Paula --

A B18.

The gas is probably stale. More on that later.

The battery is probably shot. Replace and charge.

The carbs will probably need to be cleaned and lubed.

Remove the plugs and squirt a teaspoon or two of clean oil into each cylinder. Inspect the plugs—if clean, reuse. Otherwise replace.

Replace distributor cap, rotor, points, plug wires unless they have few miles.

Fan belt now or soon.

Crank the engine — you might need to "prime" it with a bit of clean, fresh fuel in the carbs.

When it starts, watch to be sure it develops oil pressure within a few seconds—if not, shut it down IMMEDIATELY. If no oil pressure, call in a Volvo-savvy mechanic.

When it starts, expect a cloud of smoke (from the oil in the cylinders). It should clear in a minute or two.

Check under the engine for leaks.

After if warms up, run the RPM up and down a bit, let it run 10-15 minutes, then shut it down and dump the oil and filter. Use a Volvo ot Mann filter, if possible.

With fresh oil, drive it carefully and slowly around the neighborhood. After an hour or two of running, consider changing the antifreeze (to renew the antirust properties).

You might notice that the engine pings or runs poorly (stale gas). Fill the tank with hi-octane to compensate.

After 5 years, the brakes might be rusty, the calipers frozen, and the master cylinder defective or bypassing. Also the steel lines and flex hoses might be bad. This is something a qualified Volvo-savvy mechanic should check for you.

Examine the gas tank for evidence of pinhole leaks. They'll form from internal condensation over the years, and this occurs at the fluid level of the gasoline in the tank.

It's possible the fuel line from the tank to the pump (on the engine) has rusted through.

Change the fuel and air filter (and look for rodents living in the air cleaner housing). Clean the crankcase ventilation system.

Obviously, before driving the car, confirm that the tireas are sound and at correct pressure.

If it's a standard transmission, be sure the clutch disengages properly. The hydraulics might be frozen, and the clutch disc might be rusted to the flywheel.

After a good drive, check the differential housing for evidence of weeping. As with the gas tank, the stamped steel cover can develop rust pinholes.

After several days of driving, carefully examine the engine for evidence of leaks at the front and rear of the crankshaft. That engine used felt seals, which are normally prone to a bit of seepage. But degradation during 5 years of non use might permit greater leaking.

Also keep an eye on the radiator for leaks, and watch the water pump for leaks. That water pump might begin to growl if the bearings are failing.

Good luck!

Don Foster (near Cape Cod, MA)