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With the exception of the P1800, I have owned at least one example of each of the RWD models. I find your evaluation of them to be well thought out, though biased in favor of the earlier cars. Here are my comments, based on actual experience:
122--You are mostly right on with this one. However, the rubber floor mats are a big minus as they trap moisture and make the floor rot out. With the exception of the 68 (and later, not imported to the US) models, these cars lack important safety features...
Hello,
Passing along an oil leak fix (finally)on the breather box.
Started a degrease campaign on the engine compartment a few months back and been tracking down and fixing small oil leaks. The area under the hood was a real oily mess after 22 years, a legendary clogged flame trap leak, and a poor job putting a valve cover on. One thing about changing over too and and running full synthetic motor oil is when it does leak makes cleaning that area a snap. Had what I thought was a rear seal l...
Don't panic. There isn't anything wrong with the 'crosshatch' type finish you show in the picture. A milling operation with no 'toe' on the mill leaves a pattern like you see. Use them - it will break in fine and you won't see any difference at your next pad change as all the pattern will be gone.
The only one that you need to avoid like the plague is Dexcool. That's the nasty stuff that eats radiator solder, gaskets etc. Just about any of the others are fine
I run Evans Waterless Coolant ( www.evanscooling.com )in all of my vehicles. Cheap insurance against overheats. Pretty much impossible to boil over on that stuff. It's saved two of my engines to date.
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-------Robert, '93 940t, '90 240 wagon, '84 240 diesel (she's sick) , '80 245 diesel, '86 740 GLE turbo diesel, '92 Ford F350...
When sitting in the driver's seat, look for the round rubber plug in the dashboard next to the "trip odometer reset" button. Dig out the plug, push the button behind it with something suitable (I use a paperclip or thin toothpick). Squish the plug back in.
As I was posing on my possible blown head gasket - I remembered that I hadn't posted the shots of the 240 rear end installed in the Canuck, so here it goes...
Back on the street for the first time since November! I wouldn't normally take that much time, but it was damn cold and there was a LOT of fabrication involved with my conversion.
I've kept the bolt spacing oringinal, which meant welding up the axle...
Three grand?!? I think I would remind this mechanic that his fees are for competent diagnostics performed to industry standard as well as just randomly replacing parts, a fact that often stands in small claims court...
Stop swapping parts and start measuring. Put in a new set of copper plugs gapped to spec (Bosch or NGK) so that it will run while you diagnose.
Pull the OBD codes as others have suggested. There may be meaningful clues there. More often than not they provide clues rather th...
In my other posting I meant to explain a simple method of adjusting the valves--but didn't--guess I got tired and faded away. This method will work for inline 4's or 6's -- or 8's for that matter. In the case of the 4 cylinder -- #1 piston and #4 work in tandem--#2 and #3 work in tandem -- when one piston is on it's compression stroke the mate is on it's exhuast stroke--You want to adjust each of the valves with the cylinder on the compression stroke. In order to keep track start with adjusti...
The picture is a little fuzzy, but you get the idea.
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john
©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2007. All material except where indicated.
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