http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/ The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:00 GMT Fri, 20 Nov 2009 21:00 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 15 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. It's "gotta have" if you have one of these one year only beasts. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387571/740/760/780/thanks_jim_just_bought.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:40 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387564/740/760/780/thanks_jim_just_bought.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:06 GMT until i replaced the od relay on the relay board a day ago the gas gauge worked perfectly. the od relay was difficult to remove but was changed without i thought breaking anything.%0D%0A%0D%0Anow the gas is dead as door nail.%0D%0A%0D%0Aideas? as i suspect it has to do with the relay board. no other area was touched. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387522/740/760/780/1990_turbo_760_gas_gauge_dead.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:13 GMT Hi guys,%0D%0AI was just reading another thread where a gentleman was looking for some used Volvo parts for his 240.%0D%0AIn that thread there were lots of suggestions of where he could find used parts but one issue seemed to be in finding parts that are rust free.%0D%0AI thought I would post this information in a new thread in hopes that it will help everyone....%0D%0AOver the past few years I've bought from a place called Volvo Saab Auto Dismantlers which is a salvage yard in California.%0D%0AAll of their parts come with a 90 day warranty and are guaranteed to be rust free. %0D%0AI have had very good luck with these people and both their parts and shipping prices seem to be very fair. One thing that I really like about them is that I can all up and describe "that little black box looking thing on the drivers side fender wall" and they can usually talk me through the rest of the information they need, to supply the correct part.%0D%0AIn the past I have bought an in tank fuel pump, complete rear bumper, Mass air flow meter and numerous other small parts and the only problem I had was with a defective Mass air flow meter. I simply called them with the problem and they sent me out another one, no questions asked. They didn't even ask me to send the old one back, but I did anyway.%0D%0AAnyway, here's the phone number: 800-700-8658%0D%0AI haven't had a need to call them in the last several months but I assume that they are still in business.%0D%0AHopefully this will help someone else out.%0D%0A%0D%0ADave%0A--%0AI dream of a world where a chicken can cross the road without having its motives questioned. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387570/220/240/260/280/used_volvo_parts_supplier.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:27 GMT When i wanted to put a T5 tranny in my kids 122, i looked at John's site, Emailed him a few times and bought my adaptor from Dale. I got it in less than two weeks (from Canada) and it worked flawlessly. In todays market, there is no room for bad business. the good guys shine through. I would like to try a supercharger on the B-18 though.............. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387569/120-130/hairy_apple_sez.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:15 GMT This is the second sickening story like this on the forum in as many weeks. Are we talking about a world renowned surgeon or just a glorified grease monkey with a few good ideas? What b*********t, no matter what his excuses are or whatever the excuses anyone can make up for him, taking someone's money and putting them on hold indefinitely is wrong headed. If something isn't available or you're to busy to be bothered, say so to begin with and don't accept a payment. Who says this guy will even be around in a month or a year, things happen-people die, go off the deep end or just vanish (like Jimmy Hoffa & my Uncle Vito). Well any fantasies that I ever had about him building a motor for me are suspended. Besides there are guys who are regularly engage in this forum who are equally or more competent and really deserve to be supported whenever possible." http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387504/120-130/hairy_apple_sez.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:38 GMT Does anybody know if VPD is still in business, Ive sent numerous emails and made a couple of call with no response, John there said he had some springs to fit my car so I pay pal'd him the $340.00 2 months ago and I havent had an email returned or a phone call, if he is still in business, well I dont know what to say but it aint good! If anybody knows anything let me know Thanks,Mike http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387186/120-130/vintage_performance_development.html?rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 20:22 GMT This is for my wife who wants to drive the 122 once in a while.%0D%0AIt has wide tires which I don't want to change.%0D%0AI did see a 1800ES that had PS. Looked stock.%0D%0AI thought of converting to rack an pinion or just finding a PS from maybe a 164.%0D%0AAny ideas?%0D%0AGary http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387568/120-130/anyone_put_power_steering_122.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:12 GMT When should the overdrive light come on - at speed over 45 mph when in 4th or when NOT in 4th - also should it light up before start - like all the rest i.e Seat belt warning ? %0D%0A%0D%0AI cannot find an overdrive push button on the gear shift is this corret ? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387567/940/960/980/V90/S90/940t_4th_gear_light_automatic.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:12 GMT Hi - I see IPD offers a bypass plate for the electric solenoid to enable 3rd to 4th gear upshift.%0D%0A%0D%0AMy question is why did Volvo go the solenoid route and not install their own bypass plate ? %0D%0A%0D%0AIf any one knows why - I would appreciate your advise%0D%0A%0D%0Apuzzled Chrisk %0D%0A%0D%0Aemail: knightbox212@yahoo.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387546/940/960/980/V90/S90/940t_4th_gear.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:20 GMT I just had to post this...%0D%0A%0D%0AEnjoy!%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://www.autoblog.com/2009/11/20/video-disgruntled-volvo-owner-starts-blog-crafts-lament-in-her/#continued http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387566/hillarious_youtube_song_modern_volvo.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:10 GMT Vendors are making me VERY angry. Don't let them screw you!%0D%0ABoge Automatics = Sachs Super Touring > Made in Mexico, non gas charged%0D%0ABoge Turbo Gas = Sachs Advantage > Made ?, Gas charged%0D%0ADON'T LET THEM SEND YOU THE WRONG THING AND CHARGE YOU INCORRECTLY!%0D%0AI will not name names, but I have issues with 2 of my most trusted vendors on this. Yet another vendor doesn't tell you on their site, what they are sending you! They ALL need to do better and get the descriptions and names cleared up! Know what you are buying and paying for! I'm going to try Rock Auto next, maybe they can get it right!%0D%0ACharles%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387499/220/240/260/280/boge_strut_nomenclature_issues.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:25 GMT I just sent for Sachs Advantage Front Struts from FCP. I received them and the box doesn't say anything about "Advantage."%0D%0A%0D%0AThey have not yet been installed but they need to be installed by the end of December (state inspect.). I will be paying to have these intalled at a local garage-I am not confident in my DIY skills yet to tackle this job.%0D%0A%0D%0AI searched the forums (a few weeks ago) about the Sachs Advantage struts and thought they were supposed to be MADE IN GERMANY.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe ones I received say MADE IN MEXICO and on the box I think the model is "Sport... something" (I don't have them in front of me.%0D%0A%0D%0AAren't these supposed to be MADE IN GERMANY? Are they no longer made there?%0D%0A%0D%0AI am a bit apprehensive about having these installed as I haven't read good things about the Sachs MADE IN MEXICO struts and I paid $65 for each!%0D%0A%0D%0AI am glad you brought this up!%0D%0A%0D%0ADid I receive the wrong struts??!!?? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387565/220/240/260/280/bogesachs_strut_nomenclature_issues.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:09 GMT Sorry; I've got the green book.%0D%0AThe schematics alone are ~10 8-1/2 X 11 pages, which fold out, so they're hard to scan.%0D%0ATry %0D%0Ahttps://www.volvotechinfo.com/index.cfm?event=item.view&itemClass=service,parts&itemType=Service%20Manuals&itemSubType=Electrical%20System%20%26%20Instrumentation%0D%0A%0D%0AIt's still only $28.50 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387561/740/760/780/1990_turbo_760_gas_gauge_dead.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:45 GMT To some extent I share your sentiment. Your post name TORQUE. I should have thought of that one. Cause I know I'm twisted. Your subject fits too. Smart!%0D%0A%0D%0AMost of what you feel is the crown of the road. That can change and of course you cannot do much for that.%0D%0A%0D%0AA Poster Named Will Hesper put a good site for info on this. It was Tire Rack.com/tires/tiretech/techpage.%0D%0A%0D%0AAfter reading it you may think a lot more about the back end. In relation to the front. You may have a worn or soft bushing somewhere.%0D%0A%0D%0AIf it were me. I would do what I was able to do on my own. Since I had a old car that needed bushings and all. I adjusted the tow-in of both tires in. To make it track more tighter inward. I only moved the adjustment two turns each. Or the nut about .100 movement up the tie rods.%0D%0A%0D%0AI hasn't had effect on the tires because the bushings are loose. Which let the wheels naturally pull outwards. Due to the crown of the road.%0D%0A%0D%0AI would suggest you just screw the right front "in" one turn. See how it works. If you need more turn the left front "out" one turn. %0D%0A%0D%0AIn effect you turn the front end of the car in realtion to the rear axle.%0D%0A%0D%0AThat way you won't create an effect the scrubbing action of excessive tow-in.%0D%0A%0D%0AIt will maintain the alignment settings that are supposably right from that DEALER which I have little faith in. DUH, his paperwork fix!%0D%0A%0D%0ATow-in or the lack there of, will let the car hunt or drift. But there is a limit how much can be used.%0D%0A%0D%0AIn the article you will read about negative camber. If applied to you right tire can accomplish the correction but it's not easy to move without a way to float the wheel and read the adjustment. That's why they make the equipment.%0D%0A%0D%0AIt makes it easy and some quick bucks for them.%0D%0A%0D%0AYou know, these specifications came about by having some 1930's "college boy" (from Black Sheep Squadron) following an old time mechanic around. Taking notes for a manual! His son is that over paid CEO of an alignment company now!%0D%0A%0D%0AThese things were set by the mechanic flying by the seat of his pants on this stuff. It was and still is not rocket science.%0D%0A%0D%0AIt maybe more accurate with LASER but it's more a "perception" to sell the public!%0D%0ALike nitrogen in the tires. When air is already 80 percent that stuff.%0D%0A%0D%0AAnyway ,read up some. I'm sure other BBers nave a couple cents to spend.%0D%0A%0D%0APhil http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387562/940/960/980/V90/S90/pull_rightthen_left.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:55 GMT "I wish I could tell you how to do it without breaking it. Every one I've ever seen is already broken. It may very well be built that way to provide tamper evidence." That's exactly right Art. Don't fret about the plastic ring--insert the blade of a straight screw driver into the loops on the outer ring and give a twist to break it. Once the outer ring slides back you can unscrew the cable cap. If you haven't already popped the panel loose from the dash--here's how--put a largeish pry bar/screwdriver between the upper edge of the instrument panel and the lower part of the "hood". The panel is held in place with some powerful spring clips at the top. Use the pry bar to gently push the panel downward while you use your other hand to push the panel out from behind at the top. While you have it out drill or punch a few holes in the tinted plastic strip at the top of the panel to bring more green light onto the instruments---and check the string of (3, I think) panel illumination bulbs under the "hood". -- Dave%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387549/220/240/260/280/instrument_cluster_removal.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:52 GMT Well this is embarrassing. I have an 88 and a 77. I'm familiar with the newer style instrument cluster but am totally stuck on removing the old style cluster. The only thing I can't remove is the speedo cable. I can feel like two plastic circles with wings. One feels threaded. There's a slight movement to them but I can't twist them off. How do I do it?%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387537/220/240/260/280/instrument_cluster_removal.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:38 GMT You can also reach around to the top of the cluster and push the clips down at the top. %0D%0A%0D%0ABe careful with the 3 instrument panel bulbs. Their filaments are feeble and will likely break. Good luck finding replacements...I haven't been able to buy less than 10 @ $3.50 a piece. I ended up replacing mine with white LEDs and now my instrument panel has a nice blue glow.%0D%0A%0D%0ADon't worry about the speedo clip, just break it. My cable has never fallen out.%0A--%0A1980 244 diesel M46 168k, my 4th 240 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387563/220/240/260/280/instrument_cluster_removal.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:00 GMT Just before I bought it, the car pulled to the right so the previous owner took it to dealer, did an alignment, switched the two front tires, and dealer wrote up "now pulls to the left - needs new front tires". The front tires look fine with about 1/2 life left. I switched the front tires back and now it pulls to the right a little. It's fairly slight but you need to pay attention on the freeway or you'll drift right. Just live with it or ???%0D%0A%0D%0ABTW, my other 940 also pulls right. However both 240s go right down the middle. Is it a 940 thing? Sometimes I think alignments are a money making racket because I rarely see any difference.%0A--%0A1993 240 Classic http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387548/940/960/980/V90/S90/pull_rightthen_left.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:44 GMT jim%0D%0A%0D%0Aif you have the complete wiring diagram for this model would you be so kind to send me a copy if you have it in digital format %0D%0A%0D%0Ato%0D%0A%0D%0Atrichard@mass.rr.com%0D%0A%0D%0Athanks%0D%0Ated http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387550/740/760/780/1990_turbo_760_gas_gauge_dead.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:54 GMT In my experience, whenever this has happened on my 240's, it was a early signal that the brushes in the alternator were getting marginal. Replacing the voltage regulator (which contains the brushes) always cured the problem. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387560/220/240/260/280/battery_idiot_lightfaint_glow.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:45 GMT yes... I do agree... or, rather, if it's drawing enough current to make the amp light glow, it should blow the fuse... but never know.. make sure it's got the right amperage fuse.%0D%0A%0D%0AIn either event, first step is check voltage at battery.. if it all looks ok, turn on only the fan and see if voltage drops significantly%0D%0A%0D%0A%0A--%0A-Matt I &#153; my &#153;&#130; http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1386895/220/240/260/280/battery_idiot_lightfaint_glow.html?rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 14:05 GMT Noticed this a.m. that my battery idiot light glowed faintly. If I turned off the radio and heater blower motor the light went out.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhat could this be, alternator, regulator problem? Battery was replaced not too long ago?%0D%0A%0D%0AWhat checks should I be performing?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1386886/220/240/260/280/battery_idiot_lightfaint_glow.html?rss=1 Tue, 17 Nov 2009 13:33 GMT Hey Matt.%0D%0A%0D%0AI've used a combination of POR-15 and new sheet metal to rebuild large holes in my car's floor and the rear wheel-wells. Right now I'm playing catchup on more superficial spots. %0D%0A%0D%0AWhat I do is remove as much weak and loose metal as possible. Then I clean the heck out of all surfaces that will receive the paint using a cleaner that POR-15 sells and recommends. Then I either use their clear sealant paint to cover the rusted areas or I brush on their POR-Patch, which is a thicker version of the paint, on smaller areas. %0D%0A%0D%0AIf it's a hole that I'm rebuilding, I'll either place some epoxy putty over the hole (while the POR-15 is not fully cured but tacky so the putty holds in place), or screw or rivet fresh steel in place. %0D%0A%0D%0AAnd about that fresh steel...it needs to be treated with something called Metal Ready which etches fresh, smooth steel and places a coating of zinc phosphate on it. Much like primer, it gives the POR paint something to grab onto.%0D%0A%0D%0AOnce that cures after a week or so, I seal any seams or edges with POR Patch. Then I prime and paint if it's on the outside of the car, or top-coat it with their undercoating.%0D%0A%0D%0AOverall, I've been pleased with the stuff. It works well if you follow the directions. And without it, my car would have been scrapped years ago.%0D%0A%0D%0AI hope this helps; let me know if you have any questions!%0D%0A--%0D%0AMike F - 1984 244 DL - 296,000 miles <br> Original engine, transmission, drive train, starter <br> Undergoing reconstructive surgery with POR-15 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387559/220/240/260/280/fixing_small_clock_tutorial.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:40 GMT Tell me about yuor POR15 resto work. I dabbled with that stuff a while back but would like to touch up a few spots on my current driver. %0D%0A%0D%0ATHanks,%0D%0A%0D%0AMatt%0D%0A%0D%0A%0A--%0A'90 245 244k, '93 945 225k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387497/220/240/260/280/fixing_small_clock_tutorial.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 14:16 GMT I&#128;&#153;d been wanting to fix my small clock for almost 2 years now but it was one of those things I kept putting off. The clock stops running at temps under ~50F as I understand due to 2 old dried out capacitors. I purchased the capacitors from allelectronics.com 2 years ago along with some other components that I intended to use to retro-fit keyless entry to my 940. Anyway, the caps you need are 100uF 16V electrolytic (can style). Available at radioshack as well&#128; %0D%0A%0D%0AI thought I'd post my experience of fixing the clock while watching PBS. %0D%0A%0D%0A*The most difficult, well, tedious part of the job was de-crimping the face ring on the clock. I just used a high &#128;&#147;quality small blade screw driver and found a spot to wedge it under the crimp and the carefully worked my way all the way around. A little more finagling and the face will come off more or less intact. %0D%0A%0D%0A*Remove the 2 screw from the back of the clock. %0D%0A%0D%0A*Next you need to de-solder the ground connection to the case. You can see the connection on the back of the case: you&#128;&#153;ll see large solder bubble surrounded by a small brass ring. Place the clock upside down, put a little pressure on the +12V terminal and then melt the solder bubble. The clock body should fall right out of the case. %0D%0A%0D%0A*The two can-style capacitors on the clock are easy to locate. I found them easiest to remove by applying the iron to the joint and then pressing on the terminal w/ a screwdriver as opposed to pulling on the capacitor body. %0D%0A%0D%0A*Almost done now. Install the new capacitors paying careful attention to polarity. Both the capacitor and the circuit board are marked. Apply the iron to the joint for a second or two and then flow a dab of solder into the joint&#128; not the iron tip. %0D%0A%0D%0ANow is a good time to test the clock if you have access to a 12vdc power supply. %0D%0A%0D%0AReassembly is pretty simple. Just make sure you force the clock firmly back up into the case when you are re-soldering the ground connection. I used thin piece of wood to protect the clock face as I gently re-crimped the ring with a needle-nose pliers. You dont need to re-crimp the entire thing, just in a few spots. %0D%0A%0D%0AThis tutorial would obviously be a lot better with pictures but I don't have capabilities or just haven&#128;&#153;t taken the time to figure out how to attach or post them. I hope this helps somebody be on time! %0D%0A%0D%0AMatt%0D%0A%0D%0A%0A--%0A'90 245 244k, '93 945 225k http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387329/220/240/260/280/fixing_small_clock_tutorial.html?rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:38 GMT The bypass plate allows an automatic upshift <i>from 3rd gear to 4th gear Overdrive</i>.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe OD relay and solenoid allow the same thing, but also allow a <i>controlled</i> downshift from Overdrive to 3rd gear (direct drive) for pulling trailer at lower speeds, climbing twisty hills, etc.%0D%0A%0D%0ASome people like and use that OD to 3rd downshift, as I do. Others don't care about it, don't feel the need to use it, or don't understand its purpose.%0D%0A%0D%0AThat's how the AW tranny was designed to operate, so Volvo left it that way. %0D%0A%0D%0A--%0D%0ABruce Young, '93 940-NA (current), 240s (one V8), 140s, 122s, since '63. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387554/940/960/980/V90/S90/940t_4th_gear.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:06 GMT Hello All thought someone may have interest.%0D%0A%0D%0AIt's posted here:%0D%0Ahttp://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/1459559877.html%0D%0A%0D%0Acheers%0D%0A%0D%0Agreendread http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387555/444-544/volvo_444_544_m30_manual_3_speed_transmission_60_philadelphia_craigs_list.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 19:18 GMT i believe i have the volvo green manual wiring diagram for that year and model in pdf format%0D%0A%0D%0Aif you like i can upload and give you the link where to get it%0D%0A%0D%0Aas to your specific question that info i do not have http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387552/940/960/980/V90/S90/sound_like_exhaust_leak.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:58 GMT It is certainly staring to sound like o2 sensor, although I don't get the wet weather thing. The sensor looks fairly new and responds to a forced rich and lean and seems to vary across appropriate voltage range. The plug and coil wires are new and greased. I will go over the grounds again. I'm going to examine the o2 sensor wires to see if there's any chance they are flaky.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for your response, this has been quite an exercise in troubleshooting. What would really like to see is the control logic algorithm for the Regina fuel injection system so I can stop guessing what inputs are active when.%0D%0A%0D%0AI'm surprised I'm not getting any codes here..%0D%0A%0D%0ARon http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387539/940/960/980/V90/S90/sound_like_exhaust_leak.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:47 GMT Car won't pass E-test - high everything at 25 mph and I've been over the intake a dozen times looking for leaks. No codes set, slightly wavering idle, biggest problem is at about 2000-2500 rpms when it has the symptoms of running rich. Plugs are carboned up a little with cylinder 1 being the worst and cylinder 4 being the best. Car starts first time but is gutless for the 1st minute or so (feels like it's running lean) until the o2 sensor kicks in. I've been over all the other normal tune up/ fuel injection stuff testing and swapping parts until I'm blue in the face. Exhaust system is almost brand new front to back ( done by previous owner). So, does this sound like it could be an exhaust leak?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0A%0D%0ARon%0D%0A%0D%0A93 245%0D%0A93 944 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387365/940/960/980/V90/S90/sound_like_exhaust_leak.html?rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 18:34 GMT well, the schematics are no help; power is common to the whole cluster, and there are no connections at the relay panel.%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387533/740/760/780/1990_turbo_760_gas_gauge_dead.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:28 GMT I wish I could tell you how to do it without breaking it. Every one I've ever seen is already broken. It may very well be built that way to provide tamper evidence.%0D%0A--%0D%0AArt Benstein near Baltimore%0D%0A%0D%0ASince bread is square, why is sandwich meat round? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387542/220/240/260/280/instrument_cluster_removal.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:00 GMT %0D%0AIdeally you want one with a flat plate the bolts rigidly to the drum. The centre bolt then pulls on the half shaft. The good ones have a bearing on the end of the centre bolt so you don't mash up the end of the half shaft. A thread file is useful to have on stand by just in case.%0D%0A%0D%0APulling on the wheel studs really isn't ideal. I've used the leg type pullers before I bought a factory tool, but its possible to distort the drum if it's stuck really tight.%0D%0A%0D%0A<center>%0D%0A<a href="http://s338.photobucket.com/albums/n413/turbobrickspics/Brickboard/?action=view&current=DSCF0098.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i338.photobucket.com/albums/n413/turbobrickspics/Brickboard/DSCF0098.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a><br /><br />%0D%0A</center> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387475/120-130/hydraulic_drum_puller_anyone_ever_tried_one.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 09:15 GMT Been looking into various options for a rear drum puller and ran across this. I'm wondering if anyone has tried something like this. I suppose you just snug the cylinder portion against the axle stub using the threads on the OD, then turn the small handle . . . which must force a much smaller piston further, creating the pulling force (?). I'm curious to know if the high pressures claimed (12 tons of pulling force) are more effective then the sudden "impact" delivered by wailing on the end of a puller with a BFH. Any input?%0D%0A%0D%0AFor my money, I don't think it's worth it, but it's an interesting concept that I have not seen before.%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Hydraulic-Wheel-Hub-Puller-Rear-Brake-Drum-Remover-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem56372efd27QQitemZ370293013799QQptZMotorsQ5fAutomotiveQ5fTools http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387433/120-130/hydraulic_drum_puller_anyone_ever_tried_one.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 01:36 GMT The big plus with the Volvo puller, SVO1791, is the fine thread on the centre screw. This effectively gives much more leverage than a similar one with a coarse thread. The later versions of the Volvo tool usually have a T bar at the end which can be thumped with a BFH but you can make up someting similar to fit on the "nut" of this type. I have one of these and it's never failed to do the job for me. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387547/120-130/hydraulic_drum_puller_anyone_ever_tried_one.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:34 GMT Yes it is a bit hit or miss with the window ones and I agree about fitting the wing mount ones on the opposite side to the dizzy. OK in the UK but USA use will have it on the foot path side just waiting to be snapped off. I have a Philips electric one still in it's box and the hole in the fender for it. Will try that if the window one doesn't hack it. At least it can be lowered out of the way when parked. if you're buying a cheap manual one, at least look for one made from stainless steel. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387545/120-130/radio_antenna_1966_122s.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:18 GMT Window mount antennas are really crummy. Lots of static and noise. Stay away.%0D%0A%0D%0AOn my 122, I just installed a $10 whip antenna from a local autoparts store. It works quite well for the original AM (Bendix) radio in the car. There was a hole already in the passenger front fender from a previous antenna (which was broken when I bought the car). Installing it was easy; I had it done in about 10 minutes.%0D%0A%0D%0AThere isn't anything particularly fancy about car radio antennas. Just avoid the window ones.%0D%0A%0D%0AI'd suggest mounting the antenna on the passenger side of the car to keep it further away from the distributor (a big source of interference.)%0A--%0A<a href http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387524/120-130/radio_antenna_1966_122s.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:31 GMT Can someone recommend a basic AM/FM radio antenna that will work well and conserve the vintage look? There are a million choices out there. Looking for one that someone is pleased with. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387128/120-130/radio_antenna_1966_122s.html?rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 15:35 GMT A few months ago the sunroof on my 87 745T stopped closing properly, it no longer pops back up into place to seal closed, although it still slides back and forth fairly easily. This is my DD and my job allows me little free time for lengthy repairs, Is there a fairly quick and easy way to pop it back up tight to get me through the winter? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387510/87_745_sunroof_wont_close_tight.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 15:05 GMT Power or manual sunroof? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387544/87_745_sunroof_wont_close_tight.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 18:11 GMT Hi Nelson,%0D%0A%0D%0AOn our 89, 90, and 91 sedans the trunk works along with the doors, just as it does when you use the keyswitch or button. It doesn't "pop" the trunk or anything like that, and the valet feature which, frankly I don't have a use for and would have to read up on, would work no differently after installing the keyless. The wagon hatch works just like another door.%0D%0A%0D%0AHowever, on our older (pre-86) 240's, the electric trunk latch is optional and not tied to the door locks. One 83 has a button in the glove box, and I have removed the motor from a junk yard car to do the same in another car if I ever get around to it. The three-button key fobs have that function available, but I haven't used it. I wired one "third button" to the interior lights, but that proved to be a waste of time. Although this keeps Matt's good thread at the top of the index, we really should take the keyless entry subject to a new thread, and post year/model information.%0D%0A--%0D%0AArt Benstein near Baltimore%0D%0A%0D%0AIf money doesn't grow on trees, then why do banks have branches?%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387541/220/240/260/280/fixing_small_clock_tutorial.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:55 GMT Art, when you installed the keyless system did you also have it so that you can unlock the trunk seperaely? How?Thanks,%0D%0ANelson http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387531/220/240/260/280/fixing_small_clock_tutorial.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:10 GMT several things come to mind:%0D%0A%0D%0A1 failing o2 sensor%0D%0A2 for the moisture problem replace all really old plug wires%0D%0A3. if ALL the spark plug wires and coil wire are decent remove them and insert di electric grease between all wires and what they connect to%0D%0A4. remove and clean all engine grounds and use di electric grease on re connection%0D%0A%0D%0Ai think your oxygen sensor is causing the e problems%0D%0A%0D%0Ado not forget after you replace the sensor or verify it is absolutely sound to disconnect the neg battery cable for a few minutes and allow all CURRENT running instructions in the ecu to delete. you want the engine to re learn. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387523/940/960/980/V90/S90/sound_like_exhaust_leak.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:28 GMT My thoughts exactly - methinks they wanted to sell you some additional parts + labor.%0D%0A%0D%0AAnd, very possibly the bearing adjustment is ready to get tightened up that small extra amount now.%0D%0A%0D%0AA tire shop once refused to do an alignment because they insisted it needed to have the bearings repacked. I adjusted them right after that and that might have been 50 K miles ago. Another tire shop did the alignment after I adjusted the bearings, no complaints.%0A--%0ASven: '89 245 NA, 951 ECU, expanded air dam, forward belly pan reaches oem belly pan, airbox heater upgraded, E-fan, 205/65-15 at 50 psi, IPD sways, no a/c-p/s belt, E-Codes, amber front corner reflectors, aero front face, quad horns, tach, small clock. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387535/220/240/260/280/im_told_outer_tierod_bad_3_9_tie_rod.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:37 GMT Did you jack that wheel up from the body? If so, try doing so from the ball joint.. perhaps if the suspension is loaded, you'll better be able notice if it's bad...%0D%0A%0D%0ASounds like maybe the shop is trying to get a little more money than just an alignments worth to me. If you can't find any play in that tie rod, take it to another shop and tell them what the other guys told you.. and if they find the same thing, have them show you.%0D%0A%0D%0AAdjust your wheel bearings before you do that.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0A--%0A-Matt I &#153; my &#153;&#130; http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387094/220/240/260/280/im_told_outer_tierod_bad_3_9_tie_rod.html?rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 10:28 GMT I went in to have an alignment done the other day and they told me my outer tie-rod was bad on the drivers side. Also my wheel bearings needed to be repacked. Well I know the bearings are fine but may need adjusting.%0D%0A%0D%0ASo tonight I jacked up that one side of the car and did the 3 & 9 test with no movement detected. I'm wondering if both wheels have to be off the ground to test the outer tie-rod or if they are mistaking my bad alignment which wore the outer part of that tire bald as a bad tie-rod. %0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387084/220/240/260/280/im_told_outer_tierod_bad_3_9.html?rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 06:16 GMT Hello all,%0D%0A%0D%0AMy 940 wagon starts pretty well when cold, sometimes right away, but once the engine is hot, it starts right away but can't hold an idle until the third restart, or if I give it throttle and pop it into gear (basically give the engine a load). Recently did a tune-up, minus distributor, which is sitting in its box waiting for me to install. Any ideas out there or has anyone had this happen to them? %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0A%0D%0APB http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387532/940/960/980/V90/S90/hot_startidle_problem.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:23 GMT If both key and knob stopped working, the fault is more likely to be in the wiring, because those are separate switches. One place the wiring dies is in the door jamb, right where you had to fish the new wires for the driver's door actuator. The copper can be broken inside the insulation from being flexed for years. If both lock and unlock functions got lost, it is probably the black (ground) wire.%0D%0A%0D%0AI've installed a half-dozen JC Whitney keyless products in 240s. The cheapest of the cheap - most of them were $30 IC Dynamics.%0D%0A%0D%0A<img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/keyless48.jpg>%0D%0A--%0D%0AArt Benstein near Baltimore%0D%0A%0D%0AHow is it that we put man on the moon before we figured out it would be a good idea to put wheels on luggage? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387521/220/240/260/280/fixing_small_clock_tutorial.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 16:08 GMT I have a red 122s, but for the most part I'm now keeping it garaged outside of the city where I have space to work on it as well as a small wood/metal shop. Cheaper than tickets and dealing with drunken cretins who seem to have discovered the lower east side. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1387530/120-130/radio_antenna_1966_122s.html?rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 17:06 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/