In the performance of a compression test, I do not recall ever pulling any fuses, some times I would disconnect the coil. I usually used a starter button device to bypass the switch, this made it a one-man job.
About 4 to 6 turn-overs yielded full compression
This on the old Saabs and Volkswagens, MG and Triumph,etc.
I don't think the engine temperature mattered - usually the problem was a burned valve or two, sometimes a badly blown head gasket.
The leak-down test is considered to be better, more accurate.
One can also pull one ignition cable at a time and measure the RPM drop at an idle.
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