Long story short, I stripped the drain threads on my oil pan about 3 years ago, and I replaced my oil pan to resolve that issue.

While I had the oil pan removed, I decided to replace the two 20 year old seals on the oil supply line that connects the oil pump to the engine block.

Recently, my oil light started to come on, once my car was at operating temperature and at idle, so I decided to remove the oil pan, on a hunch that the oil seal that I had replaced previously had worked its way loose. Once I removed the oil pan, I was able to confirm that was the issue.

Just like in the photos on Art Benstein's Web site, the new oil seal was pushed out of the engine block (but not ripped) and that causing my oil light to come on.

Here's where the "Learn from my experience" comes into play.

I know that I did a good job replacing the oil seal, and I am not sure why it slipped out of place. Not wanted to do this 6 hour job AGAIN, I decided to clean the oil tube completely and apply JB Weld to the tube AND to the inside of the oil seals. I mounted new seals on both ends, and let them set a full day, to fully cure.

Since we just had a major ice storm in Dallas, it was a week before I was able to install the part, and put my car back together. While I had time to think about this, I decided that since there was adequate space in the engine block to accommodate two oil seals, I added a second oil seal to that part of the oil delivery tube.

I made sure that I cleaned off all excess epoxy, and also made sure that the parts of the oil seal that were going to make contact with the oil pump and the engine block were clean as well. Once the epoxy had fully cured, I checked the oil seals, and they were firmly adhered to the oil delivery tube.

I coated the outside of the seals with motor oil, and slid them into place, then reassembled my car.

I took two test drives last night, and no oil light after the initial start up. In addition, no issues on the drive to work nor on the trip back home.

I did have an issue with having enough space to re-install the oil pan, and once I jacked up the transmission about 1/2 an inch, the oil pan was easily installed.

Thanks again, to Art, for his online oil pan pictorial.


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If it needs to be maintained, repaired or replaced on a 1990 240, I've probably done it. '90 240DL, 348,259 miles, will she make it to 400K ?? >>You haven't really worked on a car until you draw blood<< :-}