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Thinking of going to look at a "professionally" installed 240 with an '86 Lincoln 5.0....states the Volvo factory gauges are operational...What do I need to know and ask about before I go look at this car...The car is like 600 miles from me...I did ask for more pictures of the door bottoms, tailgate, undercarriage, and inquired about if A/C there or works,any suspension upgrades, original rear end...Any other questions about the install I should ask?..He did say it is roadworthy and I should have no issues driving back home.....
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posted by
someone claiming to be Len Sapiro
on
Thu Jun 8 15:59 CST 2017 [ RELATED]
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I an searching for Volvo 240 series 242 or 245 with a V8 conversion
Anybody know of one for sale?
Len@pegasusshoes.com
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Hi Len,
You may want to re-post your request at the top of the V8 section here:
https://www.brickboard.com/V8/
I use both bing and google to find these craigslist sales for RWD Volvo autos with V8 (and V6) conversions or swaps.
You also have a facebook group that requires a facebook account and you then join the group:
V8 VOLVO CLUB
https://www.facebook.com/groups/217023333172/
You also have Turbobricks that helps with an account:
http://forums.turbobricks.com/
Now we also have search methods using search tools like Bing and Google.
In the Bing or Google search field, enter something like:
"Volvo 245" V8 swap site:craigslist.org
"Volvo 240" V8 swap site:craigslist.org
"Volvo 245" V8 conversion site:craigslist.org
"Volvo 240" V8 conversion site:craigslist.org
"Volvo 242" V8 conversion site:craigslist.org
"Volvo 242" V8 conversion site:craigslist.org
The -
site:craigslist.org
- specifies all U.S. craigslist sites are searched. Yet you can merely enter -
craigslist.org
craigslist
Using-
"Volvo 242"
"Volvo 245"
"Volvo 240"
- may better target the model, yet you can remove the quotes and see what you get if the web search tool is smart enough.
Some may call it a V8 conversion or swap. Or something else.
Some of these links to recent craigslist adverts may still be for sale in th thread to which you replied.
Also, craigslist resists being searched by the web search tools. The more and different ways you try, the better the results may be.
There also exist services you pay to perform the conversion for you. It is very expensive, yet as you read the Brickboard RWD forum, and Turbobricks, and elsewhere, you find doing the work will cost more than you may sell the car for.
The preference, I read, is for Chevy LS motors and the transmissions that fit behind them, be it manual gear box or automatic as you like.
Also, with the larger engine bay in 740 and 940, you may get more options. Though I've owned only Volvo 240 since 1985, well, I can understand you wanting to stay with the 242 Coupe (I've had two and miss them) and 240 Wagon (245).
The newer the 240, the better the rust anti-corrosion from the factory. Though with a good conduction body from the south and western states, and good cleansing of the body and blind compartments (the air vents below the windshield allows bio guck to get into the rocker panels), and heavy anti corrosion.
Also, the larger engine requires both the engine support and transmission cross member be reinforced. You do not want some 240 conversion with a welded differential that was welded. Some will upgrade the rear axle. Rear wheel bearings are not forever with added torque to the wheels.
You may want to ask on these various forms what to take notice of on better quality conversions. Not all are equal, so I read.
Anyhoo, I guess you've looked ta my posts in this thread that list recent craisglist sales for RWD Volvo V8s, with images (the craigslist images and links to them persist fro some time after the sale or advert expiry date passes):
https://www.brickboard.com/V8/volvo/1646242/v8_240_wanted.html
My 240s are all stock with manual transmission. They go plenty fast enough for me.
Questions?
Hope that helps.
MacDuffy's Tavern.
(email sent to Len)
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert. 
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1991 Volvo 940 Turbo Manual - $5000 (Norfolk, VA Beach, VA) - Posted 2017-04-26 1:01am
Not mine. See the craigslist advert for more info and to contact the seller. No engine bay images.
https://norfolk.craigslist.org/cto/6104797402.html
"Engine: Bottom end rebuilt last summer with all new bearings and oil pump, Bigger TD04 15G turbo running modest 12lbs boost(can easily turn it up to 20), 3 inch exhaust downpipe back with Magnaflow muffler, Newish NGK plugs, Newish Bosch wires, Newish MSD coil, Mobil 1 oil since I've owned it changed every 5,000.
Suspension: IPD lowering springs, Bilstein struts, 24mm front and 19mm rear sways, 960 underchasis brace, 215/45/17 BFGoodrich Sport Comp 2s with 90% tread left.
Other: Glass euro headlights, euro corner lights, Nice 960 headliner, 960 moonroof, 960 taillights Hidden 12 inch sub and amp, Boost gauge, AEM UEGO wideband AFR gauge.
I also have 55lbs injectors, adjustable timing gear, 3 inch MAF, spare head, spare intake and exhaust manifolds.
"
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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Wow, that car is moving on again! Good to see that it is still running, and seems to be in good condition.
I remember when Ross was building this, around 1999, and he would tell me about it when I would see him at Volvo events. I don't remember specifics, but he had to get creative with a lot of stuff to get it to work.
I'm wondering if the 104 mph in the 1/4 is a typo, because that's what my car can run, and it's only got a 306. And the 12.9 ET is ok, but at 104 mph, that would be a pretty good launch, and I wouldn't think the 960 IRS could handle that. 12.9 @ 114 mph would make more sense for that car, meaning lots of power, not much traction.
Thanks for posting this one!
Greg
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My homepage:
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Hi Greg,
Thank you and glad to help.
I like to screw around with the search engines. Usually Google and Bing. I see many rear wheel drive Volvo autos for sale and parts. So I post them here.
Not quite like the 1990s with many 1970s and early 1980s 240 and some 140s and 164s in the AutoTrader and Thrifty Nickel. Always craigslist.
I found your homepage with your Volvo 285!
http://users.rcn.com/gwong76/cars/car.html
Did you have to modify the engine support member, or fabricate a new one for the extra power. I read how some are able to reuse the factory engine support member, and merely weld support to fit the engine, yet end up forming fractures in the factory, if modded, engine support member, only to reinforce it it somehow.
Manual transmission.
You, like Mr. Yount, use the K&N cold air foam oiled filter for intake. So, I guess K&N is okay then, yet more so for performance?
Yep, another agree with you ... on the facegroup group:
V8 VOLVO CLUB
https://www.facebook.com/groups/217023333172/
One asks:
William Holman Why is it so slow? A stock 302 with a smaller supercharger will run those numbers.
Like · Reply · 21 hrs
The only reply thus far is:
Christopher Simons
My guess is the Conti street tires are limiting him somewhat
Like · Reply · 14 hrs
Glad that helps. Yeah, would the 960/90 IRS take that sort of power? I guess so? I have no idea.
Though, as I know utterly nothing about V8 swaps into rear wheel drive Volvo, would not a manual transmission meant for such performance yield better and more efficient power transfer. So long as as the drive know how and when to shift.
Though as efficient as autos are even into the late 1990s, I see race videos on the You Bube Toob, and those with auto seem to do well. The torque converter multiplying the torque while optimally upshifting. Even with a manual transmission meant for such strip, drag, and track performance, you have the instance the clutch is not engaged for the upshift. And then, you see other videos where manual transmission does much better. Though the V8 Volvo and the Mustang or other souped up auto may not be quite the same with vehicle weight and engine size, no matter the transmission.
I'd sort of hoped to soup up a redblock, like now 20 years ago, maybe. Then it was, "so it does not slow down mooring up a 6% grade". And now, stock 1990s 240, with the frail as heck M47, is about all I can handle. Though a 1972 164 with M410, a 1968 Amazon, and maybe a 1972 142, mildly souped up, or very well tuned factory default, is about all I can handle. When I get the large garage ...
I'll keep looking for more V8 rear wheel drive Volvos to post to this thread. I read about V6 swap in of Buick engines and such. Have yet to find any.
Hope that helps.
Happy Mad Day! Flowers in a basket for all, as for my teacher like four or so decades or more ago. She really liked them. The neighbors did not miss the flowers I dug up. Ha!
MacDuffys Turmeric and Ginger Tavern
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Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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The crossmember has been ok so far, but I keep an eye on the mounts and other parts down there to check for cracks, or bending.
The K&N isn't really my ideal choice, but the options are limited. I just haven't seen a good option for a high flowing OEM style airbox with a paper filter that will fit in the corner of the engine bay. If I did, I would probably use it. The thing that I need to do is extend the inlet hose so that the filter is closer to the front of the engine bay, and make a heat shield around it. That way, it will get inlet air from the area behind the grille, rather than the hot air in the engine bay. The position my filter is in right now costs me some power.
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My homepage:
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OH MY! Didn't notice that his thread was so old! Haha, hope it all tuned out well!
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Pay attention to the transmission if it is a manual. I recall the T5 only being rated for the 300 range in hp/torque. New internals are available from JEGS or SUMMIT for around $1500 to get you to just under 600, but that's it.
An LS is the way to go if you're you have the budget as the Tremec transmissions will bolt up and give you better gearing options. And they will take a whole heck of a lot more power through them. I'm currently trying to figure out how to mate an L31 5.7L block to a Tremec 6060. Hoping an adapter and a custom input shaft will be the ticket.
On another note, that 9 Series with the LS already done and a Tremec trans would be a pretty sweet deal for $12,000. All the head scratching has been done and if it runs you'd be having all the fun. It should be a runner as Snoqualmie is outside Seattle and in an area that I know has smog cert's to drive.
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Hi Chris. Thank you and good info.
I post this info here so other brickboard forum members and users can find what's for sale. Craigslist appears the best bet.
Many rear wheel drive (RWD) Volvo for sale, yet few buying, it appears. So, to help other find something RWD with V8 swap.
I may find and post some RWD Volvo V6 swaps, perhaps.
Hope that helps.
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Ignored by: 1 user
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1985 Volvo 245 V-8 - $800 (Stafford Springs, CT) Posted 6 Feb 2017
https://newlondon.craigslist.org/cto/5991760745.html
"1985 Volvo Wagon with Ford 302 FI engine, Automatic transmission. I do not have the title for the car. I believe it was last registered in CT. It ran a couple years ago, but now it wont start. I assume its a fuel or ignition problem. This would make a good donor/parts car for doing a v-8 conversion. Selling it as-is. Buyer will need to tow it home. Looking to get 800 or best offer."
Hope that helps.
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1980 Volvo 262 Bertone Coupe - Show Rod - $15000 (Santa Fe, NM)
https://phoenix.craigslist.org/cph/cto/5963148438.html
"Show quality 1980 Volvo Bertone Coupe hot rod. Created several years ago by a Tucson Volvo enthusiast ready for your spring and summertime cruising. Looking like a chopped top hot rod, this unique piece will get you strong attention at any car show or cruise in. ...
" ... 1978 Thunderbird 302 V8 and C6 automatic transmission ..."
No images. Not on Santa FE, NM or Albuquerque, NM craigslist sites. Maybe sold already, or already sold?
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Hope this helps.
1980 Volvo 262c Bertone w/chevy 350 swap 240 242 - $2500 (Orange City, FL)
https://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/5987317379.html
"Bought this off craigslist over the summer and just haven't had enough time to dedicate to it, so time to move on. I didn't do the swap, came that way, was apparently done by some shop down in Vero Beach. As best I can tell it's a TBI chevy 350 from an early 90s truck with an edelbrock manifold and carb, and a Jags That Run swap kit. Trans is a th350, shifts well, also has a custom one piece driveshaft. ..."
Must replace the strut mounts, as you can see in the images. As OEM and aftermarket is garbage, thanks to Ford and then Chinese Geely junk ownership, You'll want some www.kaplhenke.com or like camber (strut mount) plates.
Hope that helps. Merely the messenger. Trying to hone my search engine skills to a useful cause.
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I would be most concerned/interested in the fundamental shape the car is in - corrosion, paint, suspension bushings, brakes, interior trim condition, etc. Anything associated with the swap can be "fixed".
The motor is about the worst choice for a swap there is. The 86's had flat top pistons with no valve clearance notches. It doesn't have the E7 (HO) heads on it nor the HO cam. Upgrades in those areas must be modest because of minimal valve to piston clearance. A fox body Mustang or Explorer/Mountaineer engine is a much better starting point.
Gauges are pretty straightforward - you just adapt the Volvo sender to the Ford block --- usually a matter of finding the correct bushing.
Mine was converted with a 91 Mustang engine/tranny back in 96. Just pulled out the 5.0L and am installing an LS3. http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad214/MichaelYount/LS3%20Engine%20swap/newcovers_zpsweidhvjf.jpg
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82 242 6.2L coming...; '15 Honda Fit
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Thank You very much for the reply....seeing as the car is already converted, would I be safe in assuming it would be easy to install the "right" 5.0?....I would like it to be a real sleeper, and would certainly like to tweak the motor as time goes by; but if the Lincoln engine is a dud,and it is what it is, I will keep that in mind if everyting else pans out like the suspension, body condition, etc....I am awaiting his response to those things...Thanks Again for the reply....
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Rileyman, Don't know what State you're in but I am in Michigan. There is a really ragged white 244 (4 door), Turbo that has been for sale numerous times in the Detroit area. Looks like it was used for rallying in a salt mine. Carb'ed 5.0V8, 5 speed. has a few nice parts on it, but a real beater. Rough, rough, rough! Drove it once, couldn't bring my self to even make an offer on it, not even for a parts car for my own 242 V8 project. If this is the car you're looking at, RUN!!!
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Hi nortons,
Do you mean this one:
V8 powered Volvo 240 - $2500 (Dearborn)
http://detroit.craigslist.org/wyn/cto/5693948273.html
1982 Volvo 240 sedan. Formerly a Turbo model, now powered by a Ford 302 (5.0L) V8 backed by a T-5 manual transmission. Unknown mileage, swap was done by a previous owner. Has rust, as to be expected of a 30+ year old Michigan car.
Selling because I have too many projects and need the space. I've got another car coming soon and can't store them all.
Installed a new clutch and a Painless wiring harness last summer. I've driven maybe a total of 1500 miles since I bought it, just don't have the time. Includes a LSD diff (Eaton G80) I never found time to install.
Best way to describe the car is raw. It's loud, brutal, and completely unexpected. Would make a cool Roadkill car, hotrod, or drift machine.
$2500 obo. I'm open to certain trades like K5 Blazers, old trucks, or LS powered anything.
Please text or email, I get a ton of spam calls on my phone. If you must call, leave a voicemail if I do not answer.
How our Uncle Art does it:
Hope that helps.
--
Give your brickboard.com a big thumbs up! Way up! - Roger Ebert.
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On the other hand - my older brother bought an EXTREMELY rough 84 242 5.0L efi powered that had lived in NY/NJ and later in FL along the coast. Extreme corrosion. And when he went to pick it up - it wouldn't start. Think he paid $600 for it and put it on the trailer. Fuel pump was the no start issue. Dragged it back to Augusta, Ga. I knew the NY owner - and knew that the engine in it was a relatively new 345HP FRPP crate engine. He pulled the motor out and put it in the 86 Mustang he was building (pic below). Did a deal with me - I could pull off anything I wanted -- and he'd take half of whatever I sold. Got a bunch of black interior trim pieces and a Great Volvo/Momo steering wheel. The rusted shell went to junkyard heaven. Full circle - Mustang motor into Volvo out of Volvo back into Mustang. His 5.0L and T5 cost him about $300 and I got some great parts out of it. And the PO got rid of a steaming hunk of rust. A great deal for all.
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82 242 6.2L coming...; '15 Honda Fit
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"....would I be safe in assuming it would be easy to install the "right" 5.0?."
Well - define EASY. LOL In my experience, every swap requires a good bit of head scratching and work if you're truly interested in finding an elegant solution, as opposed to just cobbling something together.
Motor mounts/tranny mount should work on another 5.0L with no or little modification. The rad being used should hook up (inlet/outlet in same location). Working out the efi on the Fox body or Explorer/Mountaineer motor will require some work - you'll want engine/harness/ecu from the donor vehicle.
Were it me and you decide to ditch the Lincoln lump -- I'd go Chevy 4.8/5.3/6.0/6.2 LS variety. Too plentiful and too inexpensive to go any other way.
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82 242 6.2L coming...; '15 Honda Fit
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