Finally getting to the suspension on my 242V8 project. I see on EBay a seller is offering a coilover set up for 240 Volvos, "BC Racing BR coilovers" for around $1,000. Adjustable compression/rebound, adjustable ride height, adjustable front camber plates, "pillowball" (?) mounts, custom spring rates and valving available as are rebuild parts. I had intended to go with a set of KONI Sports for their adjustability, but adding up the $600 or so for the Konis, $300 for IPD springs, upper shock mounts, etc, etc, I'm WAY, WAY over $1,000. Lifetime warranty on KONI vs 1 year on BC Racing coilovers. Could these be a cost effective alternative? NOT building a race car, just a sweet handling street car. I know some have gone to coilover set-up, anybody out there have any thoughts/personal experience with these or any other brand of coilovers? Sea changes in life situation of late has meant money is tight, can't afford to "experiment", very willing and grateful to listen to others.

Have had many suspension iterations on mine. In the spirit of "the best way to spend a TON of money is to have to do the same job 2 or 3 times because you weren't happy with the parts you picked the first time..." I'll offer this.

I went with Kaplhenke Racing parts from Ben Kaplan up in MD. Absolutely first rate stuff -- I think the best engineered product on the market. And you pay for what you get -- it's not inexpensive. But you won't find anything better. And I finally got a set up that works the way I want it to. NO COMPARISON to using stock sized "sport" springs from IPD and others.

Mine has Ben's adjustable coil overs on the front - Eibach 275 lb/in springs, Ben's adjustable spring perches on the rear with Eibach stock diameter 200 lb/in springs. Ben's "Luxe Steer" strut bearings, roll-center correctors (correct the roll center due to lowering the car), Ben's caster/camber plates, Koni Sport dampers, poly bushings all around, reinforced rear lower control arms, IPD 28mm front "drop" sway bar and no sway bar in the rear. With 440 lb-ft of torque, and a bit of roll stiffness from the rear poly bushings, no rear bar desired (which shaves off weight!). I also kept the ride height where I don't have to dodge driveways and such and didn't have to cut the front strut tubes. I think front springs are 12" free length and 2.5" diameter. Rear are 14" free length and 5" diameter.

Car is firm/taut -- I think it rides better than it did with IPD springs and Billy HD's -- all bumps are one and done. It's not the least expensive option - but I'll promise you, you won't be second guessing yourself.

Thanks, Mike. Your input/experience is without equal. Have you ever thought of writing a book based on your experience on the 242 V8 swap? Of all the 200 series V8 swaps I have seen, yours is by far the one I would wish to own. You have done the 5.0 Ford swap and now, a GM LS. Your experience with suspension set-ups is invaluable. I've done my research and your recommendations are what I'll do to mine when money permits. I would bet you may have more experience than anyone with the hundreds of details that cause folks to pull out their hair, or worse, give up. My brother-in-law, my sister and a neighbor have self published books and made a few bucks. I have the JTR small block Chevy swap book and a couple of copies of the Converse "manual" and they all leave a lot to be desired. If you wrote one with concise text and good photos based on your own hands-on experience, I'd buy one!
Lots of folks get in over their head and get discouraged; 2 weeks ago I bought a load of parts from an abandoned 260 Bertone/Ford swap here in Detroit.
Even though the number of folks doing this swap has fallen off, (I'll bet chiefly because the newest cars 25 years old and it's hard to find one without a lot of rust, at least here in the Midwest), there is still a lot of interest. I've seen 2, 240s, (both Fords), a 260 Bertone, (Ford, unfinshed and abandoned), and 2, 700 wagons, (1 sm. block Chevy, the other an LS) here in Detroit in the last couple years.

I appreciate the sentiments -- any "book" will have to be a paragraph at a time on forums here and there. There are actually lots of guys on the turbobricks site that have a lot more experience playing with these things than I do. And most are $ constrained, so it's often pretty creative what they come up with. I'm grateful to be at an age/station in life where if need be I can just throw the checkbook at it.

Well, unfortunately any time I throw the checkbook at my projects, it just "bounces" off and lands on the floor. Gotta have a big Ebay purge of H-D parts, Norton parts, Triumph parts, collectibles, (wonder what an original Patty hearst "Wanted" poster from the Post Office is worth?), to scare up some $$$ for the Volvo project. All of this stuff just collects dust and takes up space.
An idea; I have been a member of the Norton Owners club for near 30 years. The US club and the International club (UK based), for decades have compiled from the membership, tips, "how-to" info, trial and error experience, electrical info, part numbers, alternative parts, aftermarket parts, performance/reliability modifications, specifications, etc, and produced an excellent and absolutely essential to any Norton owner, "Tech Digest" and several videos/CDs on engine rebuilds, trans rebuilds, etc, sold by the clubs for a nominal, affordable price. Easily "readable", too. Perhaps there is something or someone possible along these lines? The JTR and the Converse books/manuals leave a LOT to be desired and a lot has changed since these were produced. More info= more interest= more people making parts= easier/better builds= more demand for old Volvos=our cars increasing in value.

If one were 'restoring' a 240/740/940 -- writing about it would be one thing. But engine conversions are entirely another. The reason is that there are so many different engine/tranny options and aftermarket "solutions" (oil pans and exhaust manifolds for example) --- and even the smallest thing changes the approach and the clearances. And, to me anyway, it doesn't make sense to go into great detail (so someone else could replicate) when the odds are slim that anyone else is going to end up with the exact same 'swap' when all is said and done. As an example -- for an LS swap -- depending on your oil pan, transmission and exhaust manifold choice - you move the engine 1/4"=1/2" in any direction and you have a different contact point. The pulley spacing and water pump outlet/inlet configurations are different for truck vs. F-body vs. Corvette based engines -- all kinds of possibilities for hoses, where accessories end up, exhaust routing, where hammering/cutting/welding needs to take place for clearance -- the list goes on and on. After asking lots of questions of lots of swappers who'd gone before me - it became evident I was pretty much going to have to figure it out on my own for my combination of parts. Hell - even the folks that did my ECU vats removal and supplied custom harness/O2's/gas pedal/mass air couldn't tell me how to hook up my alternator light for certain. They're suggestion definitely didn't work -- and once I figured it out, I passed my solution along to them! And they're REALLY good at what they do.

And then there's this -- most junk yard swappers have a number of functions (gauges, idiot lights, etc.) that either don't work or they work but they're not sure how/why -- or are unable to explain it to someone else.

Anyway - happy to help once you get there by answering questions and being a sounding board. AND -- much the same situation applies to coilovers - a hundred ways to skin the cat!

Snow is pretty much gone, 50+ deg. by weekend! Can't wait ot get busy again on 242 project. Well, after I do the patch panels and rockers on my truck. And the trans., fork springs & Gold valves on the bike. And the brick pavers I promised last summer. And.....

....keep your eye on the prize my friend....