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rear caliper broken bolt pickle 900 1995

Well. . . I have managed to get myself in a real pickle trying to repair the rear brakes on my 940. One of the two bolts holding the caliper to the axle housing broke off clean and for the last three days on and off I have been trying to extract the remains of the bolt from the housing, all to no avail.

I have used PB Blaster, and various other fluids, drilled the bolt through from side to side, heated it with a propane torch, re-drilled using a larger bit,hit it with various drifts and am still coming up empty.

Part of the problem is that I cannot get straight on with my drill because of the axle housing's proximity to my power drill [the dust shield is no help either but I have been able to wire it up out of the way]. Thus the hole in the stub is not straight. This makes my efforts to use an 'easy-out' very tentative. I have broken these things off in previous efforts and now am very cautious about their use.

I am thinking of removing the axle half-shaft so that I can get a straight on approach to the bolt stub but don't know what kinds of problems I would be opening up. I had a look around the Brickboard but still am tentative about this action.

I am considering having the car towed to a local machine shop as a last gap measure.

Any ideas you might have would be appreciated.








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    rear caliper broken bolt pickle 900 1995

    in cases like that the first order thing you do is remove everything in the way of you and a straight line to your problem.

    the axle half shaft removal is no big deal as long as you careful not to damage the seal as you remove it and make sure half the bearing doesn't come loose.

    once its out its a straight line to stud removal.

    the mechanic will likely do it this way.








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    rear caliper broken bolt pickle 900 1995

    If the flange where the caliper bolts to is open at the far end maybe the remainder of the bolt can be screwed in rather than out. The only bolt extractor I've ever seen work consistently well is the Snap-On type. You drill a hole to a specific diameter and straight "rod" with ridges along its length gets driven in--then a hex shaped "nut" with a star shaped hole in the middle (to match the ridges) slips over the rod and gets turned by a wrench or socket-- works in either direction. -- Dave








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      rear caliper broken bolt pickle 900 1995

      Hello Heck,

      Thanks for your thoughts. This might have worked a little earlier on when I was coming in fairly straight on the stub. Now, however, I have managed to make a hole through the stud that is not straight and I am worried that the physics of such an extractor would not work out well [i.e. the extractor will break off if I put too much torque on it]. I had to drill around the axle and this forced me to go in on an angle instead of straight on. I am going to see the resident machinist sometime today and see what he has to say.








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        threw in the towel 900 1995

        I'm having the car towed to the machinist's shop tomorrow. He can't guarantee anything given the damage I have inflicted on the bolt but he will give it a try. Just keeping my fingers crossed that he can extract it without damage to the axle housing. I have promised him the whole brake job if he wants it. Then he will have enough work to make the project worthwhile for him.

        You can't win them all it would seem and broken studs and bolts have been my downfall in past excursions into automobile repair.








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          threw in the towel 900 1995

          Dear muskox37,

          Hope you're well. You're correct: some jobs simply need the tools/insights of a full-time, well-experienced pro.

          A good way to limit disassembly risks is repeatedly to saturate bolts and nuts with PB Blaster or a similar penetrating oil. Given time, these oils find their way along micro-channels in the corrosion, and can weaken the corrosion bond betweent the fastener and the surrounding metal (if a bolt) or between stud and nut.

          When seeking to remove nuts from a stud, it is helpful to remove all corrosion from the exposed part of the stud. Doing this eases the entry of penetrating oil. Further, the more of the stud that is "clean" of corrosion, the easier it is to turn-off the nut. That reduces stress on the stud.

          It also is helpful - after penetrating oils have had a chance to work (daily saturations for several days may be needed) - to micro-tighten the nut or bolt, before trying to loosen it. Rarely are nuts/bolts tightened to the point where a .001" (one thousandth of an inch) movement will shear the bolt's head or the end of the stud. Thus, a slight tightening movement starts the process of freeing the frozen fastener. Then, one can then make a similarly-small but opposite movement, i.e., one should move the wrench in the other direction. If there's no give, apply more penetrating oil and wait.

          All these things done, there are fasteners that will have to be drilled-out. Yours may have been one of those.

          Hope this helps.

          Yours faithfully,

          Spook








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            threw in the towel 900 1995

            Thanks again Spook. I did give this bolt a lot of applications of Liquid Wrench and a solution of "tiger piss" [mix of transmission fluid and acetone as I remember] before I found out that I could buy PB Blaster at my local Canadian Tire store. This was before the bolt was broken.

            After it was broken and I was trying to drill it out I used PB Blaster on several occasions, to no apparent effect.

            I tried heating with a propane torch but probably could not get enough heat to the stub and its surround. I asked a local mobile welder if he could come by and put some real heat on it but he didn't think it would make much of a difference. Maybe I should have pursued this line of thought a little more than I did.

            Lesson learned. If the bolt/stud breaks take it immediately to a professional.








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              threw in the towel 900 1995

              Dear muskox37,

              Hope you're well. Applying high heat - i.e., using an acetylene torch - to the stub axle could soften the steel, eventually leading to a fracture, and the wheel unit separating from the vehicle. A propane torch is not likely to have led to any damage to the unit.

              The machine shop should be able to drill-out the stub, without damaging the threads. The work will take longer, because your efforts created an angled hole. A sharp bit, slowly advanced into the workpiece, will allow a stud remover to be inserted. Alternatively, drilling can remove enough of the broken stud, so that a tap can be used "to chase" the threads, removing the last of the broken stud. In the worst case, the hole can be drilled out and re-tapped, which will require use of a slightly-larger bolt.

              Hope this helps.

              Yours faithfully,

              Spook








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                threw in the towel 900 1995

                Hello again Spook,

                Thank you for that bit of information. Perhaps my welder friend knew that and that is why he advised against such an action. I am waiting for the tow truck to arrive at the moment. Happy at least that I did not proceed with strong heat. I am just hoping the machinist can get enough room to work effectively on the stub.

                Really appreciate your interest and advice.







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