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Yeah, unfortunately the car needs a 561 or a 951 to run. The older (LH2.2) ones won't work.
Try these things:
1) check for spark. I pull off the coil wire at the dist, tuck it in by the left hood hinge and crank. I can see the end of the wire while I crank it myself that way. Good regular spark tells you that your crank sensor is OK. (No hall sensor on this later car). No spark, plan on getting it towed for a crank sensor replacement.
2) unplug the Air Mass Meter (AMM) in the LF fender area. 6-pin plug to it. Do this with the key off. If the car starts, GENTLY drive home, no heavy throttle or it's likely to stall. Plan on a new AMM in the morning. (Rebuilts are junk IMHO, likely to fail again.)
3) still no start, check the cam: have someone crank it while you look in the oil cap. No rotation = broken timing belt. Plan on having it towed. The belts can actually look OK even if damaged- sometimes they strip teeth off around the crank pulley and it turns but won't run the cam and dist.
4) beyond that, you will probably have to get into the ECU or a fuel pump. Yes, main pumps do fail and sometimes (rarely in my exp) they will RUN but not pump. I've only seen this with non-Bosch main pumps. Either way, maybe get it towed to somewhere more hospitable.... though I did a main pump right on a side road here in CT last year for someone. I don't recommend it, put it that way!
Good luck!
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Rob Bareiss, New London CT ::: Roterande Fläkt Och Drivremmar!
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