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As far as I know (and that's not too far!), if the ABS module you received is in good order, any codes set as a result of the old faulty one should clear with the new one. It may take a day of driving or so. Assuming you have an ODBII reader, you should be able to clear most any code that trips the MIL (check engine light), even if it's only for a short cycle before whatever the problem it is trips it again. If it does come on again, you might have a problem unrelated to the ABS module (assuming the one you got is good). You most certainly got a refurbished module that someone, like you, sent in and it's certainly well within reason that the rebuilt one may not be 100%. That being said, these models/year are after all notorious for tranny troubles. If I recall, the tranny codes that set in relation to the ABS have to do with the RPM sensor and output shaft/drive axle. I might be wrong there, or incomplete but if the codes are related to that, then I'd suspect the module or it's harness first.
Now, I'm only saying this because I have dealt with Victor Rocha, and thus the basis of my experience here, but his modules aren't just soldered, but tested and electronically upgraded (so I understand), and have a five year warranty (that's what it was when he did mine). Hopefully the company you used provides a similar warranty.
You're job at hand is to determine if it is the module, a separate fault (starting with whatever the code suggests), or perhaps something that may have happened when you re-installed it. The harnesses (or the unknowing failure of the installer to properly connect it) on these units are often associated with complaints that the rebuilt modules are "bad", when actually they're fine. The coupling on these units are not only very sensitive but fragile as well and the connector must be procedurally/specifically correct in the way they are positioned, connected and firmly locked. Once locked the harness must be tugged and wiggled without any discernible looseness or movement. This is actually the most important and perhaps the trickiest part of the reinstall. There are MANY cases where even good mechanics (but inexperienced on this particular connector) have done a poor job on this point and have unknowingly broken the locking tabs off this easily damaged connector, which generally results in a contact that seems "reasonably" tight but yet inefficient enough to produce continuing warning light problems and nightmare diagnosis' with the car ending up back at the dealer. Un-properly locked harnesses can also result in sufficient exposure that can oxidize the contacts as well producing similar problems months down the road.
I'm not saying this IS it, but it's a known issue and maybe a place to look.
If these codes do require some specific connection to VADIS to test and clear them, which I doubt, Klaus or a lurking Volvo tech may be able to let you know that. It would help to post the specific codes.
Hope this helps.
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