If you are in a safe place outdoors (parking place with some wind and no smokers) or in an appropriate well ventilated area, and have the regular amount of guts you can take off the fuel lines before and after the FPR and check if there is good pressure during or after a very brief crank (try one at a time, then crank and try the next)(the brief crank starts the fuel pumps enough to build up the normal operating pressure). If I remember right, you should have good pressure before the FPR even a minute after crank (fuel squirts out when disconnecting). The line after the FPR I think you can stick (or connect to a hose and stick) into a small bucket or something, and there should be a good flow of fuel while cranking. If poor fuel flow there, and poor remaining pressure in line before FPR, then there is something wrong with anything from in-tank filter, in-tank pump/tubing or main fuel pump/filter. If fuel flow is good after FPR but poor remaining pressure before FPR, then trhe FPR is poor, and letting fuel flow past it. It is very easy to change the FPR, and something you might want to do anyway if the car has considerable mileage. When changing FPR, look out for the 3-4 mm thick black O-ring in seat towards rail. If difficult to push in new one (O-ring on the connection), just apply tiny bit of motor oil/grease. Supposedly, a main fuel pump should last 120-150 k miles (local grapevine truth, for what it is worth).

When working on the fuel system, remember that gas fumes can flow "downhill" towards heated items and ignite.