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I'm having an intermittent problem with the CEL comes on when going down the highway. Engine code 2-3-1. I'm not sure how to diagnose this. It seems it could be an air leak, low fuel pressure, or the O2 sensor. It came on a few times about 8 months ago, then nothing, then about 5 times in the last month. The O2 sensor was replaced about 18 months ago. And the fuel filter was replaced about 4 months ago.
And now, the last two times it has thrown this code, I reset the ECU by pulling the 25amp fuse and go to start the car and it won't turn over. The first time this happened, i was driving down the highway, pulled off, reset and no start. As i contemplated calling a tow, i tried again after about 30 min and it started. So, i guessed it might have been flooded, which made sense in my head if it was in limp-home mode and running rich (I could be way off here).
however, it came on again last night and i decided to drive the 30 miles home and deal with it this morning. so, before starting the car, i went ahead and reset the ECU. and no start.
I have a mechanic who can look at it, but he's 80 miles away, and I'd love to drive the car to him rather than tow.
If anyone has any ideas about how to proceed, i'd appreciate it very much.
Thanks!
Shane
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Hi Shane,
If I were in your shoes, I'd trust my sniffer. Rich does sound like the issue, although the explanations for those codes "rich or lean when..." are maddening, when we know the computer could have told us which.
What you can do now, while the no-start persists (or immediately after next time) is pull each of the spark plugs and check for fuel. Look at the color of the deposits on the insulator. Sniff the oil dipstick too. Notice whether it seems to be fuller than you expected. With the motor off, check for fuel in the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum line.
It will probably start once again, if you wait. Take a whiff at the tailpipe to see if it smells fuely rich. Then 80 miles to your mechanic only if you've made certain the excess gasoline is not dumping into your crankcase; otherwise change the oil immediately.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
Because it gets late early., on why it's so tough to play left field in Yankee stadium.
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Hi Art,
Thanks so much. and yes, i'm smiling through this!
Oil level looks normal. had it changed a couple of months ago and its still registering half way up the dipstick. Didn't smell like fuel. Also didn't notice fuel at the fuel pressure regulator vacuum line.
I was able to pull the first plug and the slight deposits were brownish/tan. When I went to pull the second plug, the wire harness separated and was left stuck to the plug. So, now i've got that issue to resolve before proceeding.
I'm also wondering if the ignition wires could cause the CEL and then the no start. The reason i ask is the first time I had a no start roadside, after waiting awhile, I checked all the wires pulled some, jiggled some...just making sure things were secure. and that's when it started again. Probably just a coincidence...
Hopefully with the a new set of wires, I can get it to the mechanic.
Thanks!
Shane
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Now it sounds like maybe the ignition tune-up will account for everything. A misfiring plug or two might have the oxygen sensor telling the fuel computer the mixture is too rich. I've been pretty lucky with plugs and wires, I guess, and haven't much experience with the way the LH2.4 car responds or complains of a weak spark.
It does bring back a memory of a no-start road call on my daughter's B23F ten years ago: The resistor in the distributor's rotor had opened up. That was the day I discovered the Bosch rotors had built-in resistors. I suppose, depending on a lot of (moisture) factors, it would probably work some times jumping the gap.
How's the fuel economy been through this?
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
"I never really said all those things I said."
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Thanks. I'll go ahead and replace cap/rotor/plugs/wires and see where I'm at. I've noticed a few times when driving in town the slightest hesitation on acceleration at times...almost imperceptible, but I've drivin the car for 8 years and have developed a sixth sense about when something feels different. that could be in line with all this, too, yes?
I took a road trip in July and got about 37mpg. Unfortunately, my trip reset button long ago stopped working, and I haven't been disciplined to write down mileage between fill ups, but i'll start tracking to see how i'm doing.
From what i've been able to browse on the forum, you're pretty much a Brickboard institution, and now i see why. Thanks for your responsiveness and clarity. I really appreciate it.
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I agree with your plan, although I can't pin your hesitation symptom on it from experience. On the other hand, the reset of the computer's fuel trim has induced that hesitation, and sometimes the need for starting it twice before the learning period has completed.
After breaking more odometer gears than I needed to break to document the replacement process, I stopped using the trip buttons on the electronic speedos. I write the mileage on the gas receipt (habit forming) and collect them in a box, figuring one day I could go back through them and do another spreadsheet if I needed to. But I never will, having already done that once. But I asked about the mileage anyway, as it can be an indicator things are going well. The only way I'd get 37 is to track it only downhill from Denver maybe. 26 is more like what I get on trips.
Post back with the results. If the weather was hotter it almost sounds like the symptoms another daughter had when the tank pump failed.
--
Art Benstein near Baltimore
And his most famous quote of all. . . "It ain't over till it's over."
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Get the good stuff Bosch cap, rotor, copper plugs and Bougicord wires.
Dan
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Ok, had a friend bring me new plugs/rotor/cap/wires.
And, he helped me to discover that there is no spark. when I tried to start the car, no spark at the coil or any of the plugs.
Not sure what to do next. (other than call a tow truck!)
Thanks,
Shane
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A good place to start is the 25 amp fuse near the battery and the fuel system relay.
http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1432123/220/240/260/280/240_fuel_delivery_issues.html
Dan
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OK, so, i swapped out the 25AMP fuse with a new one and it started! Visually, the fuse i pulled out looks fine. Not sure why a new, different fuse made the difference, but that's just fine by me.
And it makes sense that I had the no start problem after monkeying with this fuse to turn off the CEL. and thus it could be the no start issue is separate from the CEL problem?
Thanks for your help. I can now get it to a mechanic who can hopefully help out with the CEL.
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From your linked post:
*****
Before you spend any more $$, try starting again with a jumper wire between the LEFT side fuse 4 and 6 contacts. That will run both pumps, while bypassing the 25AMP fuse near the coil and the Fuel relay.
Note that the pumps should as soon as the 4-6 jumper is in place. Let them run for a few seconds to fill the fuel system before you try starting.
*****
is this what I should try? I'm unclear about the sequence. Attach jumper for a few seconds, then do I leave the jumper in place and start? Or do I remove the jumper before starting.
Thanks!
shane
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You want to place a jumper wire on the left side of the fuses and leave it in place, this will force the fuel pumps to run. If the engine starts the fuel system relay needs replacing.
The 25 amp fuse near the battery should be check for corrosion at the fuse holder and the connection at the battery. This fuse is for the injection and ignition systems.
Both of these are common problem areas that can be intermittent.
Dan
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Shane,
I Hope you learned your lesson! Never pull to the shoulder unless it is an EMERGENCY. Resetting the check engine light does not qualify. I could rail you more with this sentence, but that is not part of the Brickboard mission.
Wow, I just reread your third paragraph. It reminds me of a television scene, STOP IT!
You should do everything you said, (check fuel pressure, etc.)
Goatman
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