

Cameron
Portland

It makes no sense to me, but new jets seem to have fixed it.

I tanked the bodies overnight just to make them pretty, and reassembled with new jets only and it runs up fine, at the basic settings with minimal tuning (balance flow at idle).

I should do a flow/drip test on the old jets.

I'm still going to try ZH needles which are a little richer.

Sorry for the bother.
--
MPergiel, Walker, MI

uniberp wrote--"It makes no sense to me, but new jets seem to have fixed it."
The only things I could think of is that there was some kind of obstruction within to tube from the float chamber to the jet(s). Maybe an old "O" ring left inside -- or the new one misshapen--or the old jets not manufactured properly -- Dave

Hi uniberp,

I've been following your posts.

Here's your image you posted in the BrickPix:


On your imaging device (digital camera, mobile phone ...), you may want to use the camera macro feature. A flower-like icon should display indicating your camera or other imaging device is able to record macro (closed up) images. Like:



or:


or:



Your file image URL is:
https://dzywoxlnnkpjm.cloudfront.net/12473.jpg

OR can be:
https://www.brickboard.com/IMAGELIB/_images/12473.jpg

Or can be:
https://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/images/12473.jpg

cloudfront.net is the cloud service that hosts the brickboard.com site.

The link to your BrickPix image of the butterfly throttle is:
https://www.brickboard.com/GALLERY/volvopic.htm?id=12473

In the BrickPix HTML field, you see the partial (or relative URL) that may or may not work in some browsers:


If you see the image above, your browser is okay or can used cached info and cookies stored while you work with brickboard.com.

You select and copy the URL from the BrickPix image page HTML field, and paste it into the brickboard message IMAGE URL field. You may be able to use the [IMAGE LIBRARY (UPLOAD/SELECT)] feature while on the thread message page you are writing in (or on?).

As, without the < and > brackets, is:

img src='/GALLERY/images/12473.jpg'/

It may be best to reference the exhaustive, or absolute URL.

Mr. Jarrod Stenberg, some time ago, changed (eased) the BrickPix file requirements. Image may be as large as you want so long as file size is under 1024 kilobytes (also one megabyte).

Also, here's Art Benstein's instructions posting an image in your brickboard message:


Hope that helps. Glad your Volvo works better now.

Questions?

Thank you,

B.
--
Love your Volvo brick and your www.brickboard.com!