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Ignition Module preventive maintenance 200

Hi guys!

I just bought a new Bosch 0-227-100-124 ignition module to have as a backup. I decided to clean it up and use it on my car and then re-build my old one to have on-hand just in case. I know that these can occasionally fail, and my intuition with all things electronic is that the usual cause of failure is due to excessive heat. To prevent that from happening, I applied some fresh thermal grease between the module and the heatsink.

From my computer building experience, thermal grease is supposed to only last a few years before it dries itself up and forms voids where heat can't be conducted away. If it only lasts a few years on a computer, it can't be good to leave it in place on a car for 20 years - hence burned-up electronics! So for you guys out there that want an easy project to take on when you get bored sometime, here goes:






You'll need the following materials on hand:
- acetone, denatured alcohol, or at least 90% isoproyl alcohol
- paper towels (bounty are best)
- 400 grit wet/dry sandpaper
- (optional) a 1" x 2" plywood block or a sanding tee with some spray adhesive
- flat-blade screwdriver
- 10mm socket w/ 1/4" drive ratchet and 3" extension
- silicone dielectric grease
- plastic-safe electronics cleaner (or contact cleaner, but make sure it's safe on plastics)
- Arctic Silver 5 thermal grease (available at any computer store)

1) Remove the module from inside the left front fender, just behind the battery under the hood by removing the 2 screws holding the module's heatsink to the inner fender.
2) Push the wire retainer in on the electrical connector and slide off the connector. Don't pull on the wires, just grab hold of the body of the connector and gently wiggle it off.
3) On the bench, remove the two screws holding the module to the heatsink. These are the ones you'll need to use a flat-blade screwdriver for.
4) Gently pry apart the module and heatsink being careful not to damage or distort the module itself.
5) You'll now see what's left of the white thermal grease. Clean this off thoroughly using acetone and a paper towel. You can also use denatured alcohol or isopropyl alcohol, but avoid using laquer thinner or you may melt the plastic. Clean both the module base and the heatsink base.
6) You may notice some pitting or corrosion on the base of the heatsink. Clean this off using some 400 grit 3M wet/dry sandpaper (Use 600 grit if you only have cheapo sandpaper). Don't go overboard, you don't want to round off the face of the heatsink. If you want to go the distance, you can get more material off the right way by sticking your sandpaper onto a flat piece of plywood or a genuine sanding tee or block.
7) Clean the surface you just sanded with acetone and a paper towel again. Let it dry.
8) Apply a bead of Arctic Silver 5 thermal grease to the base of the module. You can smear it flat using your finger (gently) and then apply another bead ontop of that, but I think one continuous bead across the base should be enough.
9) Fit the module back onto the heatsink noting the positioning pins on the module and corresponding holes in the heatsink.
10) Install the two module retaining screws (I used a drop of blue threadlocker/loctite but these have lockwashers already). Slowly tighten down each side until the module is firmly seated.
11) You'll see that the excess thermal grease has squeezed its way out around the perimeter - leave it in place because it will act to keep water out and prevent more pitting in the future.
12) Reinstall the module and heatsink assembly on the car.
13) Clean the pins of the connector with some aerosol plastic-safe electronics cleaner. Shake out the connector and let it dry a minute or so.
14) Use a little bit of dielectric grease on the connector pins and around the shell of the connector to keep moisture out. To keep from getting a bad connection at this point, I like to "make and break" the connector a few times (install & remove) to clean up the excess dielectric grease and ensure positive contact.

There you go! You now have tuned up your ignition module. What a good excuse to work on your brick some more, eh?

Steve









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New 1 Ignition Module preventive maintenance [200]
posted by  AOG  on Mon Apr 4 15:42 CST 2011 >


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