http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/ The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2012, Jarrod Stenberg Thu, 17 May 2012 07:00 GMT Thu, 17 May 2012 07:00 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 120 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Well, as of this morning it won't stay running. It will start, idle extremely low and then stall after 5~ seconds. If I even slightly tap the gas peddle it stalls. And when it stalls it floods the motor with gas, so I have to unplug the injectors, turn it over until that fuel is burnt, then plug them back in and start it again. I still haven't had a chance to make the Fuel Pressure Tester, hopefully tomorrow I can, just thought I'd give an update. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528657/220/240/260/280/video_car_bogs_give_20_throttle_suggestions_bogging_stalling_power_loss.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 05:49 GMT My car has been bogging, and has hardly any power. I've replaced almost everything (swapped parts with friends cars, and replaced some of the parts with new ones). The list of things I've tried swapping includes: AMM, ECU, Ignition ECU, ECT sensor, FPR, Starter, Ignition Power Stage, Cap/Rotor/Wires, Spark Plugs, Catalytic Converter, Knock Sensor. I've also cleaned the AIC and Throttle Body, and I've verified that the TPS is working. I've also checked for vacuum leaks with propane, and checked the intake snorkel for cracks. So after all of that, it still runs like crap. I do not have any CEL's or codes for 2 and 6.%0D%0A%0D%0AIt seems like when I give it more than 15-20% throttle the timing is retarding and it stops making power. Also, the idle is extremely rough and this weekend it started a new thing where if it isn't warmed up completely before I tap (literally tap) the throttle it will die, and the motor floods with gas. %0D%0A%0D%0AHere is a link to the video: <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hJsdGhG9tv0">YouTube: Volvo 240 Bogging</a> %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528343/220/240/260/280/video_car_bogs_give_20_throttle_suggestions_bogging_stalling_power_loss.html?rss=1 Mon, 14 May 2012 17:26 GMT Greetings. I own a 1993 945 Turbo and ran across a nice used set of 17" S80 rims, known as the "Arakkis" with an offset of 49, riding on 225/50/17 rubber. I own a set of H&R 25mm spacers, so I'm wanting to know if these wheels/tires will fit on my 900 with the spacers. Many thanks. -Scott in St. Louis http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528655/940/960/980/V90/S90/s80_wheels_fit_940.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 05:29 GMT re: "...There would be so much crap under there that your average DIY home mechanic (which classic Volvo owners are known to be) would probably be hard pressed to appreciate it...."%0D%0A%0D%0AThat was an understatement. Have you lifted the hood of any modern car in the past few years? You can't even see the engine! All you see is this big shield (metal, plastic, whatever) almost filling the engine bay from edge to edge (where you can't even squeeze in your hand), and a few little do-dads (coolant overflow, washer bottle, and if you're lucky you might see a dipstick or two) around the perimeter.%0D%0A%0D%0APlus, you can't get any service/maintenance/repair (whatever you want to call them) manuals -- all you can get anywhere is a worthless Chilton (or whatever) with generic advice such as how to gap a sparkplug.%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528656/220/240/260/280/understatement.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 05:37 GMT One problem with bringing the line back into production would be the insanely high number of requirements it would have to meet for today's emissions and mileage standards. Under the hood, it would look nothing at all like the older cars. There would be so much crap under there that your average DIY home mechanic (which classic Volvo owners are known to be) would probably be hard pressed to appreciate it nearly as much. And would they really be just as reliable and over-engineered as the older ones, or would we see the same sorts of extreme cost-cutting measures of today applied to it?%0D%0A%0D%0AYeah, we could have a modern 240-styled car, but I think it would appeal to very few people simply because it seems most 240 owners appreciate them for both the form AND the function. Without the relative simplicity and intuitiveness of their function, you'd lose that appeal.%0D%0A%0D%0AJust my opinion anyway. :-) I would love to see a new 240 too, but I'm afraid of what it would be reduced to!%0A--%0AZach in Vista, CA<br /><br />1992 245 DL, B230F, LH2.4, M47<br />1970 145 S, B20B, SU HS6 x2, M41 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528580/220/240/260/280/intersting_article_volvo_240.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 May 2012 18:43 GMT http://cnnmoney.mobi/primary/_sH9t0e-iYRH4pMh1V%0D%0A%0D%0AHawkeye http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528466/220/240/260/280/intersting_article_volvo_240.html?rss=1 Tue, 15 May 2012 18:37 GMT Yes, the mounts are the same. I've installed the larger rear piston calipers on earlier cars. %0A--%0Ajohn http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528654/740/760/780/rear_brake_caliper_interchangability.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 05:04 GMT All,%0D%0A%0D%0AI am doing a brake job on my '85 740, among other things, and it appears that my rear calipers are frozen. They have a 34mm piston and I was wondering if I could swap in a remanufactured caliper with a larger piston for a little extra stopping power, since they are same price? Are mounts for the larger piston calipers the same?%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks!%0D%0ABrian http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528647/740/760/780/rear_brake_caliper_interchangability.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 03:59 GMT %0D%0AYep, a lot to try for. %0D%0AIf that were all black interior I'd pay $10K for it now. %0D%0A%0D%0AI paid $10K for my 91 sedan 10 years ago with 60K, now 220K. Worth every dime I paid.%0D%0A%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528653/220/240/260/280/gotta_love_insanely_priced_volvos.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 05:01 GMT Looks really nice. One of my favorite colors and on a wagon too.%0D%0A%0D%0AIf I win the lottery or some big sum of money in the next few weeks its mine. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528636/220/240/260/280/gotta_love_insanely_priced_volvos.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:29 GMT Maybe in 40 years when there are a thousand or fewer 240's left in the States (adjusting for inflation of course)!%0D%0A%0D%0Ahttp://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/ctd/3001867337.html%0D%0A%0D%0ANice looking car, though...%0D%0A%0A--%0AZach in Vista, CA<br /><br />1992 245 DL, B230F, LH2.4, M47<br />1970 145 S, B20B, SU HS6 x2, M41 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528605/220/240/260/280/gotta_love_insanely_priced_volvos.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 May 2012 23:20 GMT Thanks Eric,%0D%0AJust what I needed to know, you saved me a lot of trouble (again).%0D%0A%0D%0ANow looking for two 68 122 seat back frames. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528652/120-130/140_lumbar_adjust_knobs_122.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 04:53 GMT Hello,%0D%0A%0D%0AI am pretty sure you can not bolt on a 140 seat back to a 122 lower seat frame.%0D%0A%0D%0AStarting in 1968, the 122 seat backs came with a knob to adjust the lumbar support and of course a headrest.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe knob is different for the 140 seats.%0D%0A%0D%0AThe 122 lumbar adjusting knob has a lot longer threaded shaft in comparison to the 140 lumbar adjusting knob.%0D%0A%0D%0AYou might be able to transfer the necessary parts to an 1965-1967 seat back frame, but it would be easier to find a 1968 seat back frame.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0A--%0AEric<br>Hi Performance Automotive Service (formerly OVO or Old Volvos Only)<br>Torrance, CA 90502 http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528650/120-130/140_lumbar_adjust_knobs_122.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 04:26 GMT Today&#128;&#153;s goal is to install 140 lumbar adjust knobs on 122 seats (to avoid having to use screwdriver to adjust lumbar).%0D%0A%0D%0AIs 140 seat internal lumbar adjust assembly similar/compatible to 122?%0D%0Ai.e. Can 140 adjust mech be put into a 122 seat back?%0D%0A%0D%0AI remember Eric addressing it once, but can&#128;&#153;t find it.%0D%0A%0D%0ATo work with I have:%0D%0A1966 (post 65) 122 seats with freshly powder coated frames, new webbing and good original upholstery and a pair of 1968 140 seats w/knobs.%0D%0A%0D%0AHow do I result in retaining 122 seat frames and upholstery and have 140 turn knobs function?%0D%0A%0D%0ANever had a 140 seat back apart (yet). %0D%0AThanks%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528530/120-130/140_lumbar_adjust_knobs_122.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 May 2012 05:18 GMT Thanks to all who graciously provided diagnostic support!! My 1993 Volvo 940 is now back on the road... The root cause of the sudden engine stop turned out to be the power stage ignition amplifier (aka ignition control module). A few responders 'hit the target'!%0D%0A%0D%0AMany thanks for the help!%0D%0A%0D%0AOnlyVolvo http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528649/940/960/980/V90/S90/sudden_engine_stop_1993_volvo_940.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 04:01 GMT My 1993 Volvo 940 engines suddenly stops after running very smoothly for only a few minutes. The car will not restart immediately but if left to cool for a few minutes it will restart. I remain uncertain about the cause. A few years ago, I replaced the crankshaft position sensor... but I do not belive that it is the CPS. I checked the OBD. Codes were 1-1-1 for both Ignition System and Fuel System, i.e., no fault detected. If it were the CPS, the ODB would indictae as such. Could it be an intermittent fuel pump relay? Other? I have never experienced a sudden engine stop like this.%0D%0A%0D%0AI would greatly appreciate any advice. This car has been a gem!%0D%0A%0D%0AMany thanks,%0D%0A%0D%0AOnly Volvo http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528078/940/960/980/V90/S90/sudden_engine_stop_1993_volvo_940.html?rss=1 Fri, 11 May 2012 03:32 GMT Well, it is just about time to find her a 700 series to tool about town in.%0D%0A%0D%0AHad a friend with three daughters. As they grew to driving age ..he put them all in 700 series ..NON Turbo, of course ! %0D%0A%0D%0A:)%0A--%0A &quot;Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528648/740/760/780/weird_sound_coming_front_vents.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 04:00 GMT Just about 184k on my 91 740 with no major issues yet.I am the 3rd owner. My 15 yo daughter says my car is old. I just smile! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528640/740/760/780/weird_sound_coming_front_vents.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:37 GMT Weird as hell! Sounds like dry leaves being crushed / water hitting a fan blade , like water being splashed vigorously with fingers. It started last week , very faint , but now its getting louder whereby I was able to pinpoint its location under the dash ,sorta behind the front center vents. It is louder when moving off and can be simulated by accelerating , though not as loud then. When stopped , I can rev the car and hear it. The sound does not exist at idle. There are no internal leaks of any fluid that I can see nor any under the hood for that matter. Engine cooling is fine. Does not matter if the A/C is on or not or whether the blower fan is on..I really don't know where to start on this one..can someone chime in...regards http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528376/740/760/780/weird_sound_coming_front_vents.html?rss=1 Mon, 14 May 2012 22:21 GMT Kewl!%0D%0A%0D%0AI live between Pell City and Dega. I go to church in Coldwater ...one exit back from the main Oxford exit.%0D%0A%0D%0ATis a small world we live in! :)%0A--%0A &quot;Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528646/740/760/780/woohooac_working.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 03:58 GMT Automotive Compressor Works(ebay store) in Texas. Great phone support. Brand name on compressor is Seltec. The hoses I bought from Rockauto. I see you're in AL. Wife's from up the road from you, Oxford. %0D%0A--%0D%0APost Back. That's whats makes this forum work. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528639/740/760/780/woohooac_working.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:36 GMT Well, field coil went bad. Attempted repair, lasted 10mins. Figure compressor was original(1985) Found a new(not reman) compressor, receiver/dryer, orifice tube, oil and o-ring kit for $198 shipped. One line was replaced last summer, went ahead and replaced the compressor to receiver/dryer. Flushed the system, hooked all up. Blowing cold again. (converted to 134 8yrs ago) %0D%0AThanks to the FAQs again.%0D%0A--%0D%0APost Back. That's whats makes this forum work. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1527963/740/760/780/woohooac_working.html?rss=1 Wed, 9 May 2012 23:45 GMT Looks like a dealer - note all the other shiny vehicles lined up. Bet they gave somebody $3k on trade-in, or got it at an auction for about that $$.%0A--%0ABob: son's XC70, dtr's '94-940, my 81GL, 83-DL, 89-745(V8) and 98-S90. Also 77-MGB and some old motorcycles. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528644/220/240/260/280/gotta_love_insanely_priced_volvos.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 03:24 GMT I wouldn't trust it! I go down to the nearest junk yard find a full size rim and put a full size tire on it. Full size tires will fit in the trunk space. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528643/220/240/260/280/87_245_auto_spare_tiredonut.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:53 GMT Hi All%0D%0A%0D%0ADo you ever replace your donut? Mine is 25 years old, is it still safe to use it? %0D%0A%0D%0AThank you. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528613/220/240/260/280/87_245_auto_spare_tiredonut.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 00:24 GMT Hi,%0D%0A%0D%0AYou can usually find a seller on ebay that manufactures them here in the US, can't remember the seller but just look for the lenses selling at about $25 with free shipping. %0D%0A%0D%0ATravis http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528642/220/240/260/280/headlight_replacement_help.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:51 GMT Hello Board,%0D%0AI need a lens for the drivers side headlight. Everything else is good. I just need%0D%0AThe lens. The places where the adjusters seat is broken on one side.%0D%0AI have two questions: 1.Which ones should I get? Are the aftermarkets, like the ones sold on amazon, good enough? 2. If I only replace one side will that create a problem?%0D%0A%0D%0AIve gone over the discussions about upgrading to the ecode, but I dont want the expense of that. Stock is good enough for me. %0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for any help%0D%0A%0D%0ALarue%0D%0A http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1527773/220/240/260/280/headlight_replacement_help.html?rss=1 Tue, 8 May 2012 00:37 GMT Actually ...over 350K now. I need to update. :)%0A--%0A &quot;Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528631/740/760/780/weird_sound_coming_front_vents.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:20 GMT Where did you get the parts ...kat?%0A--%0A &quot;Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528633/740/760/780/woohooac_working.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:22 GMT FPR = fuel pressure regulator ....right?%0D%0A%0D%0ABrain just came back on. :)%0D%0A%0D%0AThat misting trick at night was a good hint ... definitely should show up bad wires.%0D%0A%0D%0AI wish you well ..friend!%0A--%0A &quot;Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528638/220/240/260/280/hard_starting.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:33 GMT Thanks for all the help/suggestions. I have replaces the cap, and taped (elec. tape) the plug wires that were chafing on the valve cover. All were less than a year old. It is (still) raining here so I will be able to determine if this worked tomorrow morning. I wish I had these suggestions before this past weekend when I bought a new FPR that I didnt need and didnt really have to money for. %0D%0AAgain. Thanks for all your help. maybe someday I might be able to help someone here instead of just asking for help. %0A--%0A-Kilted Chaos Manager- http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528597/220/240/260/280/hard_starting.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 May 2012 21:38 GMT I have been searching the forum index first before I ask this (again) but the symptoms are as follows; cold start in the morning after sitting all night, very difficult, then oes not want to run, stalls when pressing accelerator. After it has been driven for several miles (6-ish) it starts/runs perfectly. Previous suggestions were FPR, which I did change as this has happened before (jeep) with the same symptoms. There has been no change. It is predominantly a wet weather issue as well. Several days ago, it had not rained in 24+ hrs (rare lately) and there was no problem. This leads me to believe the problem is some how electrical? Right now this is our ONLY car and my wife has a harder time with getting it going than I do. Either way, needs to be fixed ASAP. %0A--%0A-Kilted Chaos Manager- http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528561/220/240/260/280/hard_starting.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 May 2012 16:33 GMT Who knows? %0D%0A%0D%0AI would venture as long as there is a market ..and as long as they last ..that could be a long, long time.%0A--%0A &quot;Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528635/220/240/260/280/87_245_auto_parts_volvo.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:25 GMT %0D%0AHi All%0D%0A%0D%0ADo you know when Volvo will stop supplying parts for 240s? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528615/220/240/260/280/87_245_auto_parts_volvo.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 00:33 GMT Here you go.%0D%0Ahttp://www-ese.fnal.gov/People/wilcer/volvo_trailing_arm_bushing_tool.htm%0A--%0A &quot;Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528634/220/240/260/280/87_245_auto_rear_arm_trailing_rod_bushing.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:24 GMT Hi All%0D%0A%0D%0AIs this something I can do without using 4' breaker bar and hydraulic lift? There are no rust around that area. Thank you. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528616/220/240/260/280/87_245_auto_rear_arm_trailing_rod_bushing.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 00:39 GMT Well I'll be damned, a loose wire at the ignition amplifier connector!%0D%0A%0D%0AI have a sneaking suspicion that the tech that last worked on it broke it.%0D%0A%0D%0AWhen I went to look at the ignition amplifier (IA) I noticed that the boot was pulled back and wires exposed. %0D%0A%0D%0AI disconnected the connector from the IA and noticed that the #5 wire was pulled back slightly in the connector. I pushed it forward into position but it did not "click". The connector has been broken and the #5 wire does not clip into it anymore. The wire probably made *some* contact but intermittently missed, which is exactly how it felt driving it.%0D%0A%0D%0AI removed the screws on the IA mounts, pulled it off, made the connection by pushing the wire into the connector from the back so that it would clip onto the male end and stay put (at least until I get to the junkyard and replace it).%0D%0A%0D%0ASo far it has run perfectly, even with the new Bosch coil that was giving me trouble. Which I must now apologize for calling "junk" or some similar word.%0D%0A%0D%0AHopefully it holds up and I can start rebuilding my confidence in this vehicle.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks for all of the help, suggestions, and humor along the way! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528632/220/240/260/280/new_coil_now_runs_really_rough_89_240.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 02:21 GMT I was having a rough running/stumble that disappeared after installing a new coil.%0D%0A%0D%0AThat was a couple days ago.%0D%0A%0D%0A50 miles later the car is running worse than ever.%0D%0A%0D%0AStarts and idles great but hit the gas and it starts backfiring, stumbling, and eventually surging. If I floor it the engine smoothes out after a couple seconds and runs strong while at high RPMs.%0D%0A%0D%0ASo I put the old coil in and it runs much smoother!%0D%0A%0D%0ANew plugs, wires, cap, rotor.%0D%0A%0D%0AAny ideas? http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528055/220/240/260/280/new_coil_now_runs_really_rough_89_240.html?rss=1 Thu, 10 May 2012 22:10 GMT Wow 319k on a 94 940 ! Definitely a possibility..will look into this ..thanks http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528618/740/760/780/weird_sound_coming_front_vents.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 00:43 GMT I am facing same exact problem. Could you please guide as to where to measure the resistance and how? I am inept electrically and my mechanic gave up on this problem. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528629/220/240/260/280/way_test_odometer_motor.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 01:58 GMT If you have a multimeter or DMM you can measure the resistance of the motor coils on the circuit board. I would recommend resoldering each solder joint on the ODO motor circuit board, I have fixed many of them this way.%0D%0A%0D%0Ajorrell%0D%0A%0A--%0A92 245 317K miles, IPD'd to the hilt, 06 XC70, 00 Eclipse custom Turbo setup...currently being enjoyed! http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1511270/220/240/260/280/way_test_odometer_motor.html?rss=1 Sun, 18 Dec 2011 23:33 GMT 1990 244 216K%0D%0A%0D%0AI have an dead odometer. It had been intermittant but has not worked for several hundred miles at this point. I opened it up and the gears appear fine.%0D%0A%0D%0AIs there a way to test the motor? I do not have a power supply and I doubt it is 12v.%0D%0A%0D%0ARandy http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1511264/220/240/260/280/way_test_odometer_motor.html?rss=1 Sun, 18 Dec 2011 22:21 GMT I bought just the lenses from lampsandlenses.com and replaced them on the original housing units. A bit of pain when the bolts started spinning inside the housing, so I had to cut those (Dremmel tool) and then replace with stainless (West Marine) which heads I epoxied in the housing so they don't spin. The old lens needs to be popped of, I had to cut it up with Dremmel disk along the perimeter. Sealed with marine sealant such as 3M 4200. Your marking lights reflective surfaces are likely deteriorated, so either get new, or as I did apply foil with glue. I followed instructions from one of the famous Volvo maintenance pages somewhere out there. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528628/220/240/260/280/headlight_replacement_help.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 01:51 GMT buy those sticky silicone pads that they sell to keep the phones on top of dashboard, kind of like the furry spot in Nissan Cube, and stand your cup on top of dashboard against the windshield. Turn gently. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528626/220/240/260/280/mcdonalds_sweet_tea_240.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 01:42 GMT Well ..never quite thought of it that way !%0D%0A%0D%0AAnyway ..IF you are somewhat addicted to Micky D's Tea ..it IS a neat place to stick it in a 240. %0D%0A%0D%0A:)%0A--%0A &quot;Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528564/220/240/260/280/mcdonalds_sweet_tea_240.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 May 2012 16:57 GMT I have a 92 145 wagon, and the lack of cup holders is sometimes aggravating.%0D%0A%0D%0AI found that when I stop for my large $1 sweet tea at Mickey D's ...I can wedge it right nicely between the small tray (in front of the radio) and the underside of the dash that juts out ...just above the radio.%0D%0A%0D%0AI will post a pix back later if someone asks ..or if this is not clear. Just makes for a neat spot for my tea ...thought others might like this tip ! :)%0A--%0A &quot;Do you think that's air you're breathing now'? (The Matrix 1999) '89 764 (retired), '94 940T (319K), 92 245 (207K) http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528549/220/240/260/280/mcdonalds_sweet_tea_240.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 May 2012 15:17 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528625/220/240/260/280/thank_will_check_report_back_nm.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 01:36 GMT Because the process of elimination can use up a few dollars worth of fuses, it is sometimes worthwhile to round up the usual suspects. In the case of fuse #16, those are the rear ashtray light (loose and shorting out) or the automatic shifter's gear indicator light. Takes only a few minutes to look at those items.%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A--%0D%0AArt Benstein <i>near Baltimore</i>%0D%0A%0D%0AWhy do supermarkets make the sick walk all the way to the back of the store to get their prescriptions while healthy people can buy cigarettes at the front. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528593/220/240/260/280/troubleshooting_instrumentsright_tail_light_fuse.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 May 2012 20:39 GMT I had the fuse that controls the instrument panel and the right tail lights burn out. Replaced it with another, started the car and it burned out promptly as well. Replaced it with another, turn the key to On position with lights on, it burned out again.%0D%0A%0D%0AOK, I admit, I have 1-year old tail light from lampsandlenses.com. Visually it appears OK. Rencently its right-most tail light bulb burned out, then again, replaced both times and it worked. Given others' reviews of non-volvo tail light replacements, I have a suspicion this is the culprit. But perhaps something in the instrument cluster?%0D%0A%0D%0ABeing inept in things electrical but in possession of a multimeter and Bentley manual, how can I tackle this methodically? Or perhaps just splurge for a new tail light, or perhaps just the two tail light sockets on IPDUSA? They used to sell just the circuit boards but I no longer see those online.%0D%0A%0D%0AThanks as always. http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528544/220/240/260/280/troubleshooting_instrumentsright_tail_light_fuse.html?rss=1 Wed, 16 May 2012 13:24 GMT They are starting to reduce ,inventory and are discontinuing numerous parts. You can't buy a battery or a steering rack for starters http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/1528624/87_245_auto_parts_volvo.html?rss=1 Thu, 17 May 2012 01:29 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/