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Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

Hello all,

I have great news to report.

I started down this long road some time ago when I pulled my bevel gear to be 'inspected' and the trans shop cut all the bearings apart and ruined it. I then started the process of researching for a DIY rebuild. And I can report to you today that I've done this successfully.

First let's start with the 'exploded view' diagrams I found.

From somewhere (???):



1998 VADIS :



2001 VADIS :



2003 VADIS :




You can see from the images that they show different levels of detail and some of the diagrams show things not seen on others. I was working on a 1998 car so I was only guessing that the info on the diagrams for the newer models would work out to be the same or close enough for my application. As it turns out this was mostly a safe assumption.

Here's my final parts list, including the cross reference to the various diagrams:


|------- diagram # ---------|
??? 1998 2001 2003 Part Description OEM # Manufacturer #
Bearing - Main Shaft Side #1 SKF 32010X
Bearing - Main Shaft Side #2 SKF 32010X
2 Bearing - Pinion - Inner 183841 SKF HM89449
3 Spacer 3502104
4 6 14 Sleeve - Collapse 8689678
5 Bearing - Pinion - Outer 183839 SKF M86647
6 7 5 7 Seal - Pinion - Outer 9183891
7 8 Collar - Pinion 9143889
8 9 2 8 Flange - Pinion 9183961
9 2 15 Seal - Thru Axle - Pass Side 9143885
10 3 3 3 Seal - Main Shaft - Pass Side 30735126
11 4 12 4 O-Ring - Main Shaft - Trans Side 977023
12 6 7 6 Drain Plug 6549308
13 5 10 5 Crush Washer (Same as oil drain) 11998
14 15 Seal - Trans - thru axle 9143885
3 3 Seal - Main Shaft - Trans Side 30735126
13 O-Ring - Main Shaft - Trans Side 976041
10 8 9 Lock Nut - Pinion 3549685
19 Collar - Trans to BG 9495034
18 Seal - Trans - Outer Collar 9496129
Bearing Cup - Pinion HM89410
Bearing Cup - Pinion M86610


I didn't buy the pinion collar (9143889) or pinion flange (9183961) as there did not appear to be anything wrong with my originals.

I didn't replace the Trans to BG collar (9495034). This is the piece which transfers power from the trans to the gear and other sites report its high failure rate, but mine showed none of the signs of failure so I reused it to save the money. It won't be the end of the world if I have to go in and replace it later as it doesn't require replacing any seals or anything like that - you just take the BG down and pull it out.

I also didn't replace the pinion bearing spacer (3502104) or the pinion collapse sleeve (8689678). I had a buddy who is a heavy equipment mechanic (marine, trucking, gen sets, etc) who has some experience rebuilding gear boxes and differentials, and he said that he has gotten into the habit of NOT replacing the collapse sleeve unless there are very very good specs on exactly how to do it and to what torque, etc. I did BUY a new collapse sleeve, but I bought it before talking to him about it. This part was very hard to come by and I had to wait for ~4 weeks to get it - the dealer parts guy told me there were only 2 in North America...

Incidentally, there is another bearing spacer for one of the main shaft bearings (32010X) as well, but it's not listed on any of these diagrams.

I didn't replace the drain plug (6549308) and I used a crush washer from my oil change stock (this crush washer is very useful on these cars - oil drain plug, trans drain plug, bevel gear drain plug, rear diff drain plug - WOW!).

I didn't get a new pinion lock nut (3549685) but I SHOULD have. I understand these are not supposed to be reused. Because I didn't have a new one, I used the old one. It seems to be working fine.

I did replace the main shaft trans side o-ring (977023) but I don't think it was necessary. The old one was in great shape and it doesn't seem like it's actually used for 'sealing' anything, it just provides a rubber cushion for the trans to bg collar (9495034) so it doesn't harshly bump up against the actual internal bevel gear main shaft oil seal (30735126) which does the actual sealing. There is another o-ring that seems to perform the same function on the other side in the trans, and it probably is the same part #.

There was some confusion about what seal to use around the outside of the trans to bevel gear power transfer collar. Originally the dealer sent me a 8636194 but it was too big (by millimeters). You'll notice that is the seal listed for the newer model years. When I called again the parts guy was finding it hard to make out the diagram in VIDA but he did end up sending me the right seal (9496129). Your mileage may vary on this one.

I got the main shaft bearings ( SKF brand, paid ~$40 CAN) at a local bearing dealer. I paid a bit more for them there than I would have online (Rock Auto, FCP, others) but I didn't have to pay shipping and that ended up making the cheaper locally.

Same deal on the pinion bearings, but those ones were available from Timken ( still a very good brand but cheaper). The pinion bearings needed the inner 'cups' ordered separately and these part numbers were not readily available from the Volvo literature. I had to actually read the numbers off the old 'cups'.
- HM89410
- M86610


Some of the old bearings came off quite hard even after soaking in penetrating fluid for weeks. BIG bearing pullers are needed and a vice and a nice set of cold chisels will be required, as well as a steady hand. Firm, not brutish force. All the bearing mating surfaces were cleaned thoroughly and lightly sanded before putting the new bearings in place.

All bearings fit on using the standard heat-to-expand and freezer-to-shrink methods. Anything that needed to shrink was put in the deep freeze and anything that needed to expand was put in the oven at ~300deg. You don't need to worry about damaging anything in the freezer, but you can melt the bearing cages and start to overheat the fine bearing surfaces if you get them too hot so don't go over 300deg.

Turning the 'crown ring' was very hard to accomplish. This is the strange 'nut' that fits into the pass side of the bevel gear that provides the tension on the main shaft bearings. We fashioned a piece of metal so that it had a two pronged 'fork' on one end and a 'slot' in the middle so that the 'fork' would fit over the crown bits on one side and the slot would fit over the crown bits on the other side and the 'handle' bit would protrude past the end. This allowed us to strike the 'handle' and apply force to 4 crown bits at once. There are probably any number of tools you could build for this but do build something - beating on only one 'bit' at a time WILL break them off (happened - luckily the o-ring is directly behind it and our break didn't protrude past the o-ring). This should be soaked with penetrating fluid to lubricate the o-ring so that it will slide more easily. When reinstalling we couldn't get the crown ring to turn, until we lubed it with silicone and then it spun right away. Get some lube in there for taking it off and lube it up with silicone for assembly.

The crown-ring o-ring was COMPLETELY toasted on mine. Brittle and stiff. It was leaking a bit before and I can see why. The new o-ring will be much better.

There is no traditional 'gasket' between the two halves of the case, and a sealant needed to be selected. A local company sells Loctite products and we found one for "aluminum flanges" which my experienced buddy recommended from his marine experience. I no longer have the bottle, but from a quick search online it looks like maybe it was Loctite 518?? Your local supply company will be able to help you out with this. The main point is that it is a THIN sealer. I was going to use a silicone sealer like what might be used for forming DIY oil pan or valve cover gaskets, but I have been informed that this approach would have made a gasket that was too thick. Or perhaps it would have squished out from in between the case halves completely. At any rate, there are products out there for sealing cases like this, and we used an anaerobic Loctite flange sealant product, something like (though possibly not actually) Loctite 518.

http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_us/hs.xsl/product-search-1554.htm?iname=Loctite+518+Gasket+Eliminator+Flange+Sealant&countryCode=us&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=0000000HWT

http://au.iloctite.com/en/gasketing-material-from-loctite



I have over 100 miles on the newly installed BG and I just reinstalled the prop shaft today with no noises or vibrations at all, so it seems like everything has gone well. I hope I get lots of service out of this thing now.

The Trans shop wanted ~$800 to do this job - parts and labour.

I got all the parts (including the ones I didn't use) for ~$250.

All the original bearings were SKF and all the original seals were NOK. My local bearing supply company could source all of them for me except the strange trans collar seal (9496129) which had what looked like a valid NOK number on it but didn't actually show up in there system, which is why I ended up getting it from the Volvo dealer.

I hope this helps someone else out there. These boxes ARE re-buildable and this job IS DIY-able.


--
1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+





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    Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

    Old thread but good info.

    The pinion bearings in the angle gear packed it in at 325K kms on my 2000 V70-XC 2.4L I5 Turbo (build date: 10/99 , with the later style engine that takes the 142 tooth timing belt).

    I got a couple used units for cheap from PicnPull, an 01 and an 04. My 2000 angle gear was much harder to remove because the casting has a deeper sump on it, there is a steering rack mount protruding from the crossmember and a couple of hard mounted aluminum lines are in the way. I ended up removing the oil cooler from the back of the oil pan and jacking the engine up to be able to work the angle gear free. Both the later cars it was a matter of just unbolting the angle gear and wiggling it around a little to get it out.

    Anyway here are a couple of practical observations for those contemplating an angle gear swap:
    1. The case dimensions appear to be the same, with the exception of the deeper sump on the 2000.
    2. The 2000 and 2001 share the same larger (~84 mm OD) output flange. The 2004 output flange is ~74 mm OD.
    3. The 2001 and 2004 share the same input sleeve, which sticks into the transmission about 7mm further (the sleeve is longer) and has a larger ID on the transmission side spline, and a seal that runs on the CV axle shaft in the middle.
    3. The angle gear side of all three sleeves are identical.
    So in my case just using the 2000 input sleeve with the 2001 angle gear assembly lets me bolt it right in. The output flanges appear to be interchangeable so I could also use the 2004 with one of the earlier style output flanges.

    Hope this info helps someone out.





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    Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 2000

    I read this and other BG rebuild posts from you and really enjoyed them all.
    I had to remove my BG from 2000 XC (build in late 1999) because as it turned out after I took it apart the conical bearing nearest to the output flange) was completely destroyed inside.
    The car would make an awful noice when driven naturally as the flange was just feeling really floppy inside, moving in and out and sideways without the bearing int the bearing cup.
    So i removed the drive-shaft and the BG for now.
    I do want to have and AWD as the snow season is approaching.

    When i bought the car I was given another BG which, unfortunately, does not fit my car as it's the one from 1998-1999 (not the early 1998 and not the later 2000, sadly). This one feels very tight and after taking it apart i looked at all the bearings and they are fine. It just needs to be cleaned, resealed, and filled with liquid.

    I did try to use the same conical bearing closest to the output flange from 1998-1999 BG on my 2000 BG, but they were different, as was the bearing cup in the same place.

    I would like to buy this bearing and maybe the other 2 conical bearings and just rebuild the unit, as everything else looks fine to me (that includes the driveshaft as well).

    How do i figure out the part number for the bearing as I could not read it off the bearinga, because it was shredded to pieces.

    Really appreciate your answer.





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      Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 2000

      ******* Update*********

      A further complication: The angle drive units come with at least two different drive ratios, and as luck would have it the one from my 2000 is a 3.31:1 ratio while both the 2001 and 2004 are 2.62:1.





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        Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 2000

        Looked at the 98-99 angle gears, found one with the ratio I need (3.31 to 1) but the case is bigger, about an inch wider, so at a minimum would have to use the 98-99 pass side axle shaft and the driveshaft would be ~1/2 in toward the passenger side. Also the pinion is longer and the driveshaft flange ends up being about 1 1/2 inches further back so would need a different driveshaft length, potentially the 98-99, but I did not investigate. The longer pinion shaft means it will not work in one of the smaller cases so I can't swap the ring and pinion into a newer style case. Installing the bigger case in my 2000 would also require unbolting the exhaust from the manifold.

        So now I'm hunting for a 2000 or newer unit with the right gear ratio.





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      Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 2000

      I am not really sure what to tell you. Start doing some research online and just eat up all the info you can. I kept a spreadsheet to organize all the info I dug up, but unfortunately for you I only kept info that was directly applicable to my situation with the early 1998 model.

      If you find someone at a Volvo dealer who is willing to cooperate they actually /can/ look this stuff up in VIDA. I have a copy of VADIS and it is less than helpful in this regard.

      For any bearings that you can get out without damaging too badly you should be able to read the part numbers off the side.

      For those that can't be read you'll have to rely on helpful parts folks (FCP has been very helpful with me) and on measuring. I found my local bearings supplier was quite helpful and we were able to stumble through most things together. Just take in all your parts and be ready to spend some time in there measuring things and explaining the situation. A Decent vernier caliper in the hands of an experienced bearings guy will get you a long way.

      The same comments apply to seals, and bearings suppliers will be able to get you seals as well.

      I found it was generally cheaper to get the bearings from my local supplier anyway once shipping was factored in.

      Good luck and let me know if I can be of any further help.

      --
      1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+





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    Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

    That is great news - only sorry I hadn't seen it before I disposed of my BG and committed to FWD!





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      Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

      I know its a bunch of work, but have you considered grabbing one from a junkyard and rebuilding it? At most it'd be 150 (assuming they realize its a 'transfer case' but its likely you can negotiate down to 20-30.. go first and ask how much when you give vague explanation of what it is (large hunk of metal, part of the transmission..), then hold them to the $20 they quote ya! .. )

      Then again you took the BG off, who knows what else you'd have to replace and what kind of hassle it'd become...
      --
      If you're not driving it "like its stolen," are you really driving?





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      Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

      oh dear that's too bad.

      You did the bevel gear 'delete' like I did earlier then? what did you do with your old gear? Throw it away?
      --
      1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+





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        Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

        Yes, I tossed it but not before checking with some local machine shops about a rebuild - they all said no. Still have my VC but no driveshaft either - Colorado Driveshafts told me they won't rebuild the 2000 part. I'm curious about the comment regarding the engine mount. I hadn't considered the extra wear and tear on the other mounts - will have to watch for it. So far, have driven for a year (30K km) with no obvious impact. I have missed the AWD from time to time as I live in the land of snow. My car is a 2000 v70 XC SE (191K km) and many of the drivetrain parts are unique to this year even though the model spans 98-2000.





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          Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

          Yeah Volvo changed their minds a few times over those first few years. For instance the early 98 AWDs (and there were even some 97s in Europe!) use a different bevel gear. I think I have determined that the only thing different is the internal gear ratio is a bit different. To my mind that doesn't sound like a big deal because of the VC - it would just either bias a little more or less torque to the rear end... Maybe not though. Anyway I got mine back together!

          I think if I were to have my BG out of the car again I would try to rig up something to sit on that little bump-stop/pseudo-mount that the BG rests on. Since my BG is back in my engine vibrations are WAY down (though admittedly I put in a new mount) and also a recurring P0133 has dissapeard! I think the exhaust was flexing too much and causing a leak. With the exhaust not flexing it's not leaking!! That's my theory anyway....
          --
          1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+





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    Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

    Glad to see that you did it with success.

    I have just 2 questions. My bevel gear on my 1998 does not have a drain plug, neither does the rear diff. I wound up drilling a drain hole in the casing of the BG box just to make things easier.

    The BG and diff for the USA cars do not have drain plugs, which really puzzles me. Why do Canadians get better parts?

    Klaus





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      Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

      Sorry about that, I meant to say the crush washer works on the bevel gear /fill/ plug and the rear diff /fill/ plug. My bad. Good catch.

      My BG also did not have a drain plug - I installed one as you did by drilling a hole in the back of the middle 'vibration damper' stud hole.

      I did end up draining the diff fluid even though there is no drain by siphoning and here's how I did it:
      - took the car for a good long highway drive
      - lifted driver's rear of car and removed fill plug
      - fed a small vinyl tube down to the bottom of the diff
      - used my fluid transfer suction device (works sort of like a bicycle pump) to suck some fluid out of the diff filling the vinyl tube
      - placed end of tube into drain pan and let the fluid actually siphon out!! Because it was so hot it just siphoned right out!!

      I was really impressed that this worked. It was by far the easiest way I've come up with to get that fluid out.

      I replaced it with AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W-90 + AMSOIL Slip Lock limited slip additive. I'm not actually a big AMSOIL fan but based on this whitepaper it seemed like it was a really solid product and it wasn't expensive so I went for it.


      --
      1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+





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        Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

        Great info!

        1) Can the BG and Diff be accessed w/o a lift?

        2) Is the additive required?

        Thanks!





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          Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

          I'm assuming you're asking about the fluid changes.

          Yes they can both easily have their fluid changed without a lift. Will will definitely need a good jack (I have one for "SUV"s so it has a high lift of I think 22") and 2 jack stands.

          I usually put the passenger side up to change the bevel gear fluid because the studs (and thus the make-shift drain) face that way.

          I usually put the driver's side up to change the rear diff fluid because the fill plug is on that side.

          I have read conflicting reports about the limited slip additive requirement. I think I read in the 1998 V90 user's manual that the limited slip additive is required. I think I read in the RWD FAQ on this site that the Eaton locker used in these diffs does NOT require the limited slip additive. I put it in for good measure, as I'm pretty sure that it won't affect anything adversely if it isn't needed, but it would be a problem if it was needed and I didn't use it.

          I am not sure if there would be any real damage from not using the limited slip additive or not - it will help eliminate "locking shudder" but I don't know if "locking shudder" is detrimental or just annoying.


          --
          1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+





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    problems with bevel gear removal V70-XC70 1998

    One thing I forgot to mention in my first post is the problem I had with my bevel gear removed.

    On my 1998 (it may be different on the newer cars) the firewall-side main engine mount found on the FWD models is not present. The bevel gear is attached to the transmission and rests on a 'ledge' with a rubber bump stop on top of it. In this way it sort of acts like an engine mount but obviously it's not as good as one of the real hydraulic mounts like the FWD has.

    With the bevel gear removed, the radiator-side hydraulic main engine mount is taking up all the slack. Also I don't think the mounts are very good at withstanding 'pull' forces - ie: being pulled up as opposed to being pushed down on. The radiator-side mount received much more 'pull' forces with the bevel gear gone, and it received more stress in general with nothing there to hold the other side of the block steady.

    Needless to say this ruined my radiator-side main engine mount. I think it took about 10 months or so.

    When I replaced the bevel gear with my newly rebuilt unit, I replaced the engine mount with a URO mount from FCP. It seems well constructed and it feels good. I'll report back on it's service after I've had it a while.

    To replace the radiator-side engine mount you pretty much need to remove the radiator fam + fan shroud. This was not too difficult but was time consuming.

    Don't jack the engine up too much or you'll ruin the other mounts and/or drive axles.

    --
    1998 V70 AWD->FWD Turbo 200k+





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    Successful Bevel Gear Rebuild V70-XC70 1998

    Many thanks for posting this. I actually had to move my 98 v70 to light duty after the bevel gear gave up recently on my wife's wagon at about 190k miles. I actually ended up buying my first non volvo in many years...

    In my case it was making an awful grinding noise when turning. For now, I have disconnected the driveshaft, but want to get into the gear and check it out.
    I do have a spare gear from a 1999, it has a different flange on the output. Some guys in VS suggested changing the flange and I think I will do that, and that's where the sleeve would come into play...
    I will open up the spare one and re-seal, install the vent and all that.





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