Hi-

I'm a complete idiot with regard to wiring, so I emailed Dan when I got my kit, and here are my embarrassingly stupid questions and his quite clear answers.

Stuff in the kit:

-Red Wire "bracelet": Fuseholder. Simply snip the wire to give two wire ends (one from each side of the actual fuse receptacle).

-Black cubical devices with metal pins: Relays.

-Metal "chain" : String of terminals for wire ends. Simply twist/bend each terminal off the chain as you need to use it. Install terminals on the ends of all wires that will go to the relays.

-Black "hollow" plastic devices with mounting tabs: Relay holder/terminal blocks. After installing the terminals on the wire ends, push each wire end into its correct relay holder slot from below. It will snap lock into place. Then the relay can simply be plugged onto the relay holder.

-Black square objects, about 1/4" thick and 1" on a side: H4 bulb sockets (RIK2, RIK4, RIKH4R, RIKC5 kits only). Squeeze one release tab at a time, insert wire, release tab. When working with H4 bulbs, terminal configuration is as follows (as you're looking at the bulb's terminals, glass pointing away from you): Left vertical = Common. Top horizontal = Low Feed. Right vertical = High Feed.

-Terminals packaged with hollow plastic shells (these parts look like the back end of a bulb): male plugs and terminals. Crimp or crimp/solder the terminals onto the ends of your relay trigger wires, max 14 gauge, push the wires terminal-first into the plastic shells, where they'll snap-lock in place, and then snap the shells onto the vehicle's existing headlamp sockets. This gives you individual wires to work with, to trigger your relays, without cutting off the vehicle's original headlamp sockets. If your kit contains two of these, it is so that one can be used for low beam and common, and the other can be used for high beam and common.

You'll have one relay controlling both low beams. Its trigger contacts
(85- and 86+) will be connected to the car's original low beam circuit + and - via one of the car's original headlamp sockets.

You'll have another relay controlling both high beams. Its trigger contacts (85- and 86+) will be connected to the car's original high beam circuit + and - via one of the car's original headlamp sockets.

General relay installation instructions and diagrams are at http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html

My questions with his answers:

1) The blue male 9004 sockets are intended to be plugged into the existing headlight wiring, so instead of illuminating the headlamp, they will be used to power the relays?
Yes.

2)The wire FROM the old headlamp INTO the relays can be wimpy gage wire?
Yep.

3) Fuses - I assume that I cut and splice the fuse into the + wire running from the alternator to the relay?
Yes, as close as possible to your power takeoff point (alternator or battery).

The attachment to the alternator (or positive battery post) is achieved via the yellow circle posts?
Yes.

4) Out of the relays, I run a one wire from each of the 87 posts from the low beam relay to each of the post 56b on the little Hellas thingies that plug directly into the bulb. I run two wires from the high beam relay (again, from post 87) to post 56a on the two Hella plug thingies.

Also, the little Hella plugs - they seem to be spring held connectors for the wires - should I solder as well, or trust the spring to hold the wire in place? I think if I solder, I could mess up the holder.

No need to solder, and you've got the connections correct. Don't forget a 10ga wire from the new bulb sockets' "31" terminals to a proper ground (NOT the nearest sheetmetal!).

5) Does slot 85 on relay go to the body of the car, or back to negative side of the battery?
Either.

7) the linked chain of crimpable wire holders gets separated into individual units, and then crimped onto the wires, and then go into the relay holder?
Yes.