I am wanting to find information on camshaft locking. Is it just a matter of lining the sprockets with the shaft and pinning these in place? I have just read one head gasket write up and how he locked the shafts with the sprockets together with ties and board and removed shafts with sprocket entirely for cleaning the upper head cover. Another diy mechanic shows he left in place aligned within the upper head and removed together with the head. Which is best method?
Also, at what point does locking become necessary before 'all timing is lost'? What point can I work to before losing timing, ie, when doing timing belt accidentally moving the crank (although I didn't use a locking tool when doping timing belt), or is it when taking off the upper head ...? I'm just a little confused.
Cheers

I have not had the head off our car but IIRC the issue is removing the pulleys and not knowing which cam they belong to or mixing up the intake and exhaust cams. Some cams may not have a pip to line up the pulleys upon reinstallation either. The VVT engine will have a solenoid at the front of the head.

Greg

"The VVT engine will have a solenoid at the front of the head"

Our '01 S40 has the VVT hub and its solenoid on the exhaust cam which is the firewall side of the engine. Pretty sure I saw a video (when researching my cam seal replacement) that had a 5 cyl. with the same set-up.

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"Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different' - Sharon Craig

"front of the head" Sorry, too many rwd cars in my life. The front of an engine is on the #1 cylinder, timing belt, end... Our '04 V70 has VVT on both cams. the actuators are on the #1 cylinder end of the motor, the front.

Greg

Thanks everyone
I will try to fashion a tool from angle iron.

Note before taking the sprockets loose from the cam shafts - When the sprockets are on their timing marks, take a look at the aligning slots on the other ends of the shafts. You will see that they are parallel, but not on the same plane. What I mean is, I believe you will find the intake cam slot is slightly ABOVE center while the exhaust cam slot is slightly BELOW center. So if you fashion a locking tool, there needs to be a slight offset built in. You don't want to simply put the slots in line with each other. If you do, each cam will be retarded just a smidge. Or worse, you may get one of the cams 180 deg out of time. (Ouch!)

Thank you thank you
I have angle iron now to make a tool.
My hard part is getting the camshaft cover cap off. That hides the intake shaft slots for my tool. It's like a very hard rubber. I have poked a hole but can't move much of it out.

If you're talking about the black cap at the end of the camshaft cover, just poke it in the middle and pry it out. Should be pretty easy with a large screwdriver.
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"Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different' - Sharon Craig

I can't get the intake and exhaust to line up!
Have cranked it around and still won't align
I have included a photo .... hope it appears for you to see. Photo # 11880 in the gallery

The photo looks like your VVT is in action. I suspect that if the Tbelt is still on, line up the marks and then rotate the engine 90 degrees backward and then line up the marks again. That movement takes the pressure off the VVT.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Based on a previous Brickboard or Volvo owner's design here is my homemade cam lock.
About the problem I ended up thinking that either a: the timing is too advanced on the exhaust, b: it is supposed to be like this c: some imbalance has occured because of extreme heat.
I took belt off top and physically turned pulley, to the rear maybe advancing it. Several teeth out to be sure. I will adjust timing at end that's all I can do. At least this way the shafts are not 180 degrees or anything like that, and I will put back to where it was.
I traded my 2 ton cheapy jack (one that broke when raising my vehicle) along with a really distasteful and dangerous brand of grinder to the scrap metal yard and swapped them for some angle iron. That is finished. yaay.
I am quite fearing the worst for the Volvo. The spark plugs were very brown. Looking in through the intake the outside of some of the valves are golden brown instead of chrome. There was coolant! and sludge in a chamber. I hope it is not the end of the workhorse.
Thanks y'all
A photo for you to enjoy.

When you pry off the cam cover, you will notice that the angle iron is not needed until you put the cam cover back on.

The brown spark plugs are to be expected. The antifreeze will not hurt anything but you should oil the rings to flush off any residual antifreeze and keep rust from forming. The oil in the piston ring grooves will also aid in restart, the compression will be where it should be.

Don't loose hope.

When re-installing the head, check the crankshaft mark to make sure it is centered - you might have been one tooth off during disassembly. "I" would not put the exhaust cam in crooked, Do it the correcct way and check the timing marks. Remember, always crank the engine 2 complete revolutions to check for bad positioning.

Keep us posted. I realize there is a bit of time zone discrepency between New Zealand and the USA.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Something does look unusual. On mine, the intake cam slot was horizontal just above center and the exhaust horizontal just below center.
are you sure you have the timing marks properly aligned?
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"Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different' - Sharon Craig

In your case, there is no 'locking'. You need to put the crankshaft gear in the proper alignment as you want the engine to be ready to fire on number 1 when you are all done.

The locking tool for the rear of the cam shafts is needed to align the cams when re-installing them. This locking tool is required, you may craft your own or purchase one. The Haynes 850 manual has a write up on how to make one.

In addition, you will need a 'tool' to hold down the cam cover as the aluminum screws are not strong enough to force the valve springs when you glue the cover back down.

You will also need new head bolts, 8 of them I think. And a can of RTV glue, Volvo is best.

Be careful prying up the cam cover, it is cast aluminum and can break if forced too much.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Thank you Klaus,

I have the timing lined up with notches at top and crank at bottom. I was hoping to tie off the pulleys onto a flat board, but there is a dome shape cover with a torx opening over the exhaust pulley.
I guess my car is VVT because this is somehow linked to the variable timing? I am looking for a way to find if car is variable timing or not.
I wonder too if there is a way to do the job without buying the 100 dollar tool. Does a head gasket change require the pulleys to be taken off? I could probably rig something that just keeps the shafts 'plugged in' to the pulleys. If it just stops them flapping around that is fine, if I needn't have to put force on breaking the pulleys ...
Thank you for the advice.
-Andy

That dome on the exhaust pulley is the VVT, you do not have to pull it off, nor do you have to remove the cam sprockets. The locking tool is used on the other end of the cams when you reassemble the head.

The rear of the cams: the exhaust has the sensor attached, the intake has a plug cover (the rotor used to be there for older engines).

I am going to try Emailing 2 pics from the Haynes 850 manual, no VVT, but should work.

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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

You may want to give the year and model of your car to make it easier to ascertain which VVT hub you have. There were different ones used over the years.

I just did the front camshaft seals on our '01 S40 so though no expert, at least the info is still fresh in my mind. My car has an early version of the VVT hub and it's located on the exhaust camshaft. I bit the bullet and purchased the locking tool. I probably could have made my own, but it was easier on my brain to use the proper tool as this was the first time I had to do this kind of job.

In my opinion, the sprockets should be removed for your head gasket repair. This is because I consider replacement of the camshaft seals as part of the head gasket job. I would not want to squish the cam cover onto the camshaft seals just to try and save $20. That's just not how they're intended to be installed. My concern is leaks after the job was finished.

The camshafts don't "plug in" to the sprockets. They're bolted together and there is no key so proper alignment is essential - but I think you know that.
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"Differences of opinions should be tolerated, but not if they're too different' - Sharon Craig

Seems that Andy has a dead engine with rust in the cyl bores and valve seats.

https://www.brickboard.com/AWD/volvo/1603876/warning_graphic_photos_burned_valves_may_disturb.html

He posted 3 pics. I agree that the block has seen better days.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Cheers
getting closer

I will try to make a tool though as I would like to do the seals.

There are cheap little plugs tools that fit between the sprockets but I suppose they do not hold the shafts together when out of car ...
I read a write up that showed with the shafts out you can slide seals over and down to the pulley end. So, I do not need to remove pulleys?

I am confused...

If the forward seals do not leak, do NOT replace them. Removing the VVT is an extremely hard task and not taken lightly. The rear seals can be replaced, but they can also be replaced at a later time quite easily with the cams inplace.

No, the front seals can not be replaced without removing the VVT or the sprockets. A heavy duty cam locking tool, as shown by Packard8 is needed to remove and install the VVT and is done by holding the back ends of the cams in place.

Once the cam cover is off, the cams can be lifted off and kept in a clean place.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

"Once the cam cover is off, the cams can be lifted off and kept in a clean place"

Thanks for all your advice. It may be hard at the end to have everything lined up. Of course the crank will have to be spot on. I wonder if I am a tooth out at the crank that would mean I would have to remove the head all over again.
With taking the cam shafts out would I have to keep them tied together and kept firmly in line during the time they are out?

The cams are loose and not part of the cover as you will soon see. When you are ready to install the cam cover you will need to tie down the front of the cams to the cover and then use the angle iron tool to hold the rears in place against the cover.

When coating the cam cover and base with RTV, use a small sponge roller and keep the RTV layer thin. Note, you will need to make a tool to fasten down the cover, the aluminum screws are not strong enough to pull the cover down with the valve springs trying to push the cams up - lots of force there.

Again, be careful not to break the cam cover during removal. Pry slowly and carefully, the cover will pop up with the valve spring pressure.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Thank you Klaus,
Yes, all going well.
Some notes from today:

-I have removed the head bolts and CRC sprayed the manifold bolts ready for morning removal.
-The alloy thermostat's T40s are very tight and may giv me trouble. I can't budge them easily and am afraid of snapping them.
-I loosened the vvt solenoid's 8mm bolts because they seemed to bother the removal of the cover. Magically, the cover did come off soon after loosening them. Removing the vvt even partially did give me a chill, because I remember your words that there can be difficulty with that device and I wonder if I have damaged it.
-I made a mistake by not tying down the pulleys to the cover. I hadn't read your reply - darned time difference! It could be no damage was done, but the front pulley end did drop and roll from three inches onto the head top - a plonk and a roll. It might have been cushioned by the rubbery seal. Damned terrible workmanship in any case. What is interesting is when I set it back with the timing mark, the shaft seemed to return to a known place. Maybe it is the balance tending to that position.

Well, it is a big job. Will keep at it.
All best

The thermostat bolts are a pain. I remember using a T40 driver bit, a 2" extension on a 3/8 rachet. Pushing down very hard on the top of the ratchet, getting a very good purchase on the T40 head, I lightly tapped the end of the ratchet with a hammer (improvised impact wrench?) until the head moved just 1 mm. Then it came out easily. You don't want to strip the T40 head. Volvo changed the T40 to a 10mm bolt later on.

Dropping the cam is no big deal :>) I am not sure why the VVT cone gets in the way in the removal/install process, but you should be OK, so long as the 3 bolts are put back in the same position they were in before. The bolt holes are not round, so be careful.

Try not to break off the exhaust manifold bolts, then things get messy.

When you get the head off, you will notice 2 groves in each piston head. That is how much room these interference engines have for valve clearance. The grooves are there by design, not from valves hitting them.

You are doing great so far!
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

I have no idea how to budge this exhaust manifold. Got all bolts off back but it won't move. My guess is the turbocharger stopping it and has to come partially off ...

Unlike NA cars where the flexpipe is usually enough to allow movement, the turbo is in the way. Now you have to soak the bolts where the exhaust ataches to the turbo and undo them. There may or may not be a gasket between the exhaust and turbo. Your flex pipe is on the down pipe after the turbo.

And there is no #$%^$ room to get in there!!
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Hello,
Thank you
bolts off that trying to move it to the side off the bolts seems caught
will keep trying
can I pry off the ex manifold from the head body to help give some movement?

The turbo to exhaust pipe should remain in place. Are the turbo and
manifold pipe 'welded' together? That may take a small hit with a hammer to
get apart (means that there is no gasket in your car).

You could carefully pry the manifold, there is a gasket which needs to be
replaced anyway.

Klaus

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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

There's a plate holding on the exhaust manifold to by the bottom. It's a small vertical plate so I took out a 13mm but under that is a larger bolt or nut holding the plate. Next to it is another one. Seems like a mount object. I'm afraid if I move it ...

Darn newer cars! The plate is probably to help install the manifold correctly at the factory. I have not encountered that on USA engines.

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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

Yeah, I am pretty gutted.
I very much doubt the rings have survived to give my wife and family another pleasant daily commute.
Photos :(

if you ask me I'd say the gasket was okay.
Lots of water streamed out the back and was not getting to engine topside.
I wonder if it ain't the gasket but the pipe back there carrying coolant burst.

I had just renewed my bevel/angle gear oil, trans oil, oil pump seals; my throttle was good and PCV system new - maybe the pressure grew from too much torque or something. It certainly had heaps of grunt even up to when it died.

I have seen engine blocks in breaker yards looking better than this one. Sad to say, but it appears to be burned toast. A used engine is all this car needs, but the cost may be too high for a 1998. What a shame!

Time for a few beers...

BTW, if you don't need AWD, don't bother getting one in your next family car. I have come to the realization and age that if I 'need' AWD, then I shouldn't be on the road anyway. Let the road crews plow the roads before I get out there. Traction control and ABS should be enough for most of us.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

With regard to Volvo strength: I did (have to) drive around 35 rural miles more without coolant going to the head.
I had my son in the car and in the end we were safe, but Volvo burned to a cinder. I have to thank the car in this case for not ditching me (as so many British cars were apt to do in my younger days.)

I was originally thinking that many cases can't blame the driver for these events. This car had 90k miles on it when bought yet in the past 20k miles with the help from people on websites, I have done:
timing belt, pulley and tensioner
bevel gear angle gear oil
seals in sump
filters air and oil
ran semi synthetic
crankcase ventilation
trans oil
brakes
ABS resolder

I wonder if (I let the) water pump fail because I didn't replace that. :o

I might add for the technical aspect that the head off didn't need many tools.
The head remove was roadside. It took 1/4 and 1/2 sockets mostly 10,12, and 13 mm - 1/2 inch; screwdrivers and star torxes.
I did learn a new technique for getting off the hose clamps. I break off with screwdriver and hammer. It worked twice and is quick and painless, placing driver flat point to the top clamp bit side on and give a firm but not too hard smack and it pops open.

I have recently received the DICE VIDA in the mail.
I did peek at a few 'dodgy' Volvos out there. They are getting old these cars and need maintenance. There are three around here with trans issues. Armed with the OBD software the shops use, I could detect and fix.
I might take my OBD handheld around and see what I can do.
There's a one lady owner 1996 960 6 cyl for sale reasonably priced. It seems to have good interior.
Confidence can get pretty high. Hope to write again soon. Thanks for the help yesterday. That is, my yesterday, your today! I hope it is a sunny Thursday in (if memory serves) Michigan.

I doubt that the water pump failed, they usually last for over 200K miles. A ruptured seal on the water line to the turbo is a possible, but I think secondary consequence of the overheated head.

The head gasket 'looked' good, but rust caused by water in the cyl walls say otherwise. Of course that could have been from steam.

In any case, find a good car! And not all early 5 speed automatics fail due to solenoids, which are a bear to get to. It is the programming and cooling that messed up the trannies.

Lots of luck now that summer is coming for you,

Klaus
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

You won't believe this, Klaus, the head shop gave the all clear for the block. It is costing me a little for the shave of the head and valve re-seat. Wife seems upset because she won't get her Toyota.
So, I am putting it back together again.
I sat inside and appreciated the leather tonight. Made me feel good about keeping her/him.
The car.

The head gasket was totally kaput. It was almost disintegrated completely. But the rust, with the green steely pad scratchy thing basically hones the cylinders new!
Recommend, Don't throw these motors away if you can help it.

Have your shop replace all of the valve guides, they wear out at around 175K miles anyway. Worn valve guides will not harm the engine, but they will allow oil to pass into the manifold and that leads to oil consumption and dirty cat converters/sensors.

The amount of rust in the cylinder bores had me discouraged. I have never seen that much before. You are correct about the 5 cyl blocks, they are quite hardy and I have seen factory score marks on cylinder bores with over 200K miles in the engine - absolutely amazing.

Nothing wrong with a boring Toyota, my brother loves them and drives them over 200K miles before getting another. I find them uncomfortable and the handling too slow.

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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

If the forward seals do not leak, do NOT replace them. Removing the VVT is an extremely hard task and not taken lightly. The rear seals can be replaced, but they can also be replaced at a later time quite easily with the cams inplace.

No, the front seals can not be replaced without removing the VVT or the sprockets. A heavy duty cam locking tool, as shown by Packard8 is needed to remove and install the VVT and is done by holding the back ends of the cams in place.
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My back feels better when I sit in a Volvo seat

This is the tool you need:

http://www.amazon.com/Camshaft-Crankshaft-Alignment-Locking-Cylinder/dp/B00AVLU3ZK/ref=sr_1_25?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1413242819&sr=1-25&keywords=camshaft+holding+tool

I thought it was reasonable and worked well -- includes the 'press' things to remove and compress the cam cover and a crankshaft index tool to get the crank at the correct position. I just did the cam seals -- no headgasket yet.

'98 V70 5-speed 377k 1 owner