Hi,

You said you put in a new clutch fork so I wondered if you need to adjust the pivot ball height?

On some clutches it is between you and the input shaft or on the other side, like on the 240s it holds the opposite end.
The ball is a fulcrum point of a lever on the one style but a it’s lifting point on the other far end to get aligned across the fingers.
I have no idea which transmission you have that far back but either design works.
The remake of throw out bearings could also be the cause no doubt.
The ball stud was an additional adjustment needed for variations in manufacturing or tolerances.

With the one on your side it is adjusted to far out towards the engine and loses throw.
With the one like on the 240s it is not out far enough so it sets the fork too far backwards as technically it doesn’t pivot but gets pulled into the clutch fingers.

I believe they are both screwed into the housing from the inside but locked in place from the outside.
You are supposed to do the adjustment before installing the transmission onto the engine.
It gets adjusted to something of slightly more in stroke of what it takes to press the fingers in to disengage the clutch disc.

You might be able to remove the outside nut and try to turn the whole ball’s stud while in place. There is a hex for doing that on the inside but doubtful to do it from the opening and on 240s it cannot be seen.

Without pressure on the fork it should be able to move fairly easily but if not, you may have to double nut the thread sticking out to be able to give it a turn or two.

A couple of threads will produce quite a bit of throw in one direction or another.
It’s about centering the length of stroke.

Other than what I have said I have no other clues as you are seeing that it’s hitting the housing and you are not running out of pedal stroke from above by cable or hydraulics.

Post back what you get to work as it helps others.

Phil