It was my nephew (former owner of my car) who paid those quoted prices, which I tried to tell him were OUTRAGEOUS at the time. Heck they wanted $460 just to replace the upper engine torque mount (the one that bolts to the cam cover on the driver's side).

On that one I managed to get him to buy the one from FCP Groton for about $60 and it took 15 min flat to install w/o even getting my hands dirty.

BTW, I called a friend of a very good friend in WA State at an unnamed Volvo dealer (where he is the head of the entire service department) asking about the ETM and the extended warranty on it.

His comments were, "Don't think you're going to just walk in and have them give you a free ETM. First they check the codes (1 hr minimum charge), and if you don't have the "right ones," they make you have the ETM cleaned (about $350), and that's not Volvo's responsibility. Then they will do a "sweep" of the cleaned ETM at your cost (guess that's probably another hundred bucks).

By then you have spent close to $500 in diagnostic costs, and you still have your old ETM still installed. He said anything that is suspect to the tech will also have to be replaced at my cost before they will spring for the ETM, and, as he said, it can add up real fast.

Sounds like at most I want them to read the codes, which generic scanners, including expensive ones like my good friend has at HIS independent import shop (a $6000 tool)won't read, and go from there. The fellow said that unless it kicks out the "right" codes while they are watching (since in my case the "Engine Service Required" and "Reduced Power" text are intermittent messages) or unless they are stored (some disappear, and some saved he said) you are SOL as well.

It might be worth just waiting until it gets much worse (almost undrivable) before giving the dealer over $100 to do a scan. Then if it points to the ETM, buy the Canadian one for $550.

He also said the cruise problem I am having (works only intermittently) is a trail and error troubleshooting unless codes are set, which is normally not the case. He said that could be easily 6 hours labor and a few components changed before they "hit" the right one. The brake sensor in the vacuum booster, or the brake switch above the pedals, or the throttle position switch, or the ETM are possibilities, though since it won't even arm (turn the light in the speedo cluster on when it's not working), I have my doubts. He said it could also be the main computer, of course. When the green "CRUISE" is illuminated, it works perfectly when selected, BTW.

It seemed so much simpler with my 244, 740, and 965 even.

UUGH!

Bob