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Rapping at start up Pt II 120-130

posted by  jmenacker on  Fri Mar 3 10:49 CST 2006
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last visit: Wed Jan 21 09:31 CST 2009
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While doing a little cleaning in the engine bay I noticed that one of the heater hoses was flopping around a bit. A quick survey from the drivers side revealed a loose support clamp over on the passenger side. A better look from the passenger side showed that the clamp apparently is held in place at the rear most exhaust manifold bolt.

The heater hose clamp was hanging loose because the exhaust manifold bolt was missing! An assortment of bolts from the cultch box were routed through the manifold but none matched the threaded hole in the block. Finally it occured to me that perhaps the old bolt had sheared off in the block.

A wire run into the hole in the manifold confirmed that something solid appeared to be flush with the block.

The good news is this confirms my suspicion that the few minutes of rapping when the car starts up was an exhaust leak. I don't think I am going to attempt to get the broken bolt (stud?) out myself.

Will the manifolds need to be removed to extract the broken fastener?

Thanks,

Joe M in WV








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    Rapping at start up Pt II - Fixed! 120-130

    posted by  jmenacker on  Wed Mar 22 06:11 CST 2006
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    last visit: Wed Jan 21 09:31 CST 2009
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    I had all new manifold studs, fasteners and gasket installed. No more rapping at start up. I didn't have the nerve to try drilling the broken stud out. Last time someone "helped" me with a broken bolt the easy out broke off in the bolt. Not encouraging.

    All in all it set me back about $150 for parts and labor. Peace of mind figuratively and literally was well worth it.

    Best regards,

    Joe M in WV








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    Rapping at start up Pt II 120-130

    uid 5322's pic
    posted by  alschnertz on  Fri Mar 3 11:18 CST 2006
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 10:32 CST 2014
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    You may consider replacing all the manifold studs since you will have the manifold off anyway.
    --
    '60 544, '68 220S, '70 145S, '72 144E, '86 745T








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      Rapping at start up Pt II 120-130

      posted by  walrus3 on  Fri Mar 3 13:13 CST 2006
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      last visit: Mon Dec 2 14:20 CST 2013
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      The thread in the hole is 5/16"-18UNC, a VERY common size. Unfortunately
      the stud holes in the head are a pretty tight fit so that when you take the
      nuts off you don't pull the studs. The tap drill size is "F" which is 0.257"
      ("E" = ¼") If you can drill good and straight into the old stud starting with
      a smaller size and incrementally going bigger and bigger until you can see
      some thread in the hole, you can probably collapse it and get it out fairly
      easy. Whatever you do, DON'T try to go back with an 8mm bolt!! 'bout the
      same size but different thread. I'd probably center punch it as close to the
      center of the bolt as I could get and then drill starting with a 3/16" bit.
      Then gradually drill with bigger drills but stop before you get to ¼". You
      will almost undoubtedly be off center enough that you will go through the
      roots of the bolt threads by that size.
      --
      George Downs Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!








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    Rapping at start up Pt II 120-130

    posted by  Phil S. on  Fri Mar 3 11:02 CST 2006
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    last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
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    Normally there's a stud and a nut in that location, not a bolt. Yes, the manifold will need to come off to extract the broken remains of the old one.








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      Rapping at start up Pt II 120-130

      posted by  jmenacker on  Fri Mar 3 11:30 CST 2006
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      last visit: Wed Jan 21 09:31 CST 2009
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      Thanks for the quick reply, Phil. Is a gasket replacement in order as well?

      Hey, how about a real repair creep and have the head refurbished while the manifolds are off?

      Joe M in WV








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        Rapping at start up Pt II 120-130

        posted by  Phil S. on  Fri Mar 3 12:36 CST 2006
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        last visit: Fri Oct 24 13:18 CST 2014
        [RELATED]

        Ummm, I think I wouldn't pull the head unless you have reason to believe there's a problem with it, or you can't get the broken stud out without taking it to a machine shop. I'd go for a new manifold gasket in any case.







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