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I was in a pinch for an oil filter so stopped by my local indie mechanic that I frequent from time to time. I purchased a Meyle filter for $6, "Volvo OEM" I was told.
I'd had this filter installed for ~2,000 miles and at every start up the oil light would stay on for 2 full seconds.
Now back in stock in my basement, I replaced it with a MANN filter (~500 miles ago) and no more oil light staying on at startup. It appears the stories are true that the MANN filter has the bests drain back v...
I'll chime in here with a data point
notes:
**maintenance includes EVERYTHING: tune-up, repair, oil changes, tires, body work,-- I keep a very detailed excel spreadsheet
**I do all my own work with the exception of AC recharges and alignment / balance
My '90 240:
In my possession for 6.8 years (290k now, 209k at time of purchase)
$3,000 purchase price
$5,673 total maintenance
=$8,673 / 6.8 years = $106/mo cost of ownership (including purchase price)
maintenance = $70/mo average
My '93 940:...
Welcome to Brickboard!
Your best bet when searching for answers is to use Google's site-specific search function; that is, type your search terms followed by "site:brickboard.com" (without the quotes). Whatever else one believes about Google and their ethical and legal standings, their search engine is far more likely to produce salient results than the built in search here on the Brickboard. Another trick there is to include "200" as a search term, limiting your results to the 200-series foru...
IMHO, PIAA's offerings are badly overpriced for the quality. My choice is GE Nighthawk which give a somewhat whiter light output than standard halogens and last about as long. I tried the Sylvania Silverstar - they had short lives, were pricey, and have many detractors in car websites.
Avoid high-wattage bulbs as these are firstly, illegal, and secondly, can damage the plastic headlamp housings.
Bear in mind that whatever bulbs you use you are still saddled with those plastic lenses that li...
No, I don't want any.
--
1980 245 Canadian B21A with SU carb, M46 trans, 3:31 dif, in Brampton, Ont.
Yes, I know there are plenty of Volvos with more miles than mine. That being said, mine reached 400,000 miles yesterday. It's a '88 wagon. The M-47 was replaced years ago otherwise it's original. If everything stayed the same (and it rarely does) I should hit half a million in 52 months.
--
Bob, SC, 1965 PV544, 1988 240 wagon
If a green, red, brown, or sometimes black 240/260, you'll see the tan/beige color. The tan/beige plastics went to hell if in a UV-rich environment at altitude. The beige/tan fades faster than the black or blue interiors and can become frail and crack and fracture more easily; certainly in very cold weather.
The black, blue, and several grey interior variations are the most durable and lasting in UV-rich environment.
The darker the plastics, the more durable.
Also, the same seems to hold tru...
"So jumping 4 and 6 will basically do the same job as the relay?"
Yes, most of the time. It depends on which of the TWO relays inside that white cover is failing. Besides the "pump" relay, there is a "system" relay that seldom fails, but when it does, the FI system is totally dead.*
(Aside to Onkel Odo: There is no component diagram on the white plastic LH relay case.
But the terminals to connect to force the pump ON are 30 and 87-2.)
Here's an alternative to paper clip fuse jumpering...
No.
Also, if the fuel pump relay dies you can always jumper around it. Take relay, locate the appropriate lugs that supply run voltage to and from the relay. Make a small jumper from wire (probably 14-16 ga primary wire) and two or more male spade crimp connectors (I do not have a relay in front of me but has a diagram on it).
Finally, draw a map and keep it in the glove box. Repeat with all other relays. While you have them out, resolder them.
This stuff does not have to be hard in the c...
©Jarrod Stenberg 1997-2011. All material except where indicated.
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