It looks like I'm going to have to replace my cylinder head - it was so pitted and the cooling channels so blocked that even after drilling out the hardened mess, the cost of refurbishing it at the local shop was equal to that of getting a completely rebuilt one on eBay.

So the replacement is on its way - but of course has none of the accompanying studs. I figured I'd just get all new ones, but I can only find those for the exhaust online. I still need studs for the intake manifold, thermostat housing, valve cover, and the timing tensioner. Does anyone know where to find these?

None of the studs on the old head are broken, so I guess I could transfer them if I had a way to get them out of there. Anyone have a technique for removing un-broken studs?

Thanks!

Just wanted to say thanks to everyone for all the advice. Used tons of PBlaster, took my time, and managed to remove and re-use every single stud with the two nut technique. They're in amazingly good condition, considering the car is almost 20 years old! Can't wait for my new head to come in so I can finish the job....

!!Disclaimer !! I heard about this tip from a friend but havent had the opportunity to try it out:

Heat up the stud thoroughly with a tourch and then touch a candle to the stud right where it enters the block. Apparently the wax will wick down into the threads and removal is a breeze. Dunno

IF not, PBlaster does wonders.

Wedge two nuts together and use the impact on low setting to break loose some of the corrosion.

Use gentle back and forth motions with hand tools. Not full on gorilla force.

--
'90 245 258k, '93 945 241k

...touch a candle to the stud...

I've done this with success as recently as last month.

For the OP, who wants to save the unbroken studs from the old head, this may apply as well. The double-nut means of grabbing the stud without damaging the threads can be combined with the flame wrench if the stud seems like it wants to twist more than break free of the aluminum. So much of this is feel is experience-based (meaning mistakes are needed to create experience) it may yet be necessary to look up the part numbers on some of those studs, especially the M6 studs.

Wedge two nuts together and use the impact on low setting to break loose some of the corrosion.

Let me expand on this a bit. The impact must be applied only to one of the two nuts (as Chuck explained) so the sort of impact I use is whacking a combination wrench with a light rubber mallet. Again, experience will teach you how hard or how swift to whack, and when it's time to change direction.

--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

Back in the 1800's the Tate's Watch Company of Massachusetts wanted to produce other products, and since they already made the cases for watches, they used them to produce compasses. The new compasses were so bad that people often ended up in Canada or Mexico rather than California . This, of course, is the origin of the expression,..."He who has a Tate's is lost!"

2 nuts, jammed together. remove by wrenching on the bottom nut, install by wrenching on the top. a little heat and lotsa wd40 helps. good luck, chuck.

Thanks for the tip! I'll give that a shot.

Broken off exhaust studs .....Helicoil for replacement?

These suggestions are worth following.

I followed Brickboard suggestion on a similar problem with success. I have to replace the head and/or head gasket on my beloved Ocean 940. I wanted to be sure I was getting water in the cylinder(s). The first step was to remove the spark plugs. Could they have been grossly over tightened or is it just to be expected that they will tighten up over time. Wow! I knew if I went at them with force I'd break them. But someone on Brickboard said, PB blaster as many as 30 days and heating the engine up and down. I followed that regimen and finally removed the plugs after about 10 days. I was very conservative. As soon as I encountered resistance, I stopped, PB'd and waited another day.

Bob Franklin