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I was looking under hood to see where coolant is leaking when I heard something dropped to the ground. It was 30mm nut. It was warm. I don't know where it is from.
The car is 1996 960. The car seems fine. I drive it every day. There are not many 30mm nuts in the car. Please help!
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The only large nut I know of under the hood is the one holding the harmonic balancer to the crank shaft. Did you check to see if yours is still intact?
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Yes!!!
You were right. This is the nut (nut holding the harmonic balancer). Now I have to go to the dealer to tighten it. How much should they charge for this?
Thank you.
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Thank you. I'll try to check it today. If only I know where is it.
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It should be easy to check. There is a space between the front of the engine and the electric cooling fan on the radiator. You'll see the serpintine belt on the front of the engine. The belt goes around the pully at the bottom of the engine. There should be a large nut inside the pully holding it to the engine (crankshaft, actually).
If you can't see it clearly, just stick your hand (engine not running, of course) inside the pully and see if you feel a nut, or if you feel only the threads of the shaft where the nut is supposed to be.
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Dear Robert,
Good p.m. and may this find you well. I don't own and have never worked on a 960.
Accordingly the Volvo Pocket Data Booklet - Cars: 700,850,900 (1991-1996), the torque specification for the vibration damper center nut on B6xxx engines is:
300 nM / 222 pound feet.
This is - by nearly a factor of two - the most torque needed on any fastener on these cars, including suspension components.
A super-heavy duty torque wrench will be required, to tighten this nut.
If it is the vibration damper (crank pulley) nut, it is hard to imagine how it "worked loose", unless someone loosened it, and neglected to re-torque it to spec, or did not have a torque wrench with enough capacity to re-torque it.
In either case, I'd recommend having this done at the dealer. Someone there will have the proper torque wrench, and be able to do it right.
Were the crank pulley to work loose, the alternator, water pump, and power steering stop working pretty quickly.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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Wow, that's a LOT-222ft/lbs!
The most I've seen if for front wh drive axle nut @ ~180ft/lbs.
--
Norm Cook Vancouver BC; 1989 745T 204,000KM
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Dear Norm,
Good p.m. and hope this finds you well. I agree. I double-checked with a later version of the Volvo Pocket Data Booklet, which covers cars through the 1998 model year. The spec - on page 47 - is the same: 300nM = 200 pound/feet.
Even if I had a torque wrench with that capacity, I'd have to rent a gorilla, to tighten the nut.
I suppose that the same Volvo employee - who tightened the nut that holds the tranny filler tube to the pan - also tightens the B6xxx engine crank pulley nut. I'd guess this fellow stood 7' tall (210 cm) and weighed 400 lbs (180 Kg) - all muscle.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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Yes!!!
You were right. This is the nut (nut holding the harmonic balancer). Now I have to go to the dealer to tighten it. How much should they charge for this?
Thank you.
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Dear Sekal,
Good p.m. and may this find you well. I'd have thought that this will take a Volvo MasterTech about 30 mins. Most of the time will be spent immobilizing the crankshaft. As I don't know where you're located, it is hard to estimate the price.
I'm not sure, how to "lock" the crankshaft on a B6xxx engine. On a B230F engine, it would take me about 15 minutes, presuming I can access the underside.
Once the crankshaft is immobilized, it should take about a minute or two to retorque the nut, presuming they have someone strong enough to do it.
Do not let anyone use an air wrench on the crankbolt or crank nut!!! Ask, before you sign anything, how they will re-torque the crank nut. If they say they want to use an air wrench (impact wrench) insist they sign a release, undertaking to pay for the cost of replacing the engine, if they break-off the end of the crankshaft.
A crankshaft is an extremely strong piece of forged and machined, top-quality steel. Even so, if too much force is used, it is possible to snap off the end. That trashes the entire engine: changing a crankshaft means dismantling the bottom part of the engine.
I'd sure like to know, how that nut came loose. Did you recently have the crank pulley or timing belt replaced? If so, whoever did that work, may have forgotten to re-torque the nut properly or at all. If that's the case, go back to them, and ask them to re-torque the nut, to spec: 300 nM or 222 pound/feet.
Hope this helps.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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Dear Spook.
Thank you very much for info.
I bought this car 2 months ago; don't know anything about the past. I live in Chicago. I called Volvo dealer they refused to do the job. Another place "EuroAuto" they sad it will take 10min~10$ to tighten this nut if nothing else is wrong. I'm going to see them on Monday.
Thank you.
Sekal.
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Dear Sekal,
Good a.m. and may this find you well. You're welcome.
Did the Volvo dealer explain, in some detail, why they wouldn't do this?
This refusal is extraordinary: this is - after all - a simple task.
Are you sure they understood, what you need them to do? I'd speak to the director of the service department, and get a detailed explanation of their refusal.
It is sometimes the case, that a Volvo dealer will send body work and transmission work to an independent shop. However, dealers should be prepared to do everything else.
I think Chris is quite right: do not drive the car, until the crank nut has been re-torqued. Have the car moved - on a flat-bed truck. Make sure that the engine is not started - do NOT turn over the key to anyone - until the nut has been torqued to spec. Do not let the tow-truck driver turn on the engine, even for a minute.
Give written instructions that an air wrench/impact wrench is NOT to be used. If possible, watch the work being done.
Post back with your results.
Yours faithfully,
spook
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I drove the car to EuroAutoPlex. (I was driving car for 3 days without this nut, another 3 miles will not make a gifference.) Mechanic re-torqued the nut. I watched him doing it. Everything went smooth. They charged me 40$ (for 15 min). I can conclude this nut is unnecessary part on the car :). I'll post if this nut fall again. Thank you All.
Sekal.
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posted by
someone claiming to be johnwr
on
Tue Apr 5 02:40 CST 2005 [ RELATED]
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What method did the mechanic use to hold the crank?
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I'm sure this is stating the obvious but don't drive it there like that...
-Chris
--
Chris, Dartmouth NS Canada 70 M-B 280SE, 83 245DL, 84 244 turbo, 90 780 turbo, 92 VW Golf
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