Just in case, check that the VIN on the dash matches the title VIN you gave and the VIN the dealer faxed to Volvo for the key code (phone the dealer to verify what they sent) and even ask them to re-check with Volvo (typos can happen anywhere). No matter what the cars history, the key code should be correct for at least one of the four locks in the car. If that checks out then you probably have the right key provided they punched it correctly. A dead giveaway of an incorrectly punched key is unmatched notching of the two sides. A good dealer will punch another for free if there is any doubt, but do the following first. A common problem is that their punch may be getting a bit worn and/or they didn't de-burr the key adequately. So have the key buffed heavily with a wire wheel. That often does wonders. The buffing may need to be repeated a number of times. If you do it yourself, be warned that keys really like to fly. If the inside of the lock is gummy then cleaning may help, but for a slightly worn lock it might just make it more sensitive to the key shape. To clean the lock use something like WD-40 as a flushing agent and work the key in and out a few times. The driver's door lock may be more worn than others, so you may want to mostly test a new key on the passenger lock. Failing that, get another key from another dealer. Locksmiths can only duplicate keys. They cannot make a key from the code without the magic Volvo key punch and the code chart which are only available to dealers. If you get additional keys cut, consider making one of them a service (valet) key so you can keep the trunk and glovebox secure when others have the car. It's the thickness of the key blank, not the key code that differentiates a valet key. I recently paid the equivalent of about U$10 for a keycode and key, so your $19 sure isn't cheap unless they threw in a real nice key fob.