Well I found a good mechanic and it was a faulty AMM causing my problems (for the most part). He replaced it with a used one that only cost $40, which was cheaper than I had been quoted a used price. He also changed the rotor and plugs, and did a compression test. Total bill, including towing $159! Can't beat that!
Now he did tell me that the compression test showed that one of the cylinders (# 2) was running at 75 rather than 125. He said that would require a valve job, which I can't afford right now, and that is what is causing the shaking at idle and the slow exhiliration. Question: Can increasing the idle help lessen the shaking and increase the pick up? It runs great at open highway.
Also what would cause a "clunk" in the front when you step on the breaks quickly? And if they defrost won't work what do I check? ~claudie~