To Zee (and anyone else who is following this one):

First, thanks for all the good ideas.

> 1. On the '86 you should not be hearing the fuel pumps

> "whirring" while your are driving, or even

> "hesitating" at a stop. A faint buzzing from the main fuel

> pump is normal, but you have to be sitting still and quietly to hear

> that. Aloud main fuel pump could indicate a failing pump, a clogged

> fuel filter, a malfunctioning in-tank pump, or a bad fuel pressure

> regulator. Where to start? Fuses. Be sure to install a BUSS (glass)

> fuse for each pump in place of the ceramic ones. Those can look OK,

> but be failed.

The in-tank pre-pump was just replaced. The fuel pressure regulator tested OK, but who knows? Quite a few people have been suggesting that the main fuel pump may be intermittent, so I'll have that looked at more closely. But each time I ask a mechanic to check the fuel pump they always say it's OK. The fuel pressure regulator was looked at about six months ago, but I'm not sure I trust the guys who did the checking (they sold me a junkyard pull air mass meter, which I later found out is a really dumb idea. That, and the original AMM seems to be fine, so I had the "new" part pulled and the original put back in.)

I'll also check the fuses tomorrow (it's going to be reasonably warm out, so this will be easy)... What should I be looking for? Blown fuses? I have a Haynes manual which has a chart of the fuses and their functions. I can follow that for clues...

> 2. High speed miss usually indicates cracked spark plug. I notice

> your list of recent parts & services did not include ignition

> work.

Ignition wires were just replaced about two months ago. Had new ignition wires when I bought the car about a year ago, so I don't see why I needed new ignition wires again. Spark plugs were also replaced two months ago. Ignition system was fixed up about six months ago, when I had the rebuilt injector and new injector rail put in.

> 3. Low speed, idle miss indicated a failed spark plug wire or coil

> wire. BTW, how is the coil?

Good question, I'll have it checked again. I think it was replaced when the engine wiring harness was replaced, but I'm not positively sure on that. I'll look on the receipt.

> 4. Clogged fuel filter doesn't help. Get the fuel system pressure

> tested, too. Fuel pressure regulator could be a culprit. Pump relay,

> as someone mentioned.

Fuel pressure was just tested to be OK, but not after high revs I'm sure. Is the pump relay for the in-tank pump the same as the one for the main fuel pump? I can't seem to find that in the Haynes manual (but I'll be looking again now that you've mentioned it...)

I'm going to have the fuel filter replaced tomorrow, just to be safe.

> 5. Any recent throttle body service?

Yeah, it was cleaned back when the injector was replaced. I've been looking for that receipt...

> 6. What is the idle speed?

About 700 rpm when cold, going up to 1000-1100 rpm when fully warmed up. Idle is slightly lower with AC on.

> 7. OD problem could be a relay or bad wire someplace. trace the wires

> down to the OD solenoid, checking for cuts in the insulation.

I might wait for warmer weather and follow this through myself. I can live without using the OD, but I can't live with this lurching/bucking/hesitation thing.

One more thought... The shop that replaced the engine wiring harness (Integrated Automotive Services in Easton) managed to break the cruise control when they did the rewiring work. When I asked them about it they said it was an easy fix, just a hose not attached in the right place. I have no info about this rather rare cruise control assembly, so I can't tell if it's hooked up right or not. This couldn't be causing these problems could it? Maybe your Bentley manual has some info?

Thanks again!