Any advice out there from personal experience on preferred front upper strut mount/bearing assy? ('84 242, KONI Sports, IPD sport springs, SBF/T5). I've done the full rear upgrades- IPD springs, adj. Panhard, adj. torque rods, KONI sports, all the bushings, etc, now moving on to the front.
No real need, (I don't think) for Kaplhenke style items, car will not be raced, just a nice street car, but since the IPD springs will lower the car, maybe the added adjustability IS needed for alignment?
Price varies widely! from super cheap to around a hundred bucks a piece. What have others used? Genuine Volvo? KYB? Or other?

It hasn't been said yet, but my 245 has Jamex lowering springs, and because of the stock diameter, I can't get enough negative camber, and the tires don't wear evenly.

It has been mentioned that there are no stock style upper strut mounts currently made that will last for any length of time.

For these 2 reasons, I will be swapping to solid upper mounts with coilovers.
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looking at the Kaplhenke stuff. Looks great but not cheap. I have an '84 242DL, currently working on replacing all front end bushings with poly stuff from IPD, (rear already done, adj. panhard, torque rods, etc)) and bead blasting, painting/powdercoating everything in sight under there while it's apart. Have IPD "sport" lowering springs and Koni Sport shocks.
Wondering though; with the stiffer springs, shocks and poly bushings, there's not much "give" anywhere in front suspension. The Kaplhenke stuff is solid aluminum, so no "give" there, either. I live in Michigan; todays news brings word Michigan roads are WORST in USA! Hooray! We're #1!! It's like a constant "pavement motocross". Back when I worked in bike shops, I made a pile of money replacing $$$$$ Ducati bent wheels and blown out tires from potholed roads. Avg about 3-5 a week in season.
The Kaplhenke stuff should deal with any alignment issues from lowering the Volvo, but is it gonna ride like a cement truck? Not doing any racing with this car, just want a nice, quick, comfortable street car. Have a lowered, manual trans pickup with big wheels and sport shocks if I want to rattle my fillings.
Not much in the way of twisty roads around here, either, have to go maybe 50 miles W, minimum about 150+ miles to SE, or South, to find any fun roads. It's not Florida, but still....
So, Kaplhenke front suspension stuff overkill for this car?

From my post up above --- "I strongly prefer the current set up. Even though firmer, all bumps are one-and-done. Actually seems MORE refined with this set up than previously."

The one change I strongly encourage is the move to poly control arm bushes on the front suspension. However -- IMPORTANT -- the stock rubber bushings contribute to the front spring rate in a non-linear fashion because they are designed to twist the rubber as the control arm moves through its arc. You LOSE that spring rate when you go to poly bushings which DO NOT twist the poly as the control arm moves. So it's possible at large control arm deflections that an IPD sport spring with a poly bushing may actually be as soft as or softer than a stock Volvo spring with a working rubber bushing.

Additionally - if you go with Ben's caster/camber plates/upper bushings - you won't get much out of the adjusters because of the diameter of the stock size springs. Moving to adjustable perches and 2.5" springs allows a lot of adjustment.

As mentioned in my original reply above, you won't find anything that works any better. And as my dad taught me long ago - it's only expensive if you can't afford it. ;)

I haven't had good luck with any of the "stock" replacements out now. Have you replaced yours yet? My 245 V8 has the same mounts since the 90's, still good. I think they were the Volvo brand. On my 242 I put in Meyle bushings and they failed within a year. That was after using a cheaper brand that failed. I'm willing to spend more if they will last without having a harsh ride. How is the Kaplhenke with ride/noise?

Prior set up was traditional upper 'bearings'; IPD sport springs; rubber bushings on the control arms; Bilstein HD inserts. Now - Koni Sports, Eibach springs (2.5x spring rate); poly control arm bushes; Ben's caster/camber plates; luxe steer strut bearings. I strongly prefer the current set up. Even though firmer, all bumps are one-and-done. Actually seems MORE refined with this set up than previously.

I'm pretty much all Kaplhenke on my street driven 82 242/LS3. I used his castor/camber plates and his "Luxe Steer" strut bearings. All I can tell you is that all that stuff really works nicely together. Koni Sports, Eibach springs (2.5" x 12" x 275 lb/in front; 5" x 14" x 200 lb/in rear), Ben's adjustable perches front/rear; IPD 28mm/22mm sway bars; IPD adjustable Panhard; IPD adjustable upper torque arms; Ben's strut brace and master cylinder brace; poly bushings throughout; reinforced lower rear control arms; Ben's adjustable front sway bar links; Ben's roll center adjusters for the front tie rod connections. It's not inexpensive, but you won't find anything that works better.

Amazing how much $$$ variation there is on the strut mount/bearing assys! From $9 and change ea. (Rockauto), up to around $85 each!
Reinforced lower rear control arms? The trailing arms? Did you "box" them? Top and bottom? Sides, too? I was thinking they looked a bit fragile for V8 use when I had them in the blast cabinet. Went to the poly bushings from IPD on the front of them, then painted 'em, but have not done the other bushings on the axle housing. Have a complete axle assy from the '84 manual trans Turbo parts car, easier to do it with axle assy. on jack stands, then paint and swap whole thing.

Bright spot- my welding is getting a LOT better!

basically boxed top and bottom. Sides are already "solid" -- nothing to "box" there.