This thread evolved from my starting weirdness of last month, My lower back is fused, and is occasionally uncooperative to my needs outside of work, so somethings just take longer than they should
I got the transmission out and cleaned up, found that this is definitely not a 164, 122 or 145 all of which i have done clutch work on at one time or another.
The small parts are just beating me stupid. First it was the bushings and O rings for the shifter now I have the retaining spring on the clutch fork is flaccid and won't stay put.
Then there is the question of the clutch kit.
I have a clutch kit for my 82 240 DL (IPD #101586) but their website says to use the #101587 for the85-87. I asked a sale person, and he said the difference was in the flywheel, but didn't have the particulars for it as to what it might be.
I've had the kit out of the box, and it looks like everything goes where it's supposed to be, but i'd really rather not find out "the hard way"
Anybody have any clue as to where I can find a clutch for retainer spring (or what ever it's called).
I have also realized I can no longer bench press a transmission and install it, like i used to, so I broke down and bought a Trans jack from Harbor Fright (#39178) for $80, it's a scissors jack w/o a lot of unnecessary frills but looks like it will do O.K..
I don't want to start pulling parts off of the 82, if I start doing that I ne'er get it fixed.
Any opinions and suggestions are welcome
Paul

Ruby's tires are on the ground. I bypassed the grey mess at the firewall to just get her started. She fired right up and there were no visible signs of hemorrhaging fluids .
The down side is the clutch cable is adjusted out to it's maximum and the clutch pedal is pretty much at the floor.
I will detail the pilgrims progress soon as I get her up and out of the driveway. So may be I can save someone the time it took me to figure this out.
Any and all bright ideas are appreciated.
Thanks to every one who has contributed to this project.
Paul

Ruby made the 42 mile circuit to and from work w/o a hitch except for being loud (i only have the front part of the exhaust hanging on her) So I went to El Mofle this a.m. and had the guy put the car up on the lift, and welded the rest of her exhaust together. Took him about ten minutes and I gave him $20 for it.
The shifter is tight and accurate, the clutch is happy, clean and smooth. The rear main seal shows no signs of exploding, the overdrive works but the backup lights are on.
I am questioning the PEP Boys starter, as the solenoid sound unlike the snappy Bosch starters and sometime take two or three clicks of the key to get it to spin enough to actually do anything.
Easter sunday is close at hand and I believe The Santa Fe Springs Ecology center has a twofer on that day, might be time to do some shopping.
I still really have no idea of what was eating my starters,and causing the no start.I am going to write up a detailed account of my "Life under a Volvo", might save someone some grief.
I removed the grey four wire connector and rerouted the wires, using high temp stainless core wire.
See you in a couple of days with a link to the repair details.
Happy Easter, or what ever version of the Spring fertility Goddess rights you care to carry on.
Paul

the clutch cable is new from IPD. I have had no problems with cables from them.
Any ideas on adjusting the adjjustment?

Somebody gave me this link:

http://www.volvotips.com/

Covers service manuals from the PVs to the 850s, and the parts catalogues from the 122s to the 87 240s.

I got this link from the parts manger @ Power South Bay Volvo this morning.
GCP.se
I drove out there this morning and my parts hadn't made it onto the van. So they arranged for their driver to deliver them to my house this afternoon.
The site is in various languages so click the red, white and blue globe unless you have another language preference.

Grabbed the parts manual this morning, looked up the clutch assy, i was after, called O.C Volvo and the parts guy verified that the numbers were good but they didn't have them.
Called South Bay Volvo, and lo an behold they have the parts @ their warehouse, and they will be there for me tomorrow morning.
I just didn't want to wait another two weeks waiting for this one little part.
2-5 days to find and pull the part then how ever long it's going to take for it to get here from there.
I might cancel the order, or I might just sit on the parts and wait till someone here needs it.
The parts list was a great idea and someone invested a great deal of time, in the project.
Thanks again.
Paul

If my memory serves me, there is a difference in some of these mid 80's models that involves a different spline count on the transmission input shaft.
I can't remember exactly which transmissions were involved, but it seems like it was a difference between the 4 speed with OD and the true 5 speed transmission.
It's been a really long time (25 years+) since I experienced this, but that's the only difference that I remember between the two clutch kits.
If I'm wrong....someone will correct me.

steve

the 87 true five speed introduce changes ( on the 740 side of the family) so the fly wheel, changed as did the clutch components, not sure what all was involved in the change up
I'd really like an M47 5 speed short throw. Actually what I'd like is a 1990 740 turbo, with an M47.But I would seriously consider one one for my 86 240.
Let's see when the parts get here, and I can get Ruby's feet back on the ground.
Thanks fo all of your input.
Paul

how do i attach pictures to a message?
I use Amazon cloud drive

every picture tells a story


https://www.amazon.com/clouddrive/share?s=0iVcrLK8QnsphiFtYnAIgU

This a picture of the retainer in question, in-situ it is however no longer strong enough to hold the c/f in place
I know it's possible to attach pictures to messages , I've seen it done.
All of your help is sorely needed and greatly appreciated.
Paul

Looks like the later style one. Does it look like this:

http://s3.amazonaws.com/fcp-product-photography-us/public/assets/products/33116/large/1220762.JPG?1295893992


Here's what a earlier one looks like:

http://s3.amazonaws.com/fcp-product-photography-us/public/assets/products/32664/large/1212189.jpg?1295275859

Your looking for part number 1377132 (lock spring)for $2.86 and can be found here:

http://www.volvopartswebstore.com/products/Lock-spring/1207490/1377132.html

Paul

That was the one, part's in the mail.
I looked at The web store, but apparently didn't drill down far enough. This helps a lot.
Now all i have to do is decide if the 82 and 86 parts are compatible.
I will post links to pictures of the 82 versus the 86 parts later on today.
If push comes to shove, and there really is a significant difference, i will just replace the clutch disk and release bearing.
Thank-you again for you diligent search,and the helping hand.
Paul

Well, the case isn't definitely closed, but the clutch parts I have are identical per Sachs p/n to what was in there.
So either the previous mechanics either,changed the flywheel (?) or knew, that the parts were interchangeable. At any rate Now I'm waiting for the parts from the online Volvo store, and we are back in business.
I wasn't having any trouble with the clutch, but i had to know if the flywheel was mangled, from having eaten two starters. There was also a visible oil leak from the rear main bearing seal,And coolant leaks i would not have seen till they became a real problem.
How would i identify a 1982 240 fly wheel, from a later one?
Now I wait.
thanks as always.
I'll let you know if anything else falls apart in my hand.
Paul

To the best of my knowledge, upto '87, all the flywheels for the 240 (B21/23/230)used flat flywheels that are interchangeable with each other.

In '87, the flywheels became a step style flywheel. It was also the first year for the M47 transmission. The clutch was also increased to an 9" from the 8.5".

'85 was the first year for the different clutch fork/TO bearing.

I used a pre '85 clutch fork/TO bearing on a '86 B230/M46 without a problem. Actually, I like the earlier clutch forks over the later ones.

Paul

So I've got to beg the question , what's with all the parts people giving me a line of B.S.?
I understand. that parts people sell parts, part two of the equation says i buy from people who know what they are talking about, to save me the endless hours of discovery.

Segue
There used to be a place round where I lived where truth and certainty were an every day thing. I paid a little more but I figured it was the price I paid for their years of experience. I knew when i walked out that door that, I had the right part, and that I would be back, when I needed to get my car back on the road.
So if all other things are equal in this with the exception of the clutch fork attachment to the bell housing, this would leave the release bearing as the difference in this arrangement. Or perhaps the clutch fork's design forces the introduction of another model of release bearing.
Thank-you very much for the clarification.

It's a bitch getting old
But it beats the heck out of the alternatives
Thanks, Paul

Are you having problems with "rebuilt" starters or used OEM Bosch starters?

I never have any luck with "rebuilt" starters. Actually, I never put a "rebuilt" starter in my own Volvos, and only had to change the starters out twice in the 30+ years of owning Volvos (that's quite a few over the years), but I worked in a Volvo shop when I was in college, and we changed out a few "rebuilt" starters with good used Bosch ones. Never had a problem with the used ones.

Paul

I believe the problem is in the deteriorating wiring, (which actually is minimal)where the starter is staying engaged, and is being over driven by the flywheel. Or hangs out and its teeth look like a Montangard's
The starters I had go south were OEM probably came with the car.
Paul

I would try to adjust the lines of that spring with a pair of pliers and see if I could tighten it up some.
It is possible to heat it with a butane torch and give it a small contour adjustment.
At that point, I would heat it up cherry red and quench it in cold water.

Just my opinion
steve

I will see what annealing this thing will do, although I have a part on order , it would be a good thing to know, for those awkward times when, things go south, and improvisation is everything.
Thanks for the thought. Good show
Paul

Are you talking about this:

http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/volvo-clutch-return-spring-1228794

It's so cheap that I think it's a common spring you can get at the hardware store, but never actual went to check it out since I always make sure I have a couple of these around when I order other stuff from these guys.

Paul

No. The retaining spring I am speaking of is inside the bell housing, at the far end of the lever where the lever attaches to the ball on the interior.
i will post pictures tomorrow, as i have finally secured a cloud site (free from Amazon)."
I still see no differences in the , clutch disk, pressure plate or release bearing. Doesn't mean there isn't one.
But for now w/o being able to secure the clutch fork inside the bell housing I'm not going anywhere except to junk yards to fins an M 45 or 46
I will research, more into the usage of the 82 Sachs clutch parts with the 86 Sachs clutch parts.
Thanks as always
Paul

I think the only difference in the clutch kit is the throwout bearing.

The early clutch forks have a captured ball joint (thru '84), and the later ones have a clip that holds the ball joint ('85-on).

Sounds like somebody changed the clutch fork on your car to the later fork style. Check to see if you can install the throwout bearing on the fork. From what I remember, the earlier throwout bearing won't fit on the later forks.

Paul

i want to use the 82 parts in an 86 and see no easily discernible difference.
I've fit the input shaft on the clutch plate, just to make sure. The spline count, and disk is the same as i've checked it on, a couple of different web sites.
I'm going to take pictures of the clutch fork and the offending retainer. Maybe that will help things along. I really don't want to spend $100 on a new clutch fork for a 25 cent spring, OTOH finding Manual 240's or 740's at a pick-a-part is becoming increasingly difficult.
If I start scrounging parts from my 82, it's as good a dead. In one piece I can still have the hope of having the time to figure out why it won't start, It's a really pretty car and would make a good extra. For as long as i can remember we have had a his, hers and a spare, so i don't get caught short when a repair takes weeks instead of hours to complete,
Anyone in the LosAngeles area knows of a scrap yard with manual 240s 0r 740's, or maybe if there is a clutch fork in your garage, i can talk you out of.
I'd really like to get this done.
Thanks as always
Paul