Very interesting read.

I've probably driven more miles behind proper eCode lenses than I have with US spec plastic lamps.
When I bought my 240, I drove it for a year before I made the switch. I stayed away from the DJAuto lamps, since they were expensive and weren't available from FCP. I learned a little German, and hunted ebay.de before I settled on this set:

These were OEM, in excellent condition, and I had no issues with fitment or quality. I've never owned a set of DJAuto lamps, but can't imagine they'd be that much poorer, and considering I paid approx. $350 shipped to Canada, FCP is likely a good deal. I also took the opportunity, since the side corner lights were cracked, to purchase new all clear lenses.


The car looked excellent!

Anyway, it also was a day and night difference. I also learned a little when I installed them, and I also used a relay kit from Daniel Stern as from the beginning I planned to run overwattage bulbs. Overwattage bulbs will compensate a little for voltage variations, and I was very pleased with my choice of 100wH/90wL H4s.
Here are some photos from the install in the 240:



As you can see, it's VERY tight near the battery. I have small hands and changing a bulb was so challenging I gave up and pulled the headlight. I would've pulled the battery instead, but I had the headlight socket on hand, and not he battery terminal, and I didn't want to go back inside and get it. lol.
I also had a problem. Spend the money and go for a marine fuse holder. I had problems with wet fuses and often had to open the fuse holder, blow it out, dry the fuse, and put it back in. I realized this was because I had hooked my fuse up near the switching box in the front left of the engine bay - These relays are actually on a metal bracket that spaces them out maybe a half inch. The fuse holder was almost as if it were made to slot between them and the fender. THIS WAS A MISTAKE. the reason those are spaced out like that is because water comes down through that area off the fender/hood. So don't put it right there!
I also ran it in such a way that I still had all the stock wiring attached. This was useful when I sold the car as I just unhooked the old lamps, cut the wiring to the switch at the firewall, and removed the ground wire. It was out in ten minutes and the old headlamps were plugged right back in. I never had any problems with bulb failure lamps or anything like that.
I was so pleased that after I sold the car, I found a set of excellent eCodes for the 940 while I searched for the right car. When I found a 940 estate in Oregon I liked, it came with the euro lamps already, and I sold my spare DJ Auto I had already purchased. Interestingly enough, my 940 was all OEM Volvo/Bosch except for the lenses, so I had a friend in Italy send me some excellent used Volvo OEM glass. Again, can't speak on fitment differences, but here's something you might find interesting... The glass is different. OEM 940 euro spec glass on the right, DJ auto reproduction on the left:


Reproduction:

OEM:


Reproduction:


OEM:


The big difference is the fluting in the glass at the top of the Volvo marked glass, and I'm not sure why or if it matters...


Here's the 940 with the euro lamps:


And here's the beam. Keep in mind this is with OEM housings and reflectors and JUST DJ Auto glass. not oem glass.


As you can see, the cutoff is far far sharper. This is of course low beam, and the 240 is similar in cutoff. It's worthwhile because you're throwing more light down the road.

The 940 also has the E-Code lamps and relays as well. It also has an extra set of relays for the fogs, as well as the fact it's got dual high beam lamps.
I was fairly happy with the light output but when one finally popped off (it was six years old) I replaced both H4's with a set of 130wH/100wL lights. This combined with the inner highbeams on the top really do make it incredible. I made the mistake of walking uphill towards the car with all highs on and it was like walking into the sun. :P In fact I came around a corner and had a cop in a parked car late one night turn on his emergency lights quickly because he was being badly dazzled. Obviously, it's not for use in the city on high. But I've never had a real problem with being flashed with the higher wattage bulbs on low. the few times I have been and flashed back it's been attributed to being on a hill, and most drivers when they get the sunspots from the highs probably regret flashing me.
FWIW, here's the 940 with low beams on and one fog burnt out.

The additional highbeams, which many people with aftermarket lamps don't connect, are at the top above the lower portion integrated fogs. I really appreciate having them, and am very tempted to put an even higher wattage bulb there so they can double as driving lights... 160w should be okay, I think. Again, not using it in urban areas unless it's extremely late in suburbia.

Finally, for reference this is an up close shot of my Euro-spec 245 from Germany, as originally fitted:



Frankly, once you go e-spec, you'll never go back. The plastic lamps are complete and utter garbage, and regardless of the relay kit's claims and actual performance, if you want to run a higher wattage bulb and not melt down the interior switch, this is the way to do it.

Again, I left the original headlamp connectors on the 240 unmodified since I knew I'd be selling it some day, and was glad I did. Running a single wire to the interior switch, and utilizing the connector in the silver box on the front left inside fender area and letting that switching box do the high/low switch work was a great decision, just watch your fuse placement. Finally, as said on Daniel Stern's site, careful thought and thoughtful care is required. I had both bulbs blow at idle on the 240 because I accidentally wired it incorrectly and it caused a voltage spike. Getting shattered glass out of those lenses is a PITA, and driving down a mountain road at 1am @ ~20km/h with just parking lights and the light of the full moon was a uhm... 'an experience'