HELP! My daughter's 98 GLE just jumped the timing belt. Yes, it really is the 16 valve zero-tolerance motor. And yes it no longer works real well.

I need to find a source of dis-assembly and assembly literature for this motor. The Haynes and Chilton pubs are really vauge on the 16 valve motor. I am going to dis-assemble and see how bad the damage is.

Anyone have anything that can help?

Thanks.

Thought I would update on the surgery. The belt did indeed jump. The reason is kind of odd. As you all know there are two belts inside the front covers, the timing belt (most referenced) and the balance shaft belt. Both have tensioners and gears.

As I pulled "cover 2" (bottom left from front of moter) a number of gear parts fell on the floor. It was the balance shatf tensioner/gear from the botteom left of the motor. The teeth had "disintegrated", got carried up to the timing belt, got between the timing belt (lots of nicks there), caused the jump and . . .

Cylinders one and four have bent input valves and shiny spots on the pistons. Pistons do not appear to be cracked.

Final decision on keep or toss not yet made.

More later.

Thanks for all the input.

As you can find in other sources... the b234f is good but needs respectable maintanance... see my web page for a recap.

Greg
www.volvoclassic.bravehost.com

I rebuilt my 744 motor head. I love these motors, they are so smooth. That gear was plastic, there is a metal replacement. The plastic ones tend to fail in cold weather.
My 745 recently broke it's belt, haven't looked inside yet. Let me know if you want to sell your head, may be better than mine at this point!
--
744 & 745 16v 4+OD, 245 SE auto, 242Ti 4+OD, 745 8v auto

I rebuilt my 744 motor head. I love these motors, they are so smooth. That gear was plastic, there is a metal replacement. The plastic ones tend to fail in cold weather.
My 745 recently broke it's belt, haven't looked inside yet. Let me know if you want to sell your head, may be better than mine at this point!
--
744 & 745 16v 4+OD, 245 SE auto, 242Ti 4+OD, 745 8v auto

Greg Mustang
www.volvoclassic.bravehost.com

I replaced the valves in my 16v after it bent all of them upon a belt failure (idler pulleys came loose). The pistons were fine. I used a Chiltons or maybe it was a Mitchells manual which was at the library. Careful when removing and installing the cams, and be sure to keep all the lifters in order when removing them.
It's a slow job as first you must remove the cams, then the cam carrier before you can get at the head bolts.
--
744 & 745 16v 4+OD, 245 SE auto, 242Ti 4+OD, 745 8v auto

I have a good complete 16 valve head boxed up and ready to ship. lgspooner@verizon.net

I'll keep that in mind. Thanks.

You will find some tear down photos at http://billgarland.mcmaster.ca/volvo/volvohome.htm

Bill

hi there.
i have scanned your web site before, but i never realized how much work and info is there.
nice job
mike
--
85 244 ti 221,000 83 244t broke odo, 85 244 19?,000 86 244 151,000 94 944 116,000

Thanks. It started out as a small test of some C coding but got away on me....

Bill

The pics are great.

Get the green manual for that engine from Volvo at www.volvotechinfo.com
It will be money well spent. The UK haynes covers the basics on that engine, but it's a hair vague for major surgery.
--
-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350 diesel dually

The British version of the Haynes manual (light blue hard cover) has a full description of the 16V engine. You can order one from IPD.

From what I understand, the engine is probably trashed (bent valves at a minimum, possible piston damage or worse, depending on how fast it was turning when the belt let go) I have one that I took out of a parts car. It had a broken belt. I haven't torn into it yet to see how bad it is.

Thanks. I will see if I can get access to one.

I agree, the engine is probably trashed but since I have never opened one up, what the heck, sounds like fun. Been in many Ford 6's and V8s, numerous BMW 4's and 6's but this will be my first Volvo engine surgery.

Thanks again.

I just finished repairing mine (89 740 16-valve). Ordered and got the Volvo manual, it's certainly adequate, not too much $$$.
I only bent 8 of the 16 valves, but it was still expen$ive... about $1500 CDN total. New valves list about $50 each - I tried to get used, didn't work out, but the guy sold me new for his cost ($30 each).
All the valves that got bent also cracked the valve guides. I got a machine shop to do the valve job, replace the bad guides, and get 3 exhaust studs out. ($500)
New belts, gaskets, seals, and valves total $1000. (I could have got cheaper, but who wants to cheap out on a timing belt after this happens!)
A few pointers:
After you take the camshafts off, lift out the lifters BEFORE you remove the camshaft carrier (so you can keep them in order) - else they all fall together in a pile. Store them inverted, so the oil doesn't run out - else it takes a long time for them to stop clicking next time you start engine.
Instead of special tool to hold camshaft timing belt pulleys while removing the pulley attachment bolt, I wrapped the old timing belt around a 1x3 board about 18" long. Worked OK. Picture this: put end of old belt on pulley. Hold end in place on pulley, with END of 1x3. Wrap belt around pulley, then along top edge of 1x3. Use C-clamp to clamp belt to 1x3. If you wrapped it the right way around, this will hold it while you loosen the bolt.

Good luck.