Volvo: Brickboard RWD Forum

ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THIS IS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -posted by- carowner

Sat, 17 May 2008 05:21 GMT

http://www.164list.se/002028.html%0D%0A%0D%0Asteam engine maybe?

ANYBODY KNOW WHAT THIS IS!!!!!!!!!!!!!! -posted by- rstarkie

Sat, 17 May 2008 11:09 GMT

I believe it is a Volvo converted to use wood as fuel.%0D%0A%0D%0ASmoldering fire with burner full of wood drives off the gases in the wood which is inturn burned as fuel in the engine.%0D%0A%0D%0AI had no idea that it would take so much plumbing. I have not seen pictures of a wood burning vehicle before, just read about them. Years ago Mother Earth News had several articles about doing a conversion.%0D%0A%0D%0ARandy

[200] load fuel pump -posted by- 914phill

Fri, 16 May 2008 14:30 GMT

Is it normal to hear the rear fuel pump? Is it on it's way out?

[200] load fuel pump -posted by- Smitty

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:33 GMT

Maybe it's because my '92 240 is a wagon, but I got the car 8 years ago with 115K on it and I've always heard a fuel pump sound, but only faintly after startup. I was alarmed at first and anticipated pump failure, but it's been the same for 100K now so I think at least for *my* car it's normal. YMMV.%0A--%0AThank goodness we don't get all the government we pay for. -- Will Rogers

[200] load fuel pump -posted by- 914phill

Sat, 17 May 2008 11:09 GMT

Mine is also a wagon. Maybe its OK.

[200] Back again looking for a 200 series.... -posted by- boehm

Sat, 17 May 2008 06:43 GMT

So I thought I was smarter than Volvo. After stringing together a '97 F150, a '04 VW TDI (should have held on to that one) and now a '04 F150 I am ready to get back into the car that made me love cars. All those cars were within an 18 mo. period...should have bought a 240.%0D%0A%0D%0AI just bought a house and I am ready to take in a Volvo. I am in Dallas so if you are looking to offload; let me know! If not; anybody know a first owner (or second owner now, the 1988 is 20 years after their prime now!) %0D%0A%0D%0AFor everyone who dosen't have a solid 240 sitting around in the dallas area, are there any better sources than autotrader.com to find a ride? The last Volvo I had was a 740 and kept her until her front end went out 300K-ish.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks in advance!%0D%0A%0D%0A

[700] [1987] Spring and damper choices. -posted by- wolf_walker

Sat, 17 May 2008 05:32 GMT

87 740 turbo wagon.%0D%0A%0D%0ATrying to decide on springs and dampers for my wagon. %0D%0ADone a lot of reading, and I'm pretty torn which way to go still.%0D%0A%0D%0AI like the look of lowering a bit, there are lots of options for springs.%0D%0AThe concern is for one I tend to drive my cars like a truck, I don't care to slow down for speed bumps and train tracks, within reason. For two, as prone as these cars seem to be to front end shimmys and driveshaft vibration, I'm hesitant to muck with the factory suspension geometry. As it is now my slightly sagging rear has the driveshaft bumping a little on takeoff, and it's worse loaded. When the suspension is done if it's still there I will look into shimming the center support as Volvo advised, but I don't want to make it worse. IPD has the adjustable panhard rod to keep the rear centered at least, but a lot of people report problems with this. %0D%0A%0D%0ASo, 2nd thought.%0D%0AOverload springs for the rear. %0D%0AI like to be able to haul stuff. The factory rear springs are either toast or they were too soft to start with it seems to me. But, I don't think the Boge Turbo-Gas dampers I'm leaning toward can handle those springs, especially unloaded, I've found more than a few accounts of this. Even the $$$ Bilstien HD's aren't really up to it on the rebound damping, and I'm just not spending the money for adjustable Koni's or the like. FCP has some presumably softer overload springs by Moor or somebody, I can't find a lot fo input on them though.%0D%0AFor the front, which aren't sagging really but I want to replace them while I have it all apart as cheap as they are. I've wondered about the heavier factory springs, such as a diesel had, one of the parts sites lists spring wire diameter, I am yet to measure mine and see what it has from the factory. I don't really want to raise the front any though. I guess the semi-safe bet is just the scantech plain jane front springs, surely they can't screw up manufacturing a coil spring. %0D%0A%0D%0AEssentially I want stiffer springs all around with the stock ride height, that aren't too stiff for Boge Turbo-Gas dampers to be able to handle.%0D%0A%0D%0AOpinions, experience?

[200] How to remove tailgate 1988 245? -posted by- nomad77

Sat, 17 May 2008 05:27 GMT

I searched and can't find any info. Mines got a little rust on the bottom and I'm on the lookout for a later model one in the yards. I don't want to screw it up removing it if I find one thanks.

[140-160] rings for a164 -posted by- tex

Thu, 15 May 2008 00:19 GMT

iam in need of a place to get a set of rings for my 74 volvo 164,any help ,thanks johnny

[140-160] rings for a164 -posted by- tex

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:46 GMT

how much and when iam at dnj1219@yahoo.com,thankz

[140-160] rings for a164 -posted by- Rhys

Sat, 17 May 2008 05:25 GMT

If you could email me from my website, that would be great.%0D%0ARhys

Fluctuating temp gauge after cooling system fush. 240-1990 non turbo. -posted by- Lawrence

Fri, 16 May 2008 20:06 GMT

Gauge rides normally at one quarter, then goes to 3/4, then back to 1/4.%0D%0ADid this awhile back when I was pulling a grade, but hadnt been a problem since.%0D%0AAfter I flushed and refilled yesterday Im getting this eratic movement on the gauge regularly. Whats this about? Anyone? Any doesnt appear to be overheated.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks%0D%0A%0D%0ALawrence

Fluctuating temp gauge after cooling system fush. 240-1990 non turbo. -posted by- Chris Mullet

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:21 GMT

There may just be air trapped in the system. Make sure you keep the overflow bottle about half full and maybe after a couple warm-up and cool-down cycles it will work the air out. Also run it with the heater temp full on for a while.

Fluctuating temp gauge after cooling system fush. 240-1990 non turbo. -posted by- Lawrence

Sat, 17 May 2008 04:15 GMT

Thanks for the idea. I hope it works out that way. I think I will also pull the gauge.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks.%0D%0A

[200] The Trilogy continues- the no-spark dilemma has morphed onto the no-fuel dilemma for my diesel to gas conversion project -posted by- volvo245kit

Thu, 15 May 2008 10:31 GMT

Okay Guys, Here's the new thread and here's the deal. I've been converting%0D%0A%0D%0A an '82 245 D24 diesel to an '83 gas engine setup from a donor car. I've also%0D%0A%0D%0A incorporated several parts/systems from an '84. So this car kind of reminds %0D%0A%0D%0Ame of an old Johnny Cash song. Anyway, to recap and bring everyone up to date,%0D%0A%0D%0A I'll summarize our progress. We are at the point of tryimg to get the car to%0D%0A%0D%0A start. Thanks to many of you here on the BB (Lucid, goatman, Sdewolf,etc.) we%0D%0A%0D%0A have achieved spark afetr replacing everything in the ignition system with new%0D%0A%0D%0A parts except for the Ignition Control Unit itself which is used. I even%0D%0A%0D%0A installed those special Volvo sleeves on all of the individual pins of the ICU%0D%0A%0D%0A connector to ensure good contact and everything is now working great in the%0D%0A%0D%0A ignition department. Now onto the next dilemma-fuel, or more correctly- lack%0D%0A%0D%0A of fuel. Lucid had left a reply to my previuos post about checking some of the%0D%0A%0D%0Arelays in the fuel system but I'm still confused about something. What do the %0D%0A%0D%0Anumbers in you're post correspond to? Are these referenced in the Bentley%0D%0A%0D%0A manual somewhere? Someone please clarify this for me so I can take the next%0D%0A%0D%0A step. I had left a previous reply regarding the possibility of replacing%0D%0A%0D%0Aboth of the fuel pumps with new because the ones I have on there now are from%0D%0A%0D%0Athe '83 donor car and I have no idea what there age is. Also pretty much%0D%0A%0D%0A everything on this car that is a normal Volvo wear-item has been replaced with%0D%0A%0D%0A new or rebuilt parts. So, still no start. Where to begin now? With the fuel %0D%0A%0D%0Asystem I'm sure. And as always, thanks in advance for all of your help,%0D%0A%0D%0A Charles %0D%0A%0D%0A

[200] The Trilogy continues- the no-spark dilemma has morphed onto the no-fuel dilemma for my diesel to gas conversion project -posted by- goatman

Fri, 16 May 2008 02:39 GMT

Hello,%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AYou might try knocking on the pump with a mallet in the interim while you receive the replacement. Maybe you could get the pump operating to continue troubleshooting. I've had some luck with junkyard pumps; they are always a gamble. Less then $200 seems very reasonable for a new OEM replacement.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AGood Luck!!

[200] The Trilogy continues- the no-spark dilemma has morphed onto the no-fuel dilemma for my diesel to gas conversion project -posted by- volvo245kit

Sat, 17 May 2008 04:00 GMT

Hey Guys, I ordered a new Bosch main fuel pump and new hose and clamps from IPD today. I'll let you know ASAP when I get it and when it's installed and working. Thanks, Charles

[200] Engine mounts are a snap, but I still have drive line vibration -posted by- Luke H

Sat, 17 May 2008 03:30 GMT

Probably answered 1000 times in the past...%0D%0A %0D%0AToday I put my Meyle engine mounts in and the old ones weren't as bad as I thought they were. %0D%0A %0D%0AFirst off, I did not need to remove the oil filter to get the passenger side out, and it was quicker than the driver's side. I didn't remove the engine bracket either.%0D%0A %0D%0AI just removed the bolts on the bottom bracket, the top nut (engine bracket) on the rubber mount, and jacked the engine and pulled it all out nicely. Replacement was very simple. The only specialty tool I used was a ratcheting 15mm wrench to get the nut off of the rubber mount up top.%0D%0A %0D%0AMeanwhile, on the driver's side, I absolutely had to remove both the engine and crossmember brackets. The power steering lines were in the way to get at the rubber mount from below and I wasn't agile enough to get at the nut behind the engine bracket over there. No worries though. It didn't take long either.%0D%0A %0D%0AI finished up by replacing the transmission mount. I removed the two long bolts that are integral to the transmission being sealed. I think I'd try to find a way to NOT do that if I did it again. I had ATF weeping out of the bottom so I worked fast. I removed the transmission crossmember to get easy access back there as well. All three mounts took me 1.5 hours which included my stubborn thinking that I didn't have to remove the driver's engine mount bracket.%0D%0A %0D%0AHowever, my car pretty much behaves exactly the same. The engine shakes as much as it did prior to these new mounts. I'm surprised at how soft these Meyle mounts are. I never remember my 91 sedan shaking that much, but it must have.%0D%0A %0D%0AI'm thinking that mounts made out of hockey pucks would be more up my alley ;-)%0D%0A %0D%0ASo, back to my question. When I get after it at low rpm in 2nd gear (say 15mph) I get driveline vibration. I assume my next suspects are the rear suspension bushings. The trailing arm bushings are all intact. They haven't ripped or fallen yet. My buddy sent my the tool I made several years ago, so I could change them out if I get ambitious. I just am worried that it wouldn't really do much to stop this vibration. I think maybe I'm just expecting smoothness where it ain't gonna happen. However, I feel the car wagging back there, so maybe all the bushings need to be R&Red.%0D%0A %0D%0ADriver side old vs new:%0D%0A %0D%0A%0D%0APassenger side old vs new:%0D%0A %0D%0A %0D%0A

[200] Engine mounts are a snap, but I still have drive line vibration -posted by- volvo245kit

Sat, 17 May 2008 03:48 GMT

Hi, I think that maybe a bad U-joint may be the culprit. The only other thing that can throw you off is if you removed and reinstalled the driveshaft recently. If you didn't reinstall it in the exact same position (ie: same holes on the yoke lining up with the same holes on the flange at both ends). Also if the center flex joint came apart when the shaft was out and was not reinstalled exactly the way it was before (same tooth to tooth alignment) this could cause a vibration. I had my driveline balanced after replacing all of the U-joints for my project car and the shop painted alignment stripes at the center joint. Just a thought. Good Luck, Charles

[200] fuel injector storage -posted by- yama

Wed, 14 May 2008 11:42 GMT

I have a few sets of fuel injectors left on intake manifolds still connected to the fuel rails. I would like to store them such that they don't go bad. I don't have a clue has to what is the best way to do this. I'm thinking of taking them off and maybe adding a drop of Stabil in each one.%0D%0A%0D%0AAny recommendations???

[200] fuel injector storage -posted by- Jorrell

Sat, 17 May 2008 03:29 GMT

Yama,%0D%0A%0D%0AI have purchased a number of new and rebuilt injectors over the years, some of them came bagged with a desiccant pack, others were vacuum sealed, and a few were oiled up very well.%0D%0A%0D%0AIn short, keep moisture away from them, the easiest method is probably to dry them out with brake cleaner, apply a light coat of oil to them, and then wrap them in oil cloth... then a zip lock bag. That is the method I have used for years, so far, no problems.%0D%0A%0D%0Ajorrell%0D%0A%0A--%0A92 245 250K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations!

[700] [1992] Cranks But No Start -posted by- Michael Littman

Sat, 10 May 2008 02:12 GMT

I bought my current 1992 740 Non-Turbo Wagon last summer. It was maintained by a mechanic who meant well but I suspect did not know about Volvos. A few months back it began to have some weird electrical issues that I could not track down. The rear left brake/running lights failed to work but the back up and flashers on that side do work. The radio antenna failed suddenly. I think the cooling fan stopped working. All sorts of weird lights began to appear on my dash including a Service Engine light. There is a slow electrical leak that drains the battery in about two days. Well, this morning I was driving it to work and I noticed a low rumble along with felt like a few missed beats along the way. I sort of thought to myself that it might be time to clean the intake as it has been at least 5000 miles since this has been done. I thought nothing more of this and stepped into the school where I work. I came out this afternoon and the car cranks but will not fire up. I know less than squat about mechanics and particularly electrical stuff but I can follow directions if they are explicit enough. I plan on trying to get the mechanics teacher to take a look at the car next Monday as it is stranded in the parking lot. Where do I look? Are the electrical issues related to the no start? The mechanics teacher mentioned in the past that he thought my alternator might be failing thus causing the electrical problems but I found that the original owner of this car had this alternator installed in December 2006 so I was doubtful that this could fail that rapidly. Could all this be caused by a bad alternator? Relays? Any help would be deeply appreciated! Again, please explain as if talking to a non-mechanic layman as you are! Thanks!

[700] [1992] Cranks But No Start -posted by- goatman

Thu, 15 May 2008 09:55 GMT

Hello,%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0ATopside is best, the sensor mounts to the engine right below the cylinder head. Remove the retaining screw and gently wiggle the sensor out. Be gentle, if you break the bracket you'll be pulling the tranny.%0D%0A%0D%0AFor now I'd just feel for damaged insulation at the sensor.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AGood Luck!!

[700] [1992] Cranks But No Start -posted by- Michael Littman

Sat, 17 May 2008 02:56 GMT

I think I found the sensor plugged in near to a wire going into the fire wall. The insulation is coming apart and it is flaking. I could not see just where it lead to but it appears to dive down below the distributer toward the transmission. Am I looking at the crank position sensor wire? Anyway,the battery is dead and will not hold a charge due to something drawing power off of it. I jumped the battery with my truck and tried to start the car after messing with the wire and got the same thing; cranking but no start. I even had a friend try to wiggle this wire but the motor would not fire up. Is it a fair guess that I ought to go purchase a crank position sensor? Does this seem to be the problem? What is the difference between the crank and camshaft position sensors?

[200] [1984] 1984 Ti no start - I think it's the fuel pump -posted by- Robert S.

Sat, 17 May 2008 00:55 GMT

1984 245 Ti / 290K miles...%0D%0A%0D%0AAfter sitting for a week of so, wouldn't start today. When ignition was first turned on this morning, didn't hear the customary tank buzz. When cranking, motor wanted to start, but didn't. %0D%0A%0D%0AChecked #7 16A fuse, was good. There is no current across fuse holder. Swapped out fuel pump relay, didn't help.%0D%0A%0D%0AMain pump is likely the original. Do they just suddenly quit like this? I know the pump was drawing high current, due to the fuse being warm to the touch when checked previously.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhere do I start?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks, Robert

[200] [1984] 1984 Ti no start - I think it's the fuel pump -posted by- runwld2

Sat, 17 May 2008 02:52 GMT

As a final test, check for voltage at the pump.%0A--%0A84 242Ti IPD bars&springs, 89 745 16v M46 IPD bars, 89 744 16v M46 IPD bars, 90 745 AW70, 91 245SE AW70 IPD bars, 93 245 CLassic M47

[900] [1996] noisy engine on acceleration -posted by- NABs

Fri, 16 May 2008 04:24 GMT

HI Everyone!%0D%0A%0D%0AI'm a woman who understands the basics when it comes to taking care of my 96 960 and have found most of my answers from reading others post; however, with this new development I need to your help. Please bear with my lack of technical knowledge and terms.%0D%0A%0D%0AHere is what is happening: I just had the radiator replaced by the dealer and two days later while driving home from work my car starts making a "grrr" noise when I accelerate. It almost sounds like a muffler problem, but I don't think that is the issue, yet I could be wrong. The service light is not on, but it did come on the after the radiator was replace, but the shop thought it just needed to be reset. I ran an OBDII scan and did not see anything suspect, but was that because the service light was not on? Granted, I am not an expert, so, again, I am open to advice there as well.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe only change I have made in the past two months was switching to Mobil 1 oil and the new radiator. %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks in Advance! %0D%0ANABs

[900] [1996] noisy engine on acceleration -posted by- NABs

Sat, 17 May 2008 02:32 GMT

Many thanks to those who posted a response.%0D%0A%0D%0AI had to rush the car over this morning to the shop so I wouldn't miss an appointment today. The service manager asked me if I had someone else look at my car because somehow a screw was loosened on the exhaust mount/thing. They have been the only shop working (and working some more) on my car.%0D%0A%0D%0AIn fact, they repaired a gas leak weeks ago. I was surprised no one noticed the coolant leak then. This past Monday, I took the car in to have the radiator replaced, but took the car back Tuesday because the car was running rough. I checked the coolant level before I drove off and saw that it was low. I asked them to add more fluid because I did not have some to top it off. They were reluctant to add more fluid because the manager told me it was completely full when they checked it. It was half full when I checked it in the morning before I drove over there. He explained the level increases after the engine warms up. Great! I was getting tired of defending myself. Finally, I drove to work on Wednesday and Thursday with no problems, but heard the noise Thursday night driving home from work.%0D%0A%0D%0AIs it possible for someone to crawl under my car while I am at work? Or Is it possible for a screw to be loosened on Tuesday and it finally fall off by Thursday night?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks in advance!%0D%0ANABs%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A

[444-544] engine removal -posted by- volvo65

Wed, 14 May 2008 19:36 GMT

I've been under the car (1965 544) all morning trying to see what's going to be required to pull the motor. I have found a few places that I am going to need some help on. Does anybody have, or can direct me to, a step by step process for removing the engine?%0A--%0A'61 PV544 - '65 PV544 - '64 Lincoln Continental

[444-544] engine removal -posted by- volvo65

Sat, 17 May 2008 02:19 GMT

Wow, thanks for all the valuable advice! I have the manual but even it didn't have some of the suggestions you guys had. Being a novice as far as 544 goes I really appreciate your help. One day I'll be able to contribute to this outstanding forum. Until then I really appreciate the time and trouble you took,%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks!%0A--%0A'61 PV544 - '65 PV544 - '64 Lincoln Continental

[140-160] B20B distributor Vac advance -posted by- Zee

Thu, 15 May 2008 08:28 GMT

1969 144s, B20B,"F" head (I think) twin SU HS6 carbs, distributor has vacuum advance.%0D%0A%0D%0AFrom where does this distributor draw its vacuum?%0D%0A%0D%0AI have the Voolvo "green book" factory manual, a Haynes, and a SU Carb manual. %0D%0A%0D%0ANone of these shows where on the intake manifold to connect the vac hose.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe green manual shows a distributor with a vac hose fold-out illustration "2-B B 20B engine (sith SU-carburettors) after page 2:58.%0D%0A%0D%0Abut there is no mention of a nipple in the listed components.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe intake manifold has large nipples for the brake boster and crankcase gas through the oil cap. %0D%0A%0D%0AThe air filter box has a large nipple for fresh air to the flame trap/oil separator, and a small nipple which is shown as the ventintg for the float bowls to the air cleaner.%0D%0A%0D%0ANo other nipples can I find on the carbs, the intake nor the air aleaaner.

[140-160] B20B distributor Vac advance -posted by- Zee

Fri, 16 May 2008 21:41 GMT

What will that tell me, one way or the other?%0D%0A%0D%0AAlso, where do you set your timing? I thought I read you do 20 BTDC?%0D%0A%0D%0AIf I did that, I'd have high idle big time.%0D%0A%0D%0AUnless I don't understand which scale to use on the crank pully.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe numbers face the engine. I am placing the timing at the 10 degree mark that is toward the driver's side, that is, to the left side of the scale.%0D%0A%0D%0AIs this correct?%0D%0A%0D%0A(actually, I gave it about 11-12 degrees)%0D%0A%0D%0ATrouble is, I need to back off the idle screws almost until they no longer touch (engaged about 3/4 turn only)%0D%0A%0D%0ASo, if I am using the wrong scale, I can see hoe using the 10 degree mark to the right of the "0" will necessitate oipening up the throttle plates a lot more using the idles screws.

[140-160] B20B distributor Vac advance -posted by- walrus3

Sat, 17 May 2008 02:05 GMT

If you have a low idle with the brake booster line plugged and it is high with %0D%0Ait connected (even when you are braking) you have a hole in the diaphragm of your%0D%0Abrake booster.%0D%0AYou should NOT have to retard your ignition to get a slow idle!!%0D%0ADo you have valves in your throttle butterflies? If so, either get butterflies%0D%0Awithout valves or solder the valves shut. They will make your idle too fast.%0D%0AYes, I do set my ignition at about 20 BTDC which will probably be about where it idles fastest.%0A--%0AGeorge Downs, Bartlesville, Heart of the USA!

[900] 1995 960 Won't Start -posted by- v965

Thu, 15 May 2008 23:52 GMT

Hello,%0D%0ALooking for fuel system info. Here's what I know:%0D%0A%0D%0A1. Will not start%0D%0A2. Fuel Pump working%0D%0A3. New Fuel Pump Relay%0D%0A4. Confirmed fuel pressurising line at firewall(opened fitting and forcefully squirted fuel out of loose fitting)%0D%0A5. No pressure at schrader valve on fuel rail%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for any suggestions.%0D%0A%0D%0ATony%0D%0A1995 960 Wagon%0D%0A150,000 miles%0D%0A

[900] 1995 960 Won't Start -posted by- daidnik

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:44 GMT

Absolutely.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe Fuel Pressure Regulator is mounted to a bracket near the oil dipstick tube on the back end of the intake manifold. It is basically cylindrical and mounts to this bracket with a single somewhat large nut. It also has a vacuum line mounted to a little tubelike fitting on one end with a rubber elbow.%0D%0A%0D%0AAnyway, it has two fuel hoses mounted to it. The one on the back side is fixed on with a screw band type hose clamp. That one is comming from the fuel tank & pump. The other one one going to the fuel rail has a nut/flare type fitting on the hose. Crack that nut loose and see if there is pressure on that side. It should want to spray out a mist when it is cracked loose.%0D%0A%0D%0AThat side (the fuel rail side) should have pressure (~43 psi).%0D%0A%0D%0AAnother test to see if you have fuel in the cylinders is to get a scent of the exhaust when someone is trying to start the car. Without firing in the cylinders, it should smell pretty gassy.%0D%0A%0D%0ABut cracking that nut on the fuel rail hose is pretty easy to do. You won't even have to get dirty. Just don't get rough in over-torquing it when you fasten it back down.

[900] 1995 960 Won't Start -posted by- daidnik

Sat, 17 May 2008 02:01 GMT

I was wrong in my description of the hoses and there function on the FPR.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe fuel line coming from the fuel pump is going directly to the fuel rail on a different hose. The flare fitting hose on the FPR is coming directly from the fuel rail, so it WILL show you if you have pressure in the fuel rail.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe hose clamped hose on the FPR is the fuel return hose going back to the fuel tank. The FPR varies the flow back to the tank (fuel return line) in order to maintain ~43.5 psi pressure in the fuel rail.

[200] [1984] 1984 Ti no start - I think it's the fuel pump -posted by- Jay Shields

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:53 GMT

If it is the original fuel pump, yes as they only have X thousands of hours of operation before going bad. Do you have all your warning lights when key is in ignition, so that you know it is not ignition problem? Ignition switches eventually wear out, the points will not make contact and no start is result. %0D%0AMy 84 had a similar problem, turned out to be badly corroded fuses in fuse box. %0D%0APull fuses, sand the edges and the terminals for good contact. If that is good, %0D%0Acheck the fuel pump relay (green relay box under drivers side area under steering wheel). As a last resort, once you have the cover under the steering wheel down, you can reach the back of the ignition switch ($75 approx)to feel if the switch plug has pulled away from the ignition key cylinder. But yes, first guess is main fuel pump (less than $100 new), especially if you do not hear the hum from the back of the car. It is an easy fix.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AJay%0D%0A84 245 GLTi 235k%0D%0A88 740 GLE 220k

[200] Project: hybrid 1975 244 -posted by- AppleTech

Wed, 14 May 2008 05:43 GMT

hybrid |ˆhŒbrid|%0D%0Anoun%0D%0Aa thing made by combining two different elements%0D%0A%0D%0AOK - so here is my project. I live in CA, and old Volvos that pass smog are hard to come by, due to the new evap test. I recently purchased a 1975 (read: no smog required) 244 with a great body, a running but worn B20/M41 drivetrain, and a 33 year old GL interior. The seller included an M46 in good condition in the sale.%0D%0A%0D%0AI picked up a parts 1985 245 with a strong B230F and the auto tranny for a great deal. The tranny is in great condition when I drove it home, but it will be coming out and going up for sale. It is an AW 3+OD unit.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe following components will be installed in the '75 using the stuff from the '85 wagon and the parts I have gathered:%0D%0A%0D%0A- B230F - it has about 200k mi on it so I'm going to install it then get everything running, then probably rebuild the top end. I may do the oil pump while it is out of car (obviously).%0D%0A- M46 tranny%0D%0A- B230F wiring harness and injection system%0D%0A- Power steering system%0D%0A- A/C system%0D%0A- Front suspension system%0D%0A- Fuel tank (if possible) and related pumps (otherwise, rebuild)%0D%0A- As much of the braking system as possible%0D%0A- I will replace or rebuild worn parts as necessary%0D%0A%0D%0AI'll document the swap here with pics and such. Any advice as I embark on this adventure would be greatly appreciated - for instance if some of the stuff mentioned above will not install into the '75, let me know so I don't tear it all down for nothing! ;)%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0APhil%0D%0A%0A--%0A1996 Toyota Land Cruiser FZJ80

[200] Project: hybrid 1975 244 -posted by- Blue Horse

Fri, 16 May 2008 20:24 GMT

ALL 240s have rack and pinion, so that's not an issue.%0D%0A%0D%0AI tend to agree with Goatman though, that it might make more sense to overhaul the B20, as it's an excellent engine if you have a good one. If the car has a working K-jet (CIS) system, why go to the trouble of switching it over to LH, which will probably be the most difficult aspect of the whole job.%0D%0A%0D%0AIf you really want to use the M46, you could track down one of the super-rare B20/M45 bellhousings from a late production 75 240, but, in my opinion, the M41 is just as good as the later gearboxes.%0D%0A%0D%0AIn any case you will want to change the 4.10 rear axle of the 75 for a taller (lower numerical) one.

[200] Project: hybrid 1975 244 -posted by- AppleTech

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:49 GMT

How can I know what the axle ratio is on the '85? It's got an AW auto in it (3+OD).%0D%0A%0D%0AAs far as the B20 vs. the B230 - I'm better at troubleshooting electrical stuff (I'm a computer tech after all!). I'm not really that concerned about the injection swap. I'm going to pull the computer and basically the whole engine compartment over from the '85. It should all work. The only part of the swap I'm really not looking forward to is figuring out how to get the AC system from the '85 into the '75.%0D%0A%0D%0A-Phil%0A--%0A75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser

[700] Rough Idle -posted by- Mels

Tue, 13 May 2008 23:58 GMT

Well here we are, after all I've done to my sons' car the one thing that remains an issue after everything has been replaced (ALL ignition components, O2 sensor and timing belt) or cleaned (maf, injectors, tb) or checked (vacuum lines, etc...) is this damned rough idle as though it were missing. This miss does not go away when engine temp rises.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhile I haven't yet been able to run a compression test (maybe this weekend), I wonder if I should be looking towards valve adjustment or something else.%0D%0A%0D%0AIt can't be this difficult, but I'll be damned if I can figure out what the heck is causing this.%0D%0A%0D%0AThoughts, oh great BrickBoard Gods???

[700] Rough Idle -posted by- jotvolvo

Fri, 16 May 2008 19:47 GMT

Hi,%0D%0AI have 1991 940SE and has exact same symptom. It has been going on for more than a year. Replaced/cleaned or swapped every part ( I do not want to list as list will be too long) as I have also 1994 940turbo, but every effort went in vain. The only thing that has not been done is the valve adjustment. %0D%0AAt idle car shakes badly but otherwise has full power and runs great. If you happen to find the issue please post back and I have not given up yet and if I could find the solution I will post here.%0D%0AThanks%0D%0ARam

[700] Rough Idle -posted by- Mels

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:47 GMT

You bet. %0D%0A%0D%0AAs it is supposed to be sunny tomorrow morning here in CT, my intention is to run a quick compression test and if possible, check the valve adjustment.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhat a drag. It feels like I'm riding atop a dog wagging its' tail when stopped at a light...

[140-160] rings for a164 -posted by- Rhys

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:34 GMT

I have a set of standard rings for eight bolt B20 - for three pistons. If you buy the B20 set, mine will make up the difference. They'll go cheap.%0D%0Awww.sucarburetors.com%0D%0A

[900] 1995 960 Won't Start -posted by- v965

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:18 GMT

can you get to that without removing the rail?

[200] finally got smart..... :-) -posted by- jjnuttall

Fri, 16 May 2008 20:59 GMT

So I am under the car wrestling with wrenches and the header pipe when it dawned on me that when I pull the header pipe & manifold next week THAT would be the perfect time to do the passenger side rear control arm bushing......%0D%0A%0D%0ANow I just have to remember it !!! ;-]%0D%0A%0D%0AWish me luck%0D%0AJohn%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A

[200] finally got smart..... :-) -posted by- Smitty

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:20 GMT

If you mean the aft A-arm bushing, then yes, you're absolutely right. The spindle bolt on the A-arm should not be fully torqued until the A-arm is supporting the normal front end weight of the car. There are ways around that, but those are compromises.%0A--%0AThank goodness we don't get all the government we pay for. -- Will Rogers

[200] hi smitty !!!..... :-) -posted by- jjnuttall

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:44 GMT

thanks for the reminder!%0D%0A%0D%0Acan u remind me on Wed? hahaha%0D%0A%0D%0AI figure with no exhaust pipes in the way it will be a piece of cake%0D%0AWe'll see%0D%0AJ

[200] Project: hybrid 1975 244 -posted by- goatman

Fri, 16 May 2008 14:29 GMT

Hello,%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AI succeeded in replacing a 1977 B27 with a 1983 B23.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhy don't you rebuild the neat B20?%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0AGoatman

[200] Project: hybrid 1975 244 -posted by- AppleTech

Sat, 17 May 2008 01:37 GMT

Mainly because I don't have the time - my goal for this is a reliable daily commuter with more power than the B20. The guy that sold me the car was saying the B20 is very desireable for modification and has a unique injection setup. I just don't know if I can spend the time and money to work on and find parts for a 33 year old engine :)%0D%0A%0D%0AI'm sure it will make another enthusiast happy when I sell it to them though.%0D%0A%0D%0A-Phil%0A--%0A75 244GL, 85 245DL (parts), 96 Toyota Land Cruiser