In my efforts to solve a no start/stalling problem over the past month I have done the following:
Replaced accordion hose
Replace vacuum brake hose and installed new booster check valve
Installed new power stage, fuel pressure regulator, intake manifold gasket and crank position sensor
Cleaned idle air control valve
Checked OBD with an “all clear” result.
I have thoroughly checked and rechecked for vacuum leaks and have found none.
Other than the throttle body, what else could be the cause? The car runs better, but it frequently needs to crank a lot with some pumping on the gas pedal to get started. Especially when warm.
Thanks for your input.

the response so far are spot on. As I recall, my 240 no-starts over the years have been. Most recent listed first:

25A fuse holder. The fuse was fine but the holder was providing intermittent contact. I strongly strongly recommend you pick up a waterproof inline blade fuse holder and replace it as Dan mentioned.

Wet / dirty distrib cap. I parked facing into a headwind, it then started to snow and the cap got wet. Cap and rotor is so cheap for this car there is no reason not to do it every other year.

Fuel system relay - as discussed ad nauseam on this board the solder joints crack etc, etc... re-flow solder or replace; Stribel brand is recommended

The Rube Goldberg fuse panel. Remove, clean fuses and terminals, replace any suspect fuses.

Note that not one of these repairs costs over $45.

what about spark plugs?




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'90 245 290k, '93 945 296k

You should never have to pump the gas pedal to start a 240 or crank more than a couple of turns of the engine. What is the condition of the cap, rotor, plugs, and ignition wires? Old and or non Bosch, Bougicord, or NGK parts need to go.

Did you check for OBD codes in socket 6?

Clean the throttle body, replace gasket and clean all associated fittings / holes for the vacuum hoses and flame trap assembly.

Clean fuse holders and slightly tighten them to insure good firm fit. Replace fuses with copper ones.

Make sure the 25 amp fuse, holder and connection to the battery is tight and corrosion free. For $6 or so you can replace the fuse holder with a weather sealed marine unit. You can splice this into the harness but use a new connector at the battery.

Replace or re-solder the fuel system relay.

Dan

Yes to all of this!

I really would focus on the fuses and the fuel pump relay.

A comprehensive "fuse box service" should be the start of about any troubleshooting scenario. This includes removing all fuses, cleaning the ends, cleaning the clips, retensioning the clips, and replacing all non-copper-and-ceramic fuses. The bullet style fuses are a near constant source of problems for 240 owners and the condition of a fuse or its holder cannot be assessed with the fuse installed...period (ever see a fuse with the ends completely eroded off?).

The 25 amp fuse holder has also created many a crank-and-no-start situation.

The fuel pump relay probably would have been my first suspect when I had a stall and no-start.

The last, and distant, possibility because I have not known it to cause intermittent issues, is a failed ecu. Any ecu with a colored label from that era is suspect. Jumpering the fuses to run the fuel pump is a good diagnostic (see cleanflametrap.com for the paperclip jumper).