|
|
|
My 945 has developed an oil leak that has grown progressively worse over the past few weeks. The local mechanic thinks it's probably due to a head gasket failure. He bases this diagnostic on the fact that the oil seems to be coming from near the top of the rear of the engine. Possibly due to either a valve cover gasket, distributer O-ring, or head gasket. Also, he found a trace of antifreeze that appears to be originating where the head meets the block near the front of the engine, just under the exhaust manifold.
The car has 268K miles. Otherwise, it runs well.
The FAQ suggests that a head gasket will fail over time and with high miles due to the different expansion coefficients of the block and head. So is this a reasonable diagnosis? Should I just pull the head and replace the gasket, along with the valve cover gasket and distributor O-ring? Or maybe consider replacing the engine with something with fewer miles?
By the way, he estimates somewhere in the neighborhood of $1200 for a replacement head gasket job. It looks like I can purchase a head gasket set from Scan Tech for around $35 and a timing belt for less than $20. What am I missing here?
Any thought, advice, and opinions welcome.
Robert
|
|
|
|
The most likely cause of an oil leak at the rear of the engine is the distributor shaft seal. See the 700/900 FAQ. Your headgasket might be ready to expire, but the most likely cause of the oil leak is the distributor. I have repaired lots of those, and done only a couple of Volvo head gaskets.
--
john
|
|
|
|
|
A couple of quick notes:
Don't use the Scan Tech gasket. This is one of the few times when everyone recommends going with the OEM Volvo part (it's a little more expensive, but it's worth the extra $20 to not have to do the head again)
Your mechanic is going to send the head out to be freshened & machined if necessary -- this will run about $300. He's going to install Volvo OEM gaskets, timing belt, and a water pump. (Because he guarantees his work, and he doesn't want to have to do it a second time for free... and because he wants a satisfied customer.) So he's in it for over $200- $300 in parts, $300 in machine shop work (plus his markup -- which he's entitled to). The rest is labor, and if I remember correctly, the book time alloted for a head is in the neighborhood of 7 hours. So $1200 is probably about right. The guy has to make a living, just like you and I.
Just my 2 cents... arguably worth that.
Jeff Pierce
--
'93 945 Turbo (201K miles), '93 945 (140K miles/I maintain for a family member), '93 945 Turbo (sold w 145K miles), '92 Mercedes 190E (174K miles), '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (225K miles), '53 Willys Overland w/ Fisher plow (sold to a loving home)
|
|
|
|
|
You're right, of course. I agree that a reputable mechanic would follow the steps you described if hired to do the job. If I were to replace the head gasket myself, I'd probably do it on the cheap, since the engine has 270k miles on it. I'll spring for the extra $20 to get a quality head gasket (by the way, thanks for the top on the Scan Tech brand. didn't know that) and get a new timing belt while I'm in there. But I don't see spending the money on having the head reconditioned at this point while I have it off.
I did change the flame trap (was clogged and probably contributed to the crank case pressure and exacerbated any leaks I have), the valve cover gasket, and the distributor O-ring. I'm watching to see how it affects my oil leak. If it returns to something minimal, I'll probably just live with it. Otherwise, it's a new head gasket job under my shade tree.
Thanks for all the input and advice.
|
|
|
|
|
Have you had an over-heating incident? If so, it my be necessary to have the head planed by a machine shop.
It would stink to spend all that time, only to have a warped head cause the new gasket to leak.
Jeff Pierce
--
'93 945 Turbo (201K miles), '93 945 (140K miles/I maintain for a family member), '93 945 Turbo (sold w 145K miles), '92 Mercedes 190E (174K miles), '85 Jeep CJ-7 w/ Fisher plow (225K miles), '53 Willys Overland w/ Fisher plow (sold to a loving home)
|
|
|
|
|
"I did change the...............................and the distributor O-ring."
The distributor base o-ring is not the major sourse of oil leaks at the distributor, it is the distributor shaft seal. See the FAQ for replacing it.
--
john
|
|
|
|
|
Why not replace the distributor o-ring, water pump and timing belt. I doubt it trully needs a head gasket..
-Gil
|
|
|
|
|
Take it apart and just replace the head gasket. 4 hours later good to go. Probably the easiest head gasket in the automotive world next to the chevy 2.2 pushrod motor. I recomend using a 100 grit emory cloth on a 2x4 to do a quick resurface of the head. I did the same job for my girlfriend 3 years ago on her 760 with 230,000. Just the gaskets , no new headbolts, no valve seals, just cam seal and I did put a new waterpump on it, first time. So far it is still running. It blows some smoke on startup, but 275,000 it still gets her where she wants to go. I drain the intercooler at each oil change. If you are really into it, get a used low mileage head and bolt it on, go for another 150000.
|
|
|
|
I think both you and Mr. Goltz are correct. Do the cheaper repairs first and verify. The WP mushroom gasket is right there at the bottom of the head and antifreeze could be blowing back. A new gasket with a little RTV in the corners or O-rings may seal the leak at the back.
--
Tom F. Three Bricks, maintain two more.
|
|
|
|
|
Hello Robert:
I'd look into the cheaper stuff first-- a valve cover gasket is dirt cheap, and an o-ring kit for the distributor isn't that much more. I don't care for the vague diagnosis approach (although many would agree that at 270K mi the head gasket probably isn't forever anymore).
These cars will leak oil like sieves if the crankcase ventilation system isn't clear-- a new oil separator would be a good idea, as well as a thorough cleaning of all the associated lines.
I guess you could take it to a shop that has a sniffer to look for evidence of exhaust gases in the coolant recovery tank.
You might want to look into what is available in terms of whole motors at local boneyards-- you might pick up something with half the mileage for a few hundred bucks, reseal it where necessary, throw in a new rad and be happy for another 100K mi.
Let us know what you decide to do!
--
Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 245 w/124K mi, '92 945T w/200K mi
|
|
|
|
|
Hello Robert:
I'd look into the cheaper stuff first-- a valve cover gasket is dirt cheap, and an o-ring kit for the distributor isn't that much more. I don't care for the vague diagnosis approach (although many would agree that at 270K mi the head gasket probably isn't forever anymore).
These cars will leak oil like sieves if the crankcase ventilation system isn't clear-- a new oil separator would be a good idea, as well as a thorough cleaning of all the associated lines.
I guess you could take it to a shop that has a sniffer to look for evidence of exhaust gases in the coolant recovery tank.
You might want to look into what is available in terms of whole motors at local boneyards-- you might pick up something with half the mileage for a few hundred bucks, reseal it where necessary, throw in a new rad and be happy for another 100K mi.
Let us know what you decide to do!
--
Herb Goltz, Aurora, Ontario, Canada '92 245 w/124K mi, '92 945T w/200K mi
|
|
|
|
|
