Old engine (blown) was a 91, the replacement is a new 94 squirter. The only mods I have done to it are a VX(?) cam, 15G turbo and 91 front end gears with IPD cam gear, none of which mods should materially affect initial start-up. Just finished installation this evening. It cranks well, has electrics etc, but no start. I cracked the fuel line, no fuel at the rack when cranking. There is a moderately loud buzzing sound under the dash and I am unable to locate its source. It is neither of the fuel pumps that I can tell (ear to fuel door, and stethoscope to the main pump). It is not in the engine compartment (ie idle air motor) It sounds to be coming from under the dash, but I can't tell where (I am partially deaf!). Whether or not this buzzing is related to the lack of fuel at the rack when cranking I do not know, and obviously need some assistance. It sounds like a muted seat belt buzz from a domestic vehicle (?).
I knew this engine swap would not end easily.......
Thanks!!!
JD

Today (November 4) I went out to the shop to figure out what the heck was going on. I know it couldn't be mechanical, because the whole issue was insufficient fuel due to a malfunctioning fuel pump relay socket. So to confirm this I shot a bit of fuel into the throttle body and sure enough the car fired. Okay, so I had to be an issue with the way I rewired the engine bay when I swapped motors.
I checked continuity between various items such as AMM and ECU and idle IAC and the FPS and was getting weird and inconsistent results. So I started removing and checking each engine bay connection.
Someone please come to my house and kick my miserable butt as hard as they can. Twice please. I found I had switched the two multi pin connections on the passenger side up by the cowl. Swapped them around and WOW it lives!!!
Thanks for everyone's input on this, every bit of info was greatly appreciated, dead end or not. I am especially grateful to Amarin, for hanging in there to the end!
Again, thanks folks\!!!!
JD

Congratulations! You're welcome.

Amarin.

Well, I tried another ECU today, a 937 borrowed from a friend, and there is no change, still nothing from the fuel pump relay in KPI, and a steady buzzing from the relay in KPII. I am at my wits end, no idea where to look from here. I need to figure out why the fpr is not getting a proper signal.
JD

I do not know how this might relate to your situation but I would like to share my experience with a buzzing fuel injection relay.

I suddenly experienced a no start situation in a 240 (I believe it was a 1988). Along with the no start I was hearing a very loud buzzing from the fuel injection relay. Using a test light I found that I was getting the battery voltage on the relay socket. Jumpering the fuses to force the pumps to run allowed the car to start and run.

Someone here suggested that while I might have 12v being supplied I might not have the necessary amperage to close and hold the relay closed. To test that possibility I ran a wire directly from the battery to the correct connector on the socket. When I tried to start it with the bypass wire in place the car started and ran fine.

The 240 had an under hood inline fuse that was troublesome but this car had had that replaced and the fuse was clean and making good contact. As I looked further I found that the wire that lead from the battery to the fuel injection relay socket was swollen near the connector at the positive post.

When I disconnected the wire and cut back the insulation where it was swollen I found that it was heavily corroded and the corrosion was making its way up the wire under the insulation.

I cut off the connector and that portion of the wire that was corroded and soldered on a new connector. Problem solved. The corrosion was choking off the current flow but the 12v was still there and of course it had enough amperage to light a test light.

Is it possible you have the same situation in that the voltage is being delivered to the relay but the necessary amperage is absent?

Randy

Hello,

Sorry to see it has come to this point.

I think you really need to go back to the basics.

1. Verify back your timing marks. Use the mark at crankshaft washer not at the crankshaft flywheel.
2. Zero back any timing advance at the IPD camshaft gear.
3. Verify that crankshaft and camshaft not broken midway in two. Crank the engine with entire valve cover open and look for movement of all concerned parts.
4. Verify all the valve clearances with your new VX cam.
4. Correct back the missed tooth at the intermediate shaft.
5. Check back your CPS. This time with a voltmeter (set to resistance reading) stay connected to its plug. Wriggle the CPS wire to look for intermittent break in wiring.

These may sound extreme but who knows..

Hope this helps,
Amarin.

Amarin
I agree that going back through everything might seem to make sense, however, will any of those things that you list address the basic issue of a non-operational fuel pump relay? Timing, valve clearances, timing advance, CPS and all those things are important, but only _after_ the initial ignition and fuel systems are operating correctly. Is that not correct?
Thanks!
JD

Hello,

Well, swapping the ECU did not make any change, I think we can logically go back to the engine for the cause of your relay buzzing and no start.

Unless, your pumps suddenly decided not to run all this while. But it ran via jumpers. And you have used new relay.

It is known that the relay's input depended on the ECU, but then the ECU relies on what it could get from the engine. In other words its the engine's abnomality causes the buzz rather than the ECU's abnomality. Thus back to the engine I'd say.

Amarin.

Edit: Sorry if this was already covered, is there gas in the tank?

Amarin
looks like my messages are getting posted two and three times for some reason. Anyway, before I tore into it today I thought I would try a shot of fuel directly into the TB. When I did that the car immediately started.
JD

Hello,

That's good news!

Like rstarkie mentioned I think you'd have check the wiring to the relay. I'm not sure how wiring issue could have crop up this time when you're swapping engines. It may be connected to the blown engine event or just plain ageing.

You'd have to check fuse 1 for any corrosion, as it supplies the ECU, ICU and fuel relay. If this doesn't help then you may have to look further under the relay/fuse block for any abnormal (i.e. swollen/loose/burnt) wiring.

Hope this helps,
Amarin.

Amarin
looks like my messages are getting posted two and three times for some reason. Anyway, before I tore into it today I thought I would try a shot of fuel directly into the TB. When I did that the car immediately started.
JD

Well, I tried another ECU today, a 937 borrowed from a friend, and there is no change, still nothing from the fuel pump relay in KPI, and a steady buzzing from the relay in KPII. I am at my wits end, no idea where to look from here. I need to figure out why the fpr is not getting a proper signal.
JD

Was the 91(old motor) a turbo or not???
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

yes, a 91 b230ft with I don't know how many miles on it. A lot. If I had to guess, maybe 350,000km. Well abused with a life in the city until I liberated it and gave it some TLC. It served me as a great mule for a few years, hauling a small covered trailer, and my 1800 on a dolly on occasion. Worked really well until the foolish half plastic heater valve snapped in half and I lost all my coolant. I have a coolant level sensor I have installed with this new engine. Which will be great if I can get the FP relay to work!
JD

No clue why your fuel pump relay is buzzing. Have you looked at the relay socket for any signs of overheating/shorting etc? If it was my car. I would pull the relay and jumper the socket and see if it will start and run. If not, pull a plug and see if's it wet. If so, I would suspect the 8BTDC. Had a sheared cam pin years ago that pushed it off about 5 teeth, no start. But I never put a timing light on it to see how far 5 teeth off would be. Back to the basics:
Fuel
Spark
Compression
And spark at the right time.
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

I have spark.
It is occurring in the right sequencne at the right point.
I have compression.

Can you tell me how to jumper the FP relay socket to bypass the relay?
JD

Hello,

Looks like the engine is buttoned up nicely (well..except a few cogs at the intermediate shaft).

I suspect a low battery charge could be the cause of buzzing relay. With the starter functioning it could take much power off the ECU and prevent it powering the fuel relay too (or cause intermittent powering - thus the buzzing).

Just a suspicion. Haven't experienced this myself.

Hope this helps,
Amarin.

Amarin, you are correct that the buzzing might result from low voltage current, but in this case the battery is fully charged.
I am beginning to suspect a faulty signal from the ECU, as everything else seems to check out.
Thanks
JD

Hello,

Noted, thanks!

Question:

Your 1991 engine uses a cold start injector whereas the 1994 engine does not. This is according to wiring diagram. Did you install back your old intake manifold?

Anyway make sure its wiring not mixed up with the other injectors. Pull out the injector plug's protective boot and verify the wire colors. Grey and grey-black for the cold start whereas grey and green for the others.

(These are from Mitchell's 1991 940 turbo diagram and 1994 940 Volvo turbo greenbook)

Hope this helps,
Amarin.

All is as it should be. I labelled each injector lead as I removed them from the injectors. They were re-installed correctly.
JD

Unlike 200 series ECU's failing I have not heard of any 900's having the same problem but it could be possible.

What is the Bosch #?

Swap in a spare and see.

Dan

Hi Dan
It is a -563, which I chipped a few years ago. Is a -967 compatible?
I went out to the shop just now and jumpered pins 30 and 87b on the relay board for the pump relay, and both pumps are working just fine. So somehow the rlay itself is not getting the proper signal.
Thanks!\
JD

I am not familiar with the various turbo ECU's but 563 sounds like one of the older LH 2.4 turbo ECU's.

The pink or colored label 561 ECU's for NA 200 series biggest problem was the loss of the ground signal to the fuel relay. If your 563 ECU has a colored label you may be onto something?

I think a 937 ECU is a newer LH 2.4 turbo ECU as is the 967. The 967 is for a LH 2.4 turbo, plug it in and see if it works.

I just googled 563, and it appears to be LH 2.4?

But this link particularly the last post on the page by rhaire might help you out.

http://www.forums.turbobricks.com/showthread.php?t=276661

ECU compatibility list

http://www.nuceng.ca/bill/volvo/database/ecu.htm

Dan

For setting everything at TDC (like the reluctance ring) and rechecking ignition timing, are you using the mark on the crank sprocket or are you using the mark on the damper pulley ring? And have you checked that they both jive? I'm thinking maybe the damper pulley may have spun on the rubber ring.

Sorry if this has already been discussed earlier in the thread. I haven't read them all.

I do not know about the relay and buzzing issue, but I did have a bad contact in the relay board under a different relay, so maybe pull it out, turn it over and look at that.

The no start; any chance the cam is not set correctly? How did you align it?
Edit; I now see that you swapped the gears on the motor. What shape was the little square boss on the crank gear, in? Did it go back on correctly?

The cam was set with number one I&E lobes pointing obliquely upward (11 and 1 oclock) while the cam wheel mark was at TDC, coincident with TDC marks lining up on the crank.
I believe the car would start if I can figure out what is wrong with the fuel pump relay. There is either a missing ground, or a missing trace current from the ignition. But I do not know which contacts those are. Once I can determine what is missing, I might be able to figure out why it is missing, such as a missed connection in the engine compartment when I swapped motors. I will try to lift the relay board today as suggested and test connections.
Up to the moment the engine cratered on the highway last March it was running fine, all relays and electrics were fully functional, which leads me to believe it is something I screwed up in the motor swap and re-connection.
JD

In above posts you said there is spark, and you said the plugs were wet. They get wet only when you do something to the relay I think, but they do get wet. Have you tried some starting fluid? That can tell you if the motor will run, especially if there is spark at the right time

Did you do this?
http://volvoforums.com/forum/volvo-240-740-940-12/1985-volvo-240-timing-belt-72698/#post361619

A. yes
B. no

Was the locating pin on the crank gear in good condition, and was it set correctly?
A. yes
B. no
C. don't know

Chasing other possible causes is going to be confusing until these are firmly established, IMO.

Okay. Just went out to the shop and had a look. The timing marks all still line up on compression number 1 TDC.
I then put a remote starter button on the starter, and hooked up the timing light on number one. Ignition on, cranked motor with strobe on crank pulley. Number one cylinder is firing at approx 8 degrees BTDC. Fuel pump relay buzzing like crazy the whole time.
Odd thing is that when i first pushed the remote starter button, it actually fired up for maybe half a revolution. Must have been some residual fuel from tow days ago when I forced the relay. This goes a long way to reassuring me that everything is just great, except for the FP relay circuit. I'm just not getting fuel, or enough fuel when I force the relay. Any thoughts?
JD

I recall one lengthy no start issue that turned out to be a clogged fuel filter; 30psi is not enough to push through the injectors.

Timing belt alignment and sprocket installation were done (numerous times during installation) as per your supplied diagram with the exception of the aux. shaft which is off by a few teeth, which really should not make any material difference.
I am going to have to answer to your second question with a "C"; I don't know. What I do know however is that the crank pulley installed and locked positively on the pin, and the bolt was torqued to 35 Ft# then turned an additional 60 degrees. I have no reason to believe the pin was in poor shape, and the pulley alignment marks on the crank and cam still line up after copious cranking.
I will go have another look for spark and where it occurs on #1. As to the plugs being wet when I forced the pumps, they are not dripping wet, but there is definitely fuel on them. As I stated in an earlier post, the car has fired, but briefly and raggedly, for a few seconds.
My main focus remains trying to figure out how to get the fuel pump relay to work properly.
JD

I picked up a new fuel pump relay today and tried it. No difference. Position 1 no 2 second sound from fuel pump, position II the relay starts to buzz.
Assuming that contact 30 on the relay is the power contact, I jumpered 12 volts to it directly from the battery. No change. I would like to try a ground jumper to the relay to see if it a ground problem but am not sure which contact on the relay is ground. Is 85 normally ground on a relay.
JD

Is the distributor cam-driven or on the side of the engine as some 940's were.

the distributor on this car is cam driven at the firewall. It is installed in the correct orientation and the rotor engages in the drive positively and in the same plane/direction as on the old engine, both old and new engines being observed at TDC #1 compression.
Both removal of all components/ancillaries, and installation of same on new engine, were done at TDC #1 compression.
JD

I sat here and figured out what the buzz/no fuel/no start could be: had to be the fuel pump relay. Sure enough, it was buzzing like crazy. I opened it up and reflowed 4 bad solder points, but it still doesn't work, and continues to buzz. I will see if I have a spare in my culch heap in the morning.
JD

Looks like I may be talking to myself here tonight, but I have another question regarding the relay. I found a used relay in my parts pile, but it does the same buzzing s the first one. Now, there is nothing to say that this second one is any good or not, but assuming it it good, could there be anything in the engine wire harness that, if reassembled incorrectly, would cause the fuel pump relay to buzz and not close?
Thanks
JD

You can remove the relay and jump the sockets on the relay board. I just don't recall which two sockets need to be jumped. Hopefully someone can chime in that knows. Maybe you have a wiring diagram.......

When you installed the engine, were you cognizant of the position of the tone ring so that the crank position sensor would click in correct time?

Chris, I manually forced the contacts closed on the FP relay so that the fuel pump ran, and the engine seemed to want to start but just wouldn't quite catch. Once or twice it ran, haltingly, for a few seconds, then quit.
As to the tone ring, I can only say that I was very careful to install it while at TDC on number one, and the gap in the ring was visible in the starter hole. I believe that that is the correct process, but perhaps you could confirm.

Hello,

Yes the blanked-out (no hole) tone ring should be visible at starter's opening.

This means when the engine spins clockwise, looking from the timing belt end, the CPS encounters this blank at 12 degrees BTDC. And spark occurs. By TDC the blank is already at starter's opening.

That's how I see it.

Check back the tone ring on your old engine to confirm.

Regards,
Amarin.

It is not possible to check the old one, as I used the flywheel assy on this new block. However, before taking it off the old block it was marked for correct reassembly. I can only assume that I did things correctly.
I believe the issue is with fuel delivery. For some reason the fuel pumps are not delivering correctly, mainly due either to a faulty fuel pump relay or bad electrical delivery to that relay.
I found an old thread from maybe 2007 for a 1986(?) 240 which had an identical issue. Bruce young (lucid) kept referring to a 25 amp spade fuse on that car, that needed to be checked for good connection, and that fed contact 30 on the FP relay. Does anyone know if the 940 also has this inline fuse?
Thanks!
JD

I believe you have the tone ring aligned correctly. Also, the 940 does not have the same 25 amp fuse that confounds the 240 owners.

Have you checked all of the fuses?

Do you hear the fuel pumps run for a second or two when you first turn on the ignition? (before cranking the starter)

Got spark?

Are the spark plugs getting wet?

Chris
Fuel pumps work only when I force the relay points closed (new relay arrives tomorrow). And they do not cycle, they stay running because I have forced the points.
Plugs definitely wet because of this. I will try reflowing these old relays again to see it it makes any difference. As I said, i did this once, and the relay continues to buzz (ie does not cycle open and closed properly).
I'll pull the relay and fuse boards out and check connections.
JD

I would be checking for spark since you said the plugs are wet. Obvious question was this a "running" engine you put in?
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Post Back. That's whats makes this forum work.

Aleekat; This is a "new" 93 engine I am installing. It is a very low mileage B230ft that was torn down and freshened by an Indy Volvo shop in Kelowna maybe 10 years ago. It may have had 30K on it when it was redone. It has been sitting on a rack ever since. In other words, never run since rebuilt.
JD

This is important information. After you verify spark, squirt a couple of teaspoons of oil in the spark plug holes. Even if the rebuild included assembly lube it is very likely you do not have enough oils in the cylinders to coat the walls to make compression.

Thats a good idea, I will do that, although I have been watching the OP gauge while cranking and I see it gets to 20psi within a few cranks.
JD

All of you fuses are together there in the center console. The 240 had a 1960's fuse block with the 1980's electrical requirements so those moved the FI fuse into the engine bay.

I cannot say for sure but I believe your car still has the cold start injector. If it does, I believe that injector's plug can inadvertently be swapped with the IAC...but this is a way hazy memory of on older thread.

I was pretty careful to tape and identify each connector plug when I pulled the old engine, but it is certainly worth double checking. And yes, there is a cold start injector. Right above the IAC. Thanks!
JD