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So it seems getting into 1st is pretty rough. If you push too far to the left, (like normal) and up, then there is something that seems to block it, making it difficult. Move it a little bit to the right, (where 3rd seems it should be) and you can sneak it into place. 2nd is a little rough, but tolerable. Rev is just difficult, as you really have to pull up on the shift knob (more than normal) to finally slip it left and into gear.
What I'm wondering is, is there an easy fix to this? Aside from changing the tranny oil, is there some kind of adjustment to be preformed?.. keep in mind the clutch seems to work just fine.
thanks in advance.
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual
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The first place to start would be the reverse lockout plate mounted on the top of the shift housing. Pull the four plastic pins that hold the boot and lift it out of the way. You'll see the lockout--a bridge with two screws--adjust its position as necessary. -- Dave
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did that, and it seemed to help.
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual
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That worked. still a bit of a pill as it clunks into 1st, but this is normal, i think. question though, what are those two wires that go right by the bottom of the plate? the protective housing cracked off, but the wires are in tact. nothing between that and the road. not sure if there should be.
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual
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The two wires are for the reverse light switch, which is located on the trans. The wires should be taped up to keep them from shorting out.
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http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=53563&id=1189132524&l=75a2564d60
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ok. it's not the most fun i've ever had pulling up and putting back those clips on the shift boot. plus, it seems like anytime i've touched those wires, the plastic just crumbles, but i'll try and tape them up better.
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual
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Tightening my clutch cable helped with my issues getting into 1st. Do you get grinding "gears" if you try to downshift, with the clutch in, at 15-20mph?
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1990 740 Turbo, on its way to stock specs, maybe beyond
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it seems if i "feather" it just right i can get grindage on all gears at speed (with clutch pushed in) how would one go about tightening the clutch cable?
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual
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Two cents, wrote this in another thread, however, .....
Just replaced clutch cable, the one I took out was original, '88/240/47, and it disengaged way down on the floor, couldn't loosen the locknut, sooooo I put in a new one and.......
the clutch now disengages about half way up the travel and no matter how much I screw the adjuster in or out, the adjustment seems to only change the level of the clutch pedel not the point of engagement/release??
I guess as the clutch wears the release/engage point moves up from the floor.
Hard shifting problem as you mentioned was softened a bit by a liberal smear on axle grease on the ball linkage with a drop of moly oil, and the usual adjustment of the lockout plate. Works a little better, but 1st always slides right in if I quickly shift into 3rd and then into 1st at rest.
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what is moly oil?... can you use a drop of regular motor oil along with axle grease?
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual
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Yeah, use any lighter oil to soften the greese and allow the lube to soak around the ball linkage. Moly is oil with molybdenum disulfide/MoS2in it.
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Ok, I don't want to mess things up, but what do you think of Lucas products? i was thinking of dropping on a smear of this Red n Tacky Grease, then the Semi Synthetic Assembly Lube on the ball linkage.
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=46&catid=14&loc=show
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=291&catid=9&loc=show
Maybe flushing and filling with their ATF and....
Any opinions on the "transmission fix?"
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/display_products.sd?iid=29&catid=9&loc=show
BTW, i'm not trying to sell Lucas products, but i've had good results with the brake fluid and injector cleaner. Really, I'm just thinking of what would be available at a common New York auto parts store and Lucas seemed the best bet. If i should wait and order "fancy" stuff, then I shall.
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual
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So, was it difficult changing the clutch cable?
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual
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The hardest part was figgerin how to get under, safely, on my back with my older aches and pains. Scares me gettin under a 2500 lb. dead weight with no one around to jack up the car if I get crushed. Common sense, jackstands, wheel chocks, and, preferably, secure ramps instead of just jacking it up.
The two hardest parts of replacement was pushing the body of the nut/locknut out of the bellhousing/arm hole thingee. It was old/original and was corroded in place. And getting the cable end out of the counterweight, also rusted in place.
Any doubts, take it to mechanic.
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I'd say, before you spend another dime on parts, spend a few dimes on a good manual. Either the green Volvo manuals, or a bentley.
You don't need a clutch cable. Yet. You likely need a clutch adjustment, which is done under the car, and if you have the right tools, takes about 5 minutes.
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-Matt I ♥ my ♂
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i do have a Haynes. Probably explains a bit in that. what tools would you be referring to?
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'89 245 DL B230 Manual
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My experience is but one, on an '88/240/47, and differs from others. However, for what's it's worth, the only thing I can figger about the release/engage point being so low to the floor, is that the old cable must have stretched over the years, thus lowering the point of release/engage.
The housing was so corroded the adjustment screw could not be loosened. I actually, laying on by back and cursing, couldn't get the old cable end out of the counterweight, and finally had to cut it.
And now, with the release/engage point somewhere in the middle of pedal travel, the clutch is certainly completely disengaged when I push the pedal all the way down.
The 5 spd. doesn't engage 1st gear a lot better, but the rest are smoother, and, as I said before, a quick snick into third before going into 1st solves my shifting at rest. 47s are nortorious for this behaviour?
These cars, 240s, have their own peculiarities which eventually become terms of endearment. ONly rust or death will separate me from mine.
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