Okay, sages, here is a strange one.

After driving the car (245) 500 miles in 2 days without incident, it is now making a very odd noise. Moving forward, it is a clicking noise, like a playing card jammed in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. In reverse, it sounds like there is a squirrel hiding out in the driveshaft tunnel. The noise, in forward gears and in reverse, seems to be coming from under the parking brake/console area.

The noise started today, but I have noticed for the last several hundred miles that the rear end "clunks" when I let off the gas.

Bad front u-joint or bad carrier are my guesses.

Interested in your thoughts....

This is maybe off topic,

but just a suggestion,
When I had a clicking noise in the driveshaft and transmission tunnel it was fortunately just a disintegrating parking brake shoe tugging at the cable to the parking brake leaver inside the cabin.

I'd rule this out first before getting into any major tranny, carrier bearing, u joint replacements.

when mine failed it sounded exactly like you describe it as a pack of playing cards stuck in the spokes of a bicycle wheel. As the little butterfly spreader got hit and tumbled around in the rear parking brake drum and tugged at the cable up the transmission tunnel.

Just a suggestion.

cheers,

I would agree that your guesses are likely correct.

You did not say the year of the car, miles or if it was a manual or automatic.
Both can suffer a transmission tail shaft bushing noise and rear seal oil leakage.

This all depends on how long the driveshaft has been supported by transmission instead of the other way around of the supports holding and guiding.

A dry of grease support bearing squeaks, whines or squeals at a high pitch sound at 30 mph or higher speeds.
A universal joint losing its needles members or crushing them up, can make small crunchy sounds.
Maybe like a squirrel munching on lunch? Never thought about it that way!

All of this can spin inside the rubber mount and a rumble soon occurs, of which, might lead to not such a pretty site on a highway.

I suggest getting the rear axle up in the air and rotating everything fairly close up.

Look for jumping or lopping of any tight U-joints in either a sideways or up and down directions.

Listen for a nice smooth rolling/turning action on the rubber mounts center supporting ribs. No twitching or jerking of those are allowed. Have a good fit on the bearing outside diameter too.

Rock this stuff back and forth by turning the shaft by hand and using the drive wheels.
Pull and push things a bit to confirm a solid driveline.

The rubber support mounts are still reasonably priced.
In fact, all the drive line replaceable parts are so standard and plentiful it what keeps it that way on these cars.

IMHO
Phil

Phil,

It is an '84 245 w/M46 tranny.

Hi Jack Black,

Making any new films? Hope not. Ha.

Probably not a tail shaft bushing in a manual transmission M46.

Indeed, as machine man describes here.

Place a hand in front of a U-Joint and another just behind it. Twist. Feel a click or play? You'll need to replace it or have someone replace these for you. You have a two-piece drive shaft. Mark and verify alignment before removal. Your Bentley, Haynes, or Volvo Green factory shop manual (find them online for free, if incomplete) provides drive-line diagnosis and repair guidance.

You may want to verify condition of both motor mounts and the single transmission mount, if they are sagged or broken. Replace them.

Have you checked transmission fluid level? How is the transmission fluid? Replace if bad. Use, at least, a quality type F or heavier in warmer climes. Success with the Amsoil Super Shift racing fluid (Ford "Type F" and Alison C-4 compliant), or Redline MTL, or the Redline Ford "Type F" auto transmission compliant fluid.

https://www.brickboard.com/FAQ/700-900/TransmissionManual.htm

You may want to search for articles from brickboard and turbobricks baord member vvpete, as he has numerous recommendation for Volvo manual transmission fluid, but these may apply to M47 and newer.

Have you adjusted the clutch cable for proper free play?

Questions?

cheers,

dud.