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Re: rotor change 200 85

Phil,

You got everything necessary, but I'll add a couple more to make your life easier.

1. Buy a new hardware kit for each axle. Pins, clips, springs. Then you won't have to deal with rusted, bent or broken thingies that are impossible to find on a Sunday afternoon.

2. Coat the pins, backs of pads, and pad/caliper contact areas (ledges on the calipers that mate with the edges of the pad backing plate) with a little bit of lubricant. Syl-glide (spelling?) is made especially for this purpose, but wheel bearing grease should work. Don't get any on the pad surface or rotor!

3. Coat the face and edges of the hub, where it mates with the rotor, with anti-sieze. (This suggestion is from the instructions that come with ATE rotors)

Read the instructions that came with your pads and rotors. PBR and ATE specify a break in procedure, other brands may also do so.

Also, with ATE Power Discs (the atom-groovy rotors), don't remove the anit-corrosion coating. I don't know why, but that's what ATE says in big, red letters on their instructions. This doesn't apply to other brands. ATE's coating is dry and waxy, unlike the oily stuff on every other rotor I've seen.






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New rotor change [200][85]
posted by  someone claiming to be Phil Stone  on Tue Jul 10 13:05 CST 2001 >


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