http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/ The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 7 Nov 2009 12:00 GMT Sat, 7 Nov 2009 12:00 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 15 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Dear Simon,%0D%0A%0D%0AMay this find you well. Parts data from Volvo VADIS (the now-superseded dealer parts/maintenance database) show that the hubs are different and do not interchange, as between the 1985-87 740s, and the later models.%0D%0A%0D%0AIn the earlier models, the hub and brake rotor were combined. In the later models, the hub - which houses the bearing - was separate from the rotor. %0D%0A%0D%0ADoing this makes sense: hubs are good for 200-300,000 miles. Rotors do not last that long. %0D%0A%0D%0AThe hub, for a 1986 740 is Part #3516126. The hub, for a 1989 or later 740 is Part #271644. Both of these parts are for cars with ABS.%0D%0A%0D%0AFor 740s, the strut housings, from which the stub axle protrudes, are also different:%0D%0A1986: 1330826 or 1330827%0D%0A1992: 1359840 or 1359841.%0D%0A%0D%0ASo far as I know, bearings for the later hubs are not available separately. If the bearing fails, the entire hub must be replaced.%0D%0A%0D%0AI hope this is helpful.%0D%0A%0D%0AYours faithfully,%0D%0A%0D%0ASpook %0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384651/940/960/980/V90/S90/740940_front_spindle_differences_years_hub_940_740_early_late.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:37 GMT I'm trying to understand the differences between the front hubs of 85-88 740s and 89-later 740/940s.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe early spindles have a narrow end, a wide end, and a ~2" long taper in-between. The Later spindles have a narrow end and a wide end with a shoulder in-between.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe hubs seem to be different. (different nut and shape of the hub around the nut)%0D%0A%0D%0ADoes anybody know if these hubs are interchangeable? (ignore the tone wheel)%0D%0A%0D%0AWhich spindle design is superior? Would have thought the taper was stronger, but maybe one is cast and one forged?%0D%0A%0D%0ALast question - anybody tried replacing the bearings in the later style hubs? I did it without any problems in the early style hubs. (found the PN on the race and ordered Timken replacements)%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for any thoughts!%0D%0A-simon %0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384614/940/960/980/V90/S90/740940_front_spindle_differences_years_hub_940_740_early_late.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:29 GMT If you can't do it yourself, isn't there anywhere locally that can steam clean/jet wash your engine/GB/Front chassis? Money well spent I'd have thought. Makes working on it much nicer and allows you to find out where your leaks are. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384650/120-130/engine_mounts_mount.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:36 GMT Here I am staring at the engine from the bottom like a real dummy!!! Removing the bracket is the way to go. That simplifies things drastically.%0D%0A%0D%0AMaybe even add red paint to the brackets, I think there is some under all of the oil deposits.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks a lot,%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0A--%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384593/120-130/engine_mounts_mount.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 00:18 GMT The wagon is going to get new IPD HD engine mounts and a tranny mount. The engine mounts look quite straight forward. Just loosen the bolts, lift the engine a little, and replace.%0D%0ABut, where is the tranny mount hidden??? Note, I have a J type OD and every thing is covered in old engine oil.%0D%0AIs it supposed to be between the tranny and the crossmember that bends around the bottom of the tranny? All helpful hints are welcome :)%0D%0A%0D%0AKlaus%0D%0A%0D%0A--%0D%0AProud owner of a 220S. If I had more room, I would have more Volvos. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384350/120-130/engine_tranny_mounts_mount.html?rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 22:09 GMT Hi Paul,%0D%0A%0D%0AI've used this Volvo illustration in previous posts to convey the dependence of ideal charging voltage on temperature. The temperature is that of the battery.%0D%0A%0D%0A<img src=http://cleanflametrap.com/diodekit.jpg>%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A--%0D%0AArt Benstein near Baltimore%0D%0A%0D%0AThe journey of a thousand miles begins with a broken fan belt and leaky tire. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384648/220/240/260/280/depends.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:10 GMT That sucker is mounted over on the fender,%0D%0A%0D%0AAnd the old one is under the floor board in the back of the wagon.%0D%0A%0D%0ARegards,%0D%0A%0D%0APaul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384637/220/240/260/280/adjustable_external_volt_reg_set.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:50 GMT Hello.%0D%0A%0D%0AHave Dave Barton's (thanks for bringing that up Art) external regulator installed in Inga. You can turn the engine off and the voltage will jump right back up when you start the car. Before the voltage would drop about .6 volts if you stopped the engine for a couple of minutes with the engine warmed up. Moving the regulator away from the manifold did the trick. This is a 100 Amp 740 Alt in a 1986 245DL,264K.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe regulator is set just under 14.2 volts right now.%0D%0A%0D%0ADoes anyone here in BB land have a voltage they recommend and why?%0D%0A%0D%0ARegards,%0D%0A%0D%0APaul%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384582/220/240/260/280/adjustable_external_volt_reg_set.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 23:02 GMT My two daughters have sedans although that was their initial reaction, the oldest admitted it was better than a room mates Honda Accord. The other daughter gets a lot of "How do you like you Volvo?" when out and about. They are both very reliable transportation.%0D%0ADan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384647/220/240/260/280/car_talk_volvo_teen.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 10:19 GMT http://www.cartalk.com/content/columns//Archive/2009/November/02.html http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384642/220/240/260/280/car_talk_volvo_teen.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 06:14 GMT check this link out on fleabay. Looks to be a good block to start with if you are trying to do it cheap. The seller is willing to ship.%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Volvo-B20-Engine_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e58e8d416QQitemZ130340672534QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384562/1800/bout_good_short_block_b20b_engine_needed.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:08 GMT does anyone have a (low miles ) b20b engine for sale? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1381673/1800/good_b20b_engine_needed.html?rss=1 Sat, 24 Oct 2009 20:31 GMT Good buy - IF it isn't stuck in one form or another. But FWIW, the engine couldn't have been rebuilt 45 years ago; there weren't any B20's extant in 1964. Maybe 35 years ago? Still a long time! Finally, with all due respect, I believe you would call that assembly a long block, not a short block.%0A--%0A<p>Gary L - 142E ITB race car, 73 1800ES<br /> <a href='http://www.bluebrickracing.mysite.com'><u>BlueBrick Racing Website</u></a><br /><a href='http://www.youtube.com/user/denrael'><u>YouTube Racing Videos</u></a> http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384646/1800/bout_good_short_block_b20b_engine_needed.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 10:02 GMT Fram, the orange kiss of death.%0D%0A%0D%0ASeriously, these engine purges spell trouble for oil passages. A sudden loosening of 20-year accumulation of crud circulating through the closed oil circuit is asking for trouble, despite the many anecdotes offered. Slow and easy wins the day. Mix a little syn oil or Techron fuel system cleaner, routinely, prior to oil changes. %0D%0A%0D%0AChris in Vt, 1994 945 153K. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384645/220/240/260/280/adding_transmission_fluid_oil.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 06:50 GMT More than anything else I think you've pointed to a problem with Fram filters. Although I work for the parent company, I will state unequivocally that these are "minimal" filters which do not compare well with OEM filters. %0D%0A%0D%0AI had a '91 Jetta which routinely sounded the high-pressure oil pressure failure buzzer when I used Fram filters. The OEM VW filters by Mann worked fine!%0A--%0AIn God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384640/220/240/260/280/adding_transmission_fluid_oil.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 05:07 GMT i've recently heard from several people that substituting a qt of transmission fluid for a qt of motor oil is a great way to internaly clean the engine between oil changes, anyone ever tried this?%0D%0A %0D%0A%0A--%0AAnyone can design something but it takes a genius to make it simple. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384275/220/240/260/280/adding_transmission_fluid_oil.html?rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 16:56 GMT I am having a similar experience with my vents. I removed the dash to replace the windshield wiper mechanism, and would like to address the vents before dash re-install.%0D%0A%0D%0ADoes anyone have a schematic for the vacuum lines behind the dash, or know where I can find one? The Bentley isn't much help.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks,%0D%0A%0D%0ATom http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384643/220/240/260/280/ac_vents_still_quirky.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 06:36 GMT Sounds like you have a loose vacuum line either from the bottle to the climate control switch or one or more vacuum lines loose on the control switch. Very much a PITA to take the center console loose, unplug all the switches to pull the climate control out to check. Have new light bulbs standing by if you have any lights out. Bet if you pull it all loose and can get eyes on the back of the switch, at least one if not more lines have popped off back there.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood Luck,%0D%0A%0D%0APaul http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1383601/220/240/260/280/ac_vents_still_quirky.html?rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 13:17 GMT A/C is cold but dash vents are whimsical and take turns working properly--occasionally they work fine and then other times not. If I adjust the fan speed and turn the A/C switch off and on that sometimes that gets air flowing again. Everything is fine when I stop and re-start the car or start it first thing. %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks to previous BB help I replaced the black and white vacuum check valve on the intake manifold. That was not the only problem so I'm wondering if there are other vacuum valves under the dash that need attention? Are there diagrams available that show what controls the opening and closing of the dash vents, the defroster, etc.? Any other ideas?%0D%0A%0D%0AI'm in the Sunbelt so I'll be using my A/C year round.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for your help.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1383549/220/240/260/280/ac_vents_still_quirky.html?rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 02:49 GMT Are you trying to get fired from your job?%0D%0A%0D%0AJust a thought!%0D%0Ajorrell%0D%0A%0A--%0A92 245 287K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384641/220/240/260/280/adding_transmission_fluid_oil.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 05:14 GMT Greetings:%0D%0A We had a 1986 hi mileage German made Jetta. Very sturdy suspension.We changed the Valvoline dino oil at home fairly often. I tried the 5 quarts of Valvoline semi-synthetic and new Fram filter.50 miles later the oil light came on. Added oil, changed sender, etc. No joy. Finally got worried and towed it to independent German shop (Karl Merkel in Indy). New Oil and filter change and everything was fine again. They said semi-synthetic oil completely and quickly cleaned engine and totally clogged the 50 mile old Fram filter. They explained cleansing was a typical effect of converting to synthetic and semi-synthetic oil. It cleaned and yet it was still motor oil with lubrication properties that ATF would certainly lack. I would consider some form of quart of synthetic oil and 4? of regular oil, or a special oil flush, which usually is used at idle for an hour or so. %0D%0A%0D%0A John in Avon / Indy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384633/220/240/260/280/adding_transmission_fluid_oil.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:42 GMT If you are really serious about this , I have some information about this particular conversion that might be benificial. I woulld have to dig it out. It was sent to me from a 544 owner in Canada.E-mail me if your are interested. barrettjim46@yahoo.com http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384639/444-544/volvo_pissing.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 05:06 GMT I am about to yank the motor trans and rear end out and replace with a 302 ho motor and t-5 trans with some sort of rear end cause it would just be cheaper now and in the long run and still be a super cool car! Also be cheaper in the long run and parts would be super easy to find. I just want to drive it now!!! Sorry just ranting and drunk and worked on the car for two days with nothing to show for it!!!! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384038/444-544/volvo_pissing.html?rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 04:03 GMT FYI: I've had the Barton regulator fail due to overheating. Went back to Bosch internal stock unit.%0D%0A%0D%0AI'd suggest trying to protect it from heat and keep a spare Bosch unit on hand.%0D%0A%0D%0ABert http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384601/220/240/260/280/adjustable_external_volt_reg_set.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 01:28 GMT Mossguy,%0D%0A%0D%0AI congratulate you on finding a way to post a picture here. I tried once and either due to my advancing age or retro ADS I was unable to find a way to do this. I am usually pretty good with such things but this time it was a no go at this station. However, all the information posted is good to know.%0D%0A%0D%0AOnce again thanks Art and mossguy.%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384635/220/240/260/280/picture.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:46 GMT Posted by mistake! How do I delete these posts?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks!%0D%0ATom http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384375/220/240/260/280/picture.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 00:43 GMT OK, for those of us who read posts to learn should we be plagued by a similar curse, just where is this temp sensor located? I know where the coolant temp sensor for the temp gauge is but it sounds like this problem is referring to a different sensor?%0A--%0A1988 245A. Past: 1979 245A; 1987 244 M47; 1971 164E http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384632/220/240/260/280/fi_temperature_sensor_failure_symptoms.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:34 GMT I have an '88 240 Sedan which will act as if it's running out of gas and gradually increase in severity over a few minutes until it completely konks out. When this situation crops up you have a mile or so to get off the road to a shady spot or out of traffic at least. If you let it sit any length of time you can restart and go again but as it heats up the cycle repeats. It is much worse on hotter days and during cooler weather has gone 3 weeks without a spec of trouble. It is definitely heat aggravated.%0D%0A%0D%0AMy question is this. Can a bad temperature sensor actually stop the engine? I have thought it might cause bad running, bad gas mileage and so forth but not actually strand you on the side of the road.%0D%0A%0D%0ATomorrow afternoon I am changing out the sensor from another donor engine but it may take a week before the symptom could come back due to weather conditions getting cooler now. Changing this is another plodding stab at this elusive problem after changing over the course of the summer:%0D%0AFuel pump relay resolder, etc..%0D%0AAir filter new, needed it anyway%0D%0AIn tank pump and filter sock brand new, orig was dead%0D%0AMain pump from a good donor%0D%0AGas filter new%0D%0AFuel Pressure regulator from a good donor%0D%0ASwap FI computerbox from good donor%0D%0ASwap Ignition ECU from a good donor%0D%0ASwap complete distributer and wires, plugs from good donor%0D%0ASwap Ignition coil from good donor%0D%0ACleaned 25amp fuse connector blades%0D%0ACleaned #4 and #6 fuses, holder prongs, etc%0D%0ASwapped TWO different AMMs from donor vehicles, both good%0D%0ANO vacuum leaks I can find yet using starting fluid spray on joints, etc%0D%0ABlocked the airbox flapper open, no extra engine air heat%0D%0A%0D%0AI have tried tons of things here but I will never give up. The temperature sensor is something I've just ignored believing it couldn't cause engine shut down like this. I hope I'm wrong and that it will be the culprit. My question restated is, .. Has anybody out there had the temp sensor cause this "running out of gas" type of symptom?%0D%0A%0D%0AONE more thing, measured engine head, radiator hoses, etc with one of those infrared guns.. I get readings average around 185F.%0D%0A%0A--%0AGenesis 7:11 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384424/220/240/260/280/fi_temperature_sensor_failure_symptoms.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 04:50 GMT Had a 78 Honda Civic countless years ago when dinosaurs still roamed the earth and one had to duck spears and not bullets, it was a massive oil burner despite only having 30K miles on the clock "it sat for five years before I got my hands on it". I did a compression check and found that all four itsy bitsy cylinders were down on pressure by 30 to 40 PSI from spec. %0D%0A%0D%0AThe solution was to remove the plugs, fill the cylinders with kerosene, then drain the oil and over fill the crank case with kerosene instead of oil. I let the engine sit in that condition for three days followed by cranking the engine over for an additional three days by hand "once a day" with a wrench. After draining the "crud" out of the crank case and spinning the engine over with the starter to clear the cylinders, I put oil and plugs back in it.%0D%0A%0D%0AAfter that, the compression of all four itty bitty cylinders was perfect and the oil galley in the head was clean, heck, she ran great after that!%0D%0A%0D%0AShe finally died after a few years due to rust and a bent rear suspension, but thanks to the junk yard that bought her for $40, she became their "torch wagon", ie. holes cut in the roof so they could put welding gas cylinders in it so they could drive around the junk yard! %0D%0A%0D%0ASo yes, petroleum fuel products will clean an engine and help disintegrate carbon deposits but caution must be used. If you are asking why, clearing the cylinders will BLOW kerosene and kerosene vapor everywhere, one spark, it's all over! %0D%0A%0D%0Ajorrell%0D%0A%0D%0A %0A--%0A92 245 284K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently taking names and kicking reputations! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384631/220/240/260/280/adding_transmission_fluid_oil.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:12 GMT I took a look at the website and it's great source of info right down to chassis numbers.%0D%0A%0D%0ASince these are getting harder to come by; what about having members post sightings in the yards, recording the vin and what good parts are available.%0D%0A%0D%0AThis way, the rest of us could pull and save the rare parts needed to keep the rest of them alive and running.%0D%0A%0D%0AI would like to start with a sighting of a V6 Bertone in New Ringold, PA at EZ Pull off of Rte. 895. body was totally rusted out and interior was fair.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe engine and tranny looked to be in great shape.%0D%0A%0D%0AI will be going back in the next week and I will record the vin for the boards records. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384629/740/760/780/pnp_sightings.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 04:06 GMT All Volvo 780 Coupe fans and owners,%0D%0A%0D%0AMost of you are familiar with the Volvo 780 Information Site built by Eric Dela Cruz. He apparently abandoned the site in 2001. Yahoo just shut down Geo Cities where it was hosted. I captured most of the info and have it up at a Google pages site at: http://sites.google.com/site/volvo780coupe/%0D%0A%0D%0AI'll try to keep it up for a while. If you have any information, pictures, stories, etc, send them to me and I'll incorporate them. You can send them to me through the Brickboard or through a link on the site.%0D%0A%0D%0AHope this is helpful!%0D%0APatrick http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1383250/740/760/780/780_website.html?rss=1 Sat, 31 Oct 2009 20:06 GMT Checking the power steering belt adjustment is a good first step. That's the most likely cause of noise. %0D%0A%0D%0AFlushing the system and refilling it with synthetic ATF is a good idea too.%0D%0A%0D%0ACheck the alignment of the power steering pulley to the main crank pulley-- is it running straight? If not, suspect the power steering mounting bracket.%0D%0A%0D%0ATake the belt off the power steering pump and check for play by wobbling the pulley. Inspect it for leaks-- if the seal is shot it will be wet underneath. I just did a replacement of the power steering pump on my '92 945T and was surprised how inexpensive the pump was. %0D%0A%0D%0AI've seen steering racks that were still tight but that lacked assist because the internal seals were shot. Usually when the steering is sloppy it either inner or outer tie rod ends, or the lower steering u-joint that's bad. %0D%0A%0D%0AJack the front end up and check out the front end for free play. You may have several things that need attention.%0D%0A%0D%0AGood luck! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384628/740/760/780/740_power_steering_problem.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:58 GMT steering is stiff and squeals. have gotten 2 different opinions. one claiming probably power steering pump, another claiming racking pinion needs replacing.%0D%0A%0D%0Aperson who told me that it's the pump told me if it were the rack that the steering would be really loose(ie turning the wheel all the way and the wheels barely turn)%0D%0A%0D%0Aopinions?%0D%0A%0D%0Athanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384537/740/760/780/740_power_steering_problem.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 19:53 GMT There's a mild to stainless wire for welding the two together, plus whatever shielding gas you'll need for the job. Can be done... http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384625/120-130/304_stainless_steel_repair_panels_swemkit.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:45 GMT Hello All,%0D%0A%0D%0AAnybody have any idea about 304 ss repair panels are available?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks %0D%0A%0D%0Agreendread http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384293/120-130/304_stainless_steel_repair_panels_swemkit.html?rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 18:17 GMT you would need to isolate the ground at certain points. %0D%0ADepress the brake pedal.%0D%0A%0D%0ABegining at the bulb socket itself. Put a piece of tape between the board and the prongs of the socket to isolate the bulb. BTW: usually the outer shell of the bulb is the ground. Use the test light with the clamp end on the chassis and the pointed end on the back of the ground side of the socket. If the bulb and the test light light up then you know that the ground is bad between the bulb and the chassis. I assuming that the other bulbs are working correctly that if the ground was bad it would on the board between the turn signal socket and the common ground such as a kink in the plastic.%0D%0A%0D%0ANow for the positive side: Shave into the turn signal wire like peeling a potato before the white conector. clamp one end of the test light onto the chassis and probe with the pointed end where the turn signal wire insulation is shaved.%0D%0A%0D%0AIf the test light comes on then you have power to the lens assembly. Now probe with the light at the back tab of the positive side of the turn signal bulb; does the test light light up? If so the positive side of the board is defective.%0D%0A%0D%0AI hope this helps.%0D%0A%0D%0AFYI: I had this similar problem with one of my older Volvos and just hard-wired everything to prevent future and continuous problems. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384624/220/240/260/280/2_cents_worth.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:39 GMT I will recheck the grounds. I did just replace the circuit board so I rule out corrosion on the ground. But I did see some, what I believe to be, corrosion (brownish/black) on the white connector where yellow wire goes (pin 4). I could try and clean that up. %0D%0A%0D%0AI have a test light so how would I check the chassis ground? And how do I hard-wire from the white connector directly to the light? Just need some clues.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384619/220/240/260/280/2_cents_worth.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:58 GMT Hello BBs,%0D%0AI drive a 93 240 sedan and am really stumped by a no brake light issue. Here is the problem and what I&#128;&#153;ve done so far to remedy the situation.%0D%0A%0D%0AProblem: Right-side brake light doesn&#128;&#153;t work. The taillight is lit but no brake light. All other lights work on the rear assemblies including the left and upper brake lights.%0D%0A%0D%0ARemedies: %0D%0A - Replaced bulb%0D%0A - Checked fuse%0D%0A - Checked and cleaned bulb holder contacts%0D%0A - Checked ground connections%0D%0A - Checked the connection on the white plastic pin connector that clamps onto the printed circuit board and using tweezers, bent the metal points closer together for a better contact. I even added little metal strips to help with the connection%0D%0A - Finally, just last night, I replaced the circuit board with a new one. %0D%0A%0D%0ASo after all of that I still have no brake light. I am not too apt at testing for voltage but I think this is the natural next step in diagnosing the problem but I will need some guidance.%0D%0A%0D%0AI failed my NJ inspection and my 45 days are almost up. So any help would be greatly appreciated!%0D%0A%0D%0Ajcrooner%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1382791/220/240/260/280/brake_light_bulb_working_urgent_need_pass_nj_inspection.html?rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:37 GMT 1985 turbo wagon.....Thanks to all those who posted answers on my various questions on a/c belt tightening with split pulley....turns out if you tighten a couple bolts on side closest to a/c unit then hand turn the entire pulley a half turn and tighten up the rest it tightens right up. I completed my w/pump new t belt and tensioner and changing all vacuum hoses, belts, transmission fluid, etc. and it fired right up and really sounds smooth. I think the vacuum hoses had the biggest effect on it.I let it warm up a while but never could get the electric aux. fan to come on. Not sure it is working or if the temperature has to be really high to come on. Wondering if I just take the 2 wires from the bottom radiator hose fan switch and connect together then turn on the key if this is a best way to test the fan http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384621/220/240/260/280/auxilary_fan.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:18 GMT I bought an internal brush/reg and it was adjustable with a tiny screwdriver on the outside. I set it to 14.2 at the battery to take care of any drop in getting from the alt to the battery. Works great. Gotta be 4 years now%0A--%0A73 ES, 91 240, 98 S90 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384620/220/240/260/280/adjustable_external_volt_reg_set.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 03:00 GMT I have read all of the previous posts and your diagnostics are dead on on the positive side of the bulb but not the ground side. %0D%0A%0D%0AI would check the ground/negative side of the bulb and systematicly check to chassis ground.%0D%0A%0D%0AMy gut tells me the the ground on the pc board is bad or the ground end-connectors are corroded.%0D%0A%0D%0AHave you tried to hard-wire from the white connector to the right brake light AND hard-wire the ground as well? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384602/220/240/260/280/2_cents_worth.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 01:44 GMT Remember that the vibration from the turbo on the exhaust manifold may cause the heli-coil to fail over time. You can try that first but you may need to be prepared to re-tap in the end. It isn't hard and will only cost a little more.%0D%0AIt's a tough call as to which to do first.%0D%0AI would say if time and money are the issue then I would do the heli-coil. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384618/740/760/780/retap_larger_size.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:54 GMT Ill look into that too, going to stop by the auto store tomorrow and see about doing a Heli Coil. If it doesnt look to good ill just enlarge and do it that way. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384615/740/760/780/retap_larger_size.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:30 GMT So i finally got an uncracked manifold for my rebuilt turbo to put on my rebuilt motor! and guess what happens!!!!!!!! Im screwing down the manifold and the #1 Studs comes right out, doesnt break just strips right out of its hole, wouldnt you think the machine shop would have cought something like this during the rebuild process? %0D%0AFAQ says i should be able to get a Heli Coil in there, anyone tride this with the manifold bolted down? i really cant afforde to keep putting money into this i need to get it completed, im in over 1K now with all the problems i keep having during the rebuild. I dont want to remove the manifold as ive already gotten the turbo pipe;s connected and i would have to get new seals for that let alone the manifold seals!. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384596/740/760/780/fustrated.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 00:44 GMT I recently had my headers blasted and coated at jet hot. $200 range but a really nice job. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384617/120-130/68_122_header.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:52 GMT Yes it is almost identical except mine doesnt have the divider between the center 2 ports and there is a collector flange welded, which could have been added later, thanks for the pics (wish I could do that I think Im going to use it, have it blasted and hpc coated. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384404/120-130/68_122_header.html?rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 03:07 GMT Hi trying to find out which exhaust header is on my car. Im pulling the engine, to be replaced by a built b20. The header thats on there looks like an old tri Y type design. The center 2 exhaust ports are siamesed then goes into 2 pipes and a very short collector with 2 hole flange, am wodering if its any good or what to use. I know i need more info ( cam head work c/r etc. but just wonder if its worth saving Thanks, Mike http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384008/120-130/68_122_header.html?rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 01:55 GMT I would re-tap the hole for a larger size bolt.%0D%0A %0D%0AYou can get just the specific tap and die needed that is larger than the stripped hole.%0D%0A%0D%0AEnlarge the hole in the exhaust manifold for the larger bolt. There's enough meat around the hole; so you shouldn't have to worry about cracking.%0D%0A%0D%0AYou may need to enlarge the heavy washers to accommodate the larger bolt %0D%0AThe alum. head expands twice the amount of the cast iron manf. and needs to be able to flex.%0D%0A%0D%0ANote: The nuts on the exhaust manifold of the turbos are crushed to a slight oval shape and they won't always hold if old and rusty.%0D%0A%0D%0AYou can make your own by getting same size nuts and peening two opposite sides with a sharp punch making the nut now slightly oval. Built in lock-washer. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384613/740/760/780/retap_larger_size.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:21 GMT OK - it ran worse with the AMM disconnected. Re-connect, and look for another cause. My money is still on a vacuum leak, based on your symptoms as reported.%0A--%0AIn God We Trust. Everyone else, keep your hands where I can see them. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384612/220/240/260/280/240_hesitation.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 02:20 GMT ok - so%0D%0A%0D%0AToday it's at least 15 deg. colder outside. Took it for a drive, 20 mi or so. Now it is stalling at idle, even in neutral. At stoplights I had to put it in neutral and throttle it to keep the engine lit, then pop it into D to avoid causing a scene. Full gas tank made no difference. Highway driving not a problem, just the stops and starts.%0D%0A%0D%0ANext, came home and read all of your posts (thanks!)%0D%0A%0D%0ADisconnected Mass Airflow Sensor (also called AMM???)%0D%0A%0D%0AExtra trouble starting. Idle is terrible, but doesn't stall. Took it for a spin and tried to stall it, it wouldn't. Engine running rough. The same scenarios that would stall it with the Mass Airflow Sensor connected made it sputter a bit, run on fewer than 4 cylinders for a bit, but NO STALLS. Exhaust smells different. Check engine light is on now.%0D%0A%0D%0AAnother possibly helpful fact is that this car has 285k miles on it.%0D%0A%0D%0ATime to find a younger one?%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1384599/220/240/260/280/240_hesitation.html?rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 01:23 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/