Hey all! SO excited to be back after an 8 year hiatus! Strayed to Subaru and regretting it right now. Headed back to a real car, which is why I need some help.

I've owned lots of 240s and early 850s. I'm in desperate need of reliable and practical transportation. I just found a 2001 V70 T5 with a manual transmission. I've always longed for such a car. It has 228k but entirely new top end and lots of other stuff done by a local and reputable Volvo shop.

Work done...
1. Head gasket
2. valves (not sure about guides, looking into details)
3. timing belt
4. water pump
5. clutch
6. bored to clean up cylinders (broken spark plug)
7. new rings (not sure about pistons, looking into details)
8. exterior is in excellent condition
9. has some IPD stuff, grill, maybe other (still working on the exact details)
10. interior isn't great, but its not bad at all
11. newer (used) transmission, done around 180k(?)

I have little knowledge of there cars/engines relative to what I know about 240s. So my concerns are as follows...

1. Should I be worried about the bottom end of the engine with the current miles?
2. Status of turbo is unknown. Hoping for more details from seller. At 228k can I assume its not original? Is it suspect? Expensive fix?
3. Possibly lowered. I mentioned IPD stuff. The front end looks really low. Looks cool but I live on a long gravel driveway with lots of potholes. I would scrape going down it. Is swapping to stock springs a lot of work?
4. Anything else?

Price is $4000. And no, I won't tell you where to find the car. :-)

I know there's a wealth of knowledge on this site. You folks have been awesome and helped me thru head jobs, transmission swaps and a myriad of other stuff. I'm really excited to be back.

Thanks a ton!
Ben

I just saw this on Autotrader.com

http://www.autotrader.com/cars-for-sale/vehicledetails.xhtml?endYear=2001&zip=55331&keywordPhrases=T5&listingType=used&listingTypes=used&transmissionCode=MAN&transmissionCodes=MAN&mmt=%5BVOLVO%5BV70%5B%5D%5D%5B%5D%5D&modelCode1=V70&makeCode1=VOLVO&startYear=2001&showcaseOwnerId=55236152&searchRadius=0&listingId=357032039&listingIndex=2&Log=0

I know, there is no history, but there is a trailer hitch. And, most unusual, cloth interior!

Sounds like a youngster owned the 'go fast' car. He probably installed multiprong irridium spark plugs and one or more of the tips fell off and got stuck in an exhaust valve. Lots of work to fix. I would have the shop give me a printout of the compression on all 5 cylinders, just to be safe.

It is still a lot of money for the miles, depending on how well it was kept up.

To raise the car, you have to get new springs and struts/shocks. Not a cheap thing. If it has those low profile 18" wheels and 40 bias tires, that will also lower the car a bit.

As much as I like shifting my 850 NA car, I don't think the T5 would make for a very good commuter in its present state. And, WHY was the tranny replaced? The manual is bullet proof, the clutch usually lasting around 200K.

Personally, I would shop some more.

Actually the car is a 1-owner vehicle which came to the US throught the factory delivery program. I made the assumption that this individual would be older and more responsible than the younger racer type you are referring to. With that said, the owner could certainly have had a younger son (or daughter) who got the car from dad (or mom) and made the mods, drove the pants of it and never changed the title.

The car is on very ugly stock wheels right now. The car looks virtually identical to this one, color, wheels but minus euro rails. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:2nd_Volvo_V70.jpg It could certainly been riding on AM 18in wheels at some point though.

I did not realize new springs meant new struts. Is that always the case? FYI... the back seems to be riding at the stock height, or at least has much less of a drop.

Do you think I should be concerned about the lower end of the motor (bearings etc.)? How about the turbo?

Thanks again,
Ben

Shorter 'sport' springs require different length shocks, they are inside of the springs. If the rear is still 'normal', then the owner cheated and wanted a quarter mile car, not something that handles well in curve. Easy enough to verify, just meansure from the center cap to the top of the wheel well. The front and rear should have the same measurement, within 1/2 inch or so.

Valve guides shouldn't be a problem, it is the valve stem seals that get old and allow vapor/oil to pass through to the cylinder. Ask if all of the valves have been replaced, not just the damaged ones - remember, there are 20 of them.

New valves would require guides and seals.

The turbo is no big deal. The Mitsubishi will last as long as the rest of the engine. The internal oil seal in the intake side tends to wear and pushes a very small amout of air/oil into the intake stream after about 80K or so. Most T5 owners install a 17G turbo for more boost.

The block/crank/pistons should be good. I would still ask for a compression test readout, I don't trust boring cylinders and rings. Is that for all cylinders, or just the damaged one??? The oil light should go out immediately after engine start, no waiting at all.

Remember, Volvo fixed the rusty body panel issues in about 1993 by galvanizing both sides - no more rust! I have a 1996 850 that has lived in the rust belt and parked outside most of its life and in city parking - no body rust.

Take the T5M for a 30 minute test drive. Check the steering carefully. Make sure the heating controls work as new - set a temperature before starting the engine and see if the unit complies with the request. You should get heat within 1 mile.
Listen for noises in the front and rear. Ask for a scanner readout if you live in an inspection state, all 3 systems should be complete and no faults.

It's true... I would really like a T5M :>) just for the occasional times when I am at the head of the line at a traffic light. Perhaps, if a 2000 T5M comes my way...