http://www.brickboard.com/FORUMS/uid=20810 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. en Copyright 1997-2009, Jarrod Stenberg Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:51 GMT Sat, 21 Nov 2009 16:51 GMT brickadmin@denizen.net brickadmin@denizen.net volvo 1440 http://www.brickboard.com/images/logo_b_25.gif http://www.brickboard.com/ 25 25 The Volvo owner's resource since 1997. Dear Bogy, May this find you well. What does the dipstick show, when the car is at normal operating temperature? If the fluid level is then above max, some has to be drained. An over-full transmission is not good. To drain excess fluid, jack-up the car, place jackstands to support the vehicle. Place a pan under the tranmission drain plug. Gently open the transmission plan drain plug. Allow fluid to drain: the pan contains only about two quarts. It is better to do take down the level gradually. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387652&rss=1 Sat, 21 Nov 2009 04:33 GMT Dear compression stroke, May this find you well. If your car is a wagon, I'm pretty certain that a rear brake light cover from a 960 will fit on a 940, so long as the donor car is a 960 from the 1993 or 1994 model years. For these cars (1993 and 1994 940s and 960s), the rear brake light cover (beige) is Part #1392104. After 1994 - for 960s made in 1995 and later years - the rear brake light cover may not interchange with that on a 1993 940. The part number is 9126266 (beige). This part costs about $20, so even if it doesn't fit, you won't be out a ton of money. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387490&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:41 GMT Dear kris, May this find you well. The gauges themselves do not often fail, so near as I can tell from a few years of Brickboard posts. The most likely faults are: (a) micro-thin corrosion or a loose connection at the instrument cluster or (b) a faulty send-unit (the in-tank float device). To check for (a), when the the tank is full, should the gauge not register, thump the top of the dashboard, above the instrument panel. Use the flat of your hand, not a fist. If the gauge spring into life, then there likely is a loose connection. See the FAQs for how to access the back of the instrument cluster. To check for (b), see the FAQs, which describe in detail, the trouble-shooting procedure for the in-tank send unit. In the meantime - and at the risk of laboring the obvious - re-set your odometer every time you fill the tank. Use 20 mpg as the per-gallon burn rate. When the odometer registers, say, 360 miles, it is time to re-fill. At that point, you'll have about 1.5 gallons left, or, say, 30 miles of fuel. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387489&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 13:28 GMT Dear kris, May this find yu well. Did the gauge stop working suddenly? That is, did you start the car and notice that the gauge didn't show any activity, i.e., that the needle was pegged on empty? Or did the gauge become erratic, swinging back-and-forth, or moving abruptly from "empty" to half-full? If the gauge stopped working suddenly, after having working perfectly, it is possible that: (a) the gauge itself failed (b) a wire to the gauge was cut or disconnected. If the gauge worked, but erratically, it is likely that: (a) the send unit - in the fuel tank - may have failed (b) corrosion could have broken the circuit. Please post back with your answers. Please also consult the site's FAQs, accessible via a pull-down menon on the upper right of the screen. Hope this helps. Yours faihtfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387482&rss=1 Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:39 GMT Dear ScottN, May this find Well, You - and All with You. The warning applies to all cars, that have in them a battery. When the SRS system is energized, a thump to the sensor - affixed to the floor pan, under the driver's seat - could trigger an airbag deployment. That can be lethal. Thus the driver's seat in a 940 or 960 car should NEVER be removed, without the negative battery cable clamp having been removed from the battery's negative terminal, and until the cable clamp has been put into a plastic bag, to isolate it. If the battery has been removed, then the SRS system has been de-activated. Seats for a 960 or 940 can be shipped via FedEx GROUND, which has a limit of 130" on box girth + height. U-Haul sells a box, which is 24.5" on each side. If the box flaps are scored and re-folded, to raise the box height by about 3", to about 32", the seat - with headrest removed - will fit. The square gap in the top, created by scoring and re-folding the box flaps, can be closed with a piece of cardboard, taped securely. If these things be done, the box will fall within the FedExGROUND size limit. I have shipped seats this way. Seat motors usually do not fail. Rather, the switch and the seat computer - both of which contain relays - do fail. Also, drive cables wear, causing them to disengage from them motor. The FAQs show how to fix this problem. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387386&rss=1 Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:41 GMT Dear baboonia, May this find you well. I'd contact a Volvo dealer. They may have a database, that shows the engine's production date. That will give an idea of when it was installed in a car, and so the model year. If the dealer does not have this information, Volvo will have it. The problem: Volvo USA's customer service unit knows nothing about engineering/production and - far worse - is unwilling to contact those at Volvo, who have this knowledge. As an alternative, you might contact www.fcpgroton.com. As a top-notch parts supplier, they may know - or may know how to relate - the engine number to the model year car, in which it was installed at the factory. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387108&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 14:16 GMT Dear ScottN, May this find You well. I think You'll find the seat swap far easier. To change the skins, both sets of seats have to be removed. It is infeasible to remove the skins, without removing the seats. If the 1995 seats are mechanically sound - if they move smoothly in all directions, if any heaters work, and if the lumbar supports function, and if the upholstery (foam) is sound - they are a direct bolt-in. I cannot imagine the skins are in great shape, without the underlying foam also being in great shape. This saves you the labor of removing and replacing two sets of skins. This labor is not trivial. DEATH DANGER WARNING: Before trying to remove the driver's seat, remove the negative battery cable clamp from the battery terminal, and put the clamp in a plastic bag, to isolate it. This cuts power supply to the SRS (Airbag) System. The airbag sensor is under the driver's seat, affixed to the floor pan. If this sensor is banged - if you drop the seat on it, or drop a tool on it - the airbag could deploy. This can be lethal, at close quarters. It will also be costly: a new sensor is about $1,200. A new airbag is about the same. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387099&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 12:45 GMT Dear ScottN, May this find you well. They will fit, although the contours may not match precisely. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1387069&rss=1 Wed, 18 Nov 2009 04:26 GMT Dear Keith, May this find you well. Do you feel this through the seat or the floor pan (or neither)? Sometimes, a failing U-joint or driveshaft center support/bearing, can produce a speed-specific rumble. These sorts of problems will most often show up on acceleration and/or slowing. At 172K, it is just possible that a wheel bearing is starting to go However, these generally last upwards of 250K miles, unless damaged by road hazard, etc. Please post back. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1386299&rss=1 Sat, 14 Nov 2009 22:34 GMT Dear Random Guy, May this find you well. From what model/year did you take the unit? The same display unit was used in 1994 and 1995 940 cars. The item is Volvo Part# 9130198. Modifying factory-original wiring harnesses is to be avoided. Please post back. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1385921&rss=1 Fri, 13 Nov 2009 02:32 GMT Dear Simon, May this find you well. You're welcome. The conversion kit is, obviously, separate. My response was, I think, technically correct: the old-style and new-style units - out of the box - do not interchange. I have 940s, so did not have to face this issue. For other reasons, I had to acquire detailed knowledge of 940 front-end parts. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384920&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 16:50 GMT Dear GACyclops, May this find you well. The Volvo Part, #1347010, costs about $30. It installs at end of a harness, on the driver's side of the car, just above and to the right of the air dam (North American models). If memory serves, there is a plastic plug in the end of the connector, that has to be removed, so that the sensor can be installed. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384821&rss=1 Sun, 8 Nov 2009 01:54 GMT Dear Simon, May this find you well. Parts data from Volvo VADIS (the now-superseded dealer parts/maintenance database) show that the hubs are different and do not interchange, as between the 1985-87 740s, and the later models. In the earlier models, the hub and brake rotor were combined. In the later models, the hub - which houses the bearing - was separate from the rotor. Doing this makes sense: hubs are good for 200-300,000 miles. Rotors do not last that long. The hub, for a 1986 740 is Part #3516126. The hub, for a 1989 or later 740 is Part #271644. Both of these parts are for cars with ABS. For 740s, the strut housings, from which the stub axle protrudes, are also different: 1986: 1330826 or 1330827 1992: 1359840 or 1359841. So far as I know, bearings for the later hubs are not available separately. If the bearing fails, the entire hub must be replaced. I hope this is helpful. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384651&rss=1 Sat, 7 Nov 2009 11:37 GMT Dear Mila, May this find you well. I did use some washing-up liquid as a lubricant, to ease seating the plug into the grommet. I also used a dealer-fresh Volvo brand replacement grommet. The original grommet came with the Nissens aftermarket radiator. I, too, used a large slip-joint (water pump) pliers to press the plug into the grommet. On the radiator in question, I installed a plastic plug. As a result, there is no metal-to-metal contact. You're quite right to note that metal-to-metal contact between unlike metals can create corrosion. As a result, I'm not sure stainless wire can be used on the radiator, which has the sensor present. I'll check and post back. I'll prepare a short write-up for the FAQs, as the cost of doing this "upgrade" is small - in time and money - and the the benefits huge. Thanks for your comments!! Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384567&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 22:21 GMT Dear Volvodad, May this find you well. You're correct about the reason the plug was used. I'll look at the Rex-Regina temp sensor, and see if there's a way to install a "keeper wire", so that sensor stays put. I'll post my findings. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384433&rss=1 Fri, 6 Nov 2009 12:01 GMT Dear Fellow Brickboarders, May this find you well. I suggest a minor upgrade. Some 940 radiators have a plastic plug, press fit into a rubber grommet, just above the top transmission cooler pipe, on the right side of the radiator (passenger-side, North American models). To secure this "radiator plug", I've wrapped a single strand of stainless steel wire around the base of the brass fiting (to which the transmission fluid line connects), through the gap in top of the radiator plug, and around the radiator's top corner fin, closest to the plug. I twisted the ends of the wire, to snug them. I did not make the wire super-tight, only snug. This safety wire will keep the plug from backing out. Here's why. Early Tuesday evening, I parked at a library. I thought I heard running, the electric auxiliary cooling fan. That should not have been: the ambient temperature was 45-50Ëš(9-10ËšC). There was much background noise. I was pressed for time. The car sat for about an hour. I then drove home (2.1 miles). When I pulled into the garage and shut down, the electric fan was indeed running after I shut down. I at once opened the hood and was horrified to see en empty coolant overflow tank and coolant "puddles" on the right side of the engine bay. I thought a hose had failed, even though I'd just replaced the rad hoses with Volvo brand items. I quickly found that the radiator plug was missing. I at once checked the temperature gauge and found it to be right in the middle, where it usually is. This suggested that the engine had not overheated. I added two quarts of coolant and water, bringing the water level up to the opening of the radiator plug. Today, I replaced the plug and grommet with Volvo-supplied items, topped-up the system, and ran it until the temp gauge needle was in the center. There is no sign of coolant in the oil (the oil is clear, not milky/frothy). I think no harm was done to the engine because: (a) the drive was brief; (b) outside temperature was just below 50ËšF (10ËšC); and (c) the electric cooling fan worked. Moral of the story: secure the plastic radiator plug. It is a weak point. I think it simply worked loose. The stainless wire will hold it in place. I also connected the low coolant indicator wiring: I had put the wiring into place, but had not taken the time to complete the job. Lesson learned!!! I hope this is useful. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384352&rss=1 Thu, 5 Nov 2009 22:23 GMT Dear Alex98765, May this find you well. I've read prior posts. When the low fuel warning light comes on, you have left about a gallon, or enough fuel to go about 20 miles. The key word is "about": the distance will vary with the driver, the load, and the terrain. Thus, as soon as you see the low fuel warning light, find a gas station. Running completely out of gas, such that the engine sputters and dies, is not good for the fuel pump(s). The fuel helps to cool the pump(s), especially the in-tank pump (pre-pump for Bosch; main pump for Rex-Regina engines). In the last few seconds, before the engine dies (which turns-off the fuel pumps), the pump(s) will move a mix of air and fuel. That will not cool the pump properly. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1384111&rss=1 Wed, 4 Nov 2009 14:47 GMT Dear DRPetitt, May this find you well. Volvo VADIS (the now-superseded Dealer parts/maintenance database) shows identical part numbers (3514440) for the 1992 and 1995 Turbo exhaust manifolds. Applying heat heat will certainly help to free exhaust manifold nuts. If you don't have a torch handy, you might try saturating the nuts with PB Blaster (PB), a very effective penetrating oil. PB works its way through micro-channels in the corrosion, so weakening the corrosion bond. PB works best if you can saturate the nuts each day, for a few days. PB works even better if you do not use the car, as heat will - obviously - burn-off PB Blaster. I pulled an exhaust manifold at a salvage yard, and was surprised to find that the manifold bolts, though rusty, came-off with no great difficulty, after treatment with PB. If I recall correctly, I started by "tightening" the nuts, and then reversed direction, to loosen them. Only one stud came out of the head. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383827&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 14:17 GMT Dear yenna, May this find you well. According to the 1993 940 wiring diagram, heated seats are on a circuit with a 25-Amp fuse (No. 23). Powered seats are on a circuit with a 30-Amp fuse (No. 3). If you want to power the seats on the circuit used for the seat heaters, you'll need to install a 30-Amp fuse. I'd guess the wire on both circuits is of the same weight, so the additional load is unlikely to be problematic. Be sure to note on the fuse diagram, that this interchange has been done. There are other wrinkles, though. If you do according to the procedure set forth in the FAQs, the wire, that takes power to a powered seat, runs directly from the fuse block to the seat motor control switches, via the connector at front of the door-side seat rail. As a result, the seats can be moved, without the key being in the ignition. The wire, that takes power to the seat heaters, is switched. For the seats to work, the seat heater switches and the ignition will have to be in the "on" position. Anyone, who does not know this, will be unable to get the seats to move. Further, you'll have to move the white wire with black trace from the seat heater connectors (C31 / C32) to the connector C39, which houses the wire, that takes power to the seat motors. This is not hard to do. Be sure to position the white wire with black trace (seat heater) such that it connects to the red wire with black trace, that takes power to the seat motors. Running wires directly from the fuse block to the each seat keeps things very simple. If the seats don't work, the problem likely is in the seat switch/seat computer. If power flows through the seat heater switches (to which power arrives via a bypass relay on the main fuse block) trouble-shooting is far more difficult. As you note, the thin orange wire connects to the stop button. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383824&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 13:59 GMT Dear ChrisS, May this find you well. Because you don't get the shudder when the car is going straight ahead - when you apply the brakes - I'd guess the problem isn't brake related. Over-tight wheel lugs generally create a problem by slightly distorting the rotor. At speed, that can produce "shimmy" or "shudder". A "shudder" felt when the car is not going forward, but the steering wheel is being turned - e.g., when you're parallel parking - likely is rooted in the steering system or suspension. Have you checked the level of power steering fluid? Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383804&rss=1 Tue, 3 Nov 2009 11:31 GMT Dear trichard, May this find you well. The shudder was described as occurring when the wheel was being turned. Very often, when parallel parking, I turn the steering wheel, when the car is standing still. If the steering wheel shudders - i.e., does not move smoothly - that suggests there could be a problem with the power steering pump and/or rack. I want(ed) to know under what conditions the shudder is felt, i.e., only when the car is moving, or when the car is stationary, but the steering wheel is being turned. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383547&rss=1 Mon, 2 Nov 2009 02:43 GMT Dear ChrisS, May this find you well. A few questions. Does the shudder occur: (a) only when the car is not moving, or also when it is moving? (b) when the wheel is turned in either direction, or only in one direction? (c) when the steering is at "full lock", or before then? Have you checked the level of fluid in the power steering reservoir? As these questions suggest, the likely source of the problem might be the steering or front suspension, rather than the brakes. I presume you torqued the lug nuts to 63 pound-feet / 85newtonMeters. Please post back with your findings. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383484&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 22:22 GMT http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1383482&rss=1 Sun, 1 Nov 2009 22:17 GMT Dear Fellow Brickboarders, May this find you well. China has long been an "engineering culture": many centuries ago, they built the Great Wall, major canals, etc. That the Great Wall (like France's Maginot Line) did not keep out invaders isn't the issue: the wall, well-built, is still a wonder to behold. After 150 years of mismanagement - by royal fools and Communist thugs - China is getting back to its roots: solid designs and top-notch products. In an engineering culture, the thoughtful - who make good products - are respected and rewarded. This is so in North America (Canada/US/Mexico), South America (Brazil), the European Union (Germany/Italy/Sweden/France/Czech Republic), Asia (India/Japan/China/S. Korea). A top-of-the-line, Brand name power tool marked "Made in Brazil" or "Made in Korea" will work perfectly: use it with confidence. Thus, a Chinese firm's purchase of Volvo could be an excellent outcome. I'd guess the buyer looks to Volvo as a way to establish itself as a producer of quality goods. If so, they will not "hollow out" the Volvo brand, by producing junk. Rather, they'll strive to make top-notch products. They surely know that Volvo-owners are quality-conscious. Thus, it will not be long, before we know, whether or not Zhejiang Geely Holding Group Co. Ltd., will leverage Volvo's reputation, or destroy it. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382733&rss=1 Thu, 29 Oct 2009 13:54 GMT Dear rwvolvo, May this find you well. An ignition switch (Part #9447805) costs about $100 at a Volvo dealer. Tasca Volvo and Borton Volvo kindly discount, so you may be able to save a few dollars. Based on the symptoms, it does seem that the switch has failed. If the ignition key is part os a major key bunch, the weight will accelerate wear on the switch. Hope this helps. Yours faithfully, Spook http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/?id=1382416&rss=1 Wed, 28 Oct 2009 02:21 GMT Use the text input below to search brickboard.com query http://www.brickboard.com/FIND/