After evaluating and tracing the entire circuits of the temperature gauge and the temperature compensation board, here is the solution for eliminating the board entirely from the system. This will make the gauge more accurate and allow it to fluctuate precisely with the engine temperature.

Note also that this was done after doing the "don foster" fix (new op-amp and transistor), which was unsucessful.

Remove the display panel, and remove the cover (unscrew and unplug the voltage regulator, and remove the front window panel)

You should be able to see the infamous temperature compensation board on the lower right. Unplug it.

for reference's sake, assume the following numbering for the pins. Looking down at the display (speedometer should be facing you and in the middle), the furthest pin to the left is ONE, then two three and four. (These are the pins that normally connect into the temp-comp board)

Solder a wire from pin 1 to pin 3 to bridge past the tempcomp board.

Now, for all of those who are wondering how this works. Power goes into both the gas gauge and the temp gauge from pin 4 (which comes from the voltage regulator). this power runs three places: both gauges and the tempcomp board. Since both gauges are still powered from the printed wire that powers pin 4, disconnecting the board does not affect power into the gauges. Pin three runs to the wiring harness that runs directly to the temperature sender-- a temperature-varying resistor on the block. Pin 2 is an internal ground for the operational amplifier on the tempcomp board. Since you now do not have a temperature compensation board in your dash, this pin is now irrelevant. Pin one recieves current after it has passed through the gauge but before it has made it to the temp-sender. Therefore, by connecting pin1 to pin3, you safely eliminate the ever failing temperature compensation board from you system.