Well, this post will show my ignorance*** I will be putting in another AMM soon- removing the old one and installing the “new” one seems like a "piece of cake" but my question is: is there supposed to be something you have to "adjust" when installing a “new” AMM or is it just basically “plug and play”?

Been a long time. Thanks.

When we had the AMM replaced on our '88 745 GLE I was told that it would need to be started and run a number of times in order for the car to trim it - it did seem to run fine after a week or so.

A couple of years later I found that one of the pins in the connector was bad and the old AMM was fine.
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'96 855R,'64 PV544 driver, '67 P1800 basket case, '72 Yamaha Rd400, '68 Honda 350-4, '12 XC70, the first 5 are mine, heh, heh, 525,000 miles put on 10 bricks James A Sousa

Yes, the pins can break in the connecting plug. Sometimes they are just bent and can be carefully straightened. That was the case with my 240. Saved me from buying an AMM...:)

There is an adjustment, but it occurs automatically since 1989, run by the ECU. When you replace your AMM, momentarily remove the 25A blade fuse. This will reset your ECU so it can erase the fuel trim applied to your old AMM and relearn it from your new AMM.

One important detail, replacing the AMM, is to get the "twist" correct on the corrugated hose leading from it to the throttle body. If it isn't set right, when you tighten the hose clamp, the hose will rub on the inner fender or a starter cable once the motor gets to vibrating it. That will cause a small hole in it, and your idle will rise from the false, unmetered air. Make sure there is the optimum clearance between the hose and other objects.


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Art Benstein near Baltimore

Grandchildren are God's reward for not killing your own children.

Check your model #s.

Do not do the swap with the key in the ignition.

Nothing to adjust, I screw down the body mount and then tighten up the airbox and intake tube straps so there is no stress those pieces.
Dan