Hey Bill,
I had (still have, actually) a different issue with my washer reservoir. In my case, I took the airbox out. I've never removed a headlight, so I don't know which is easier. As I recall, you've installed e-codes, so you know what you're getting into with that. The airbox wasn't too difficult, on the chance you haven't done it. I think I had to do a bit of prying to pop the pegs out of the rubber bungs on the fenderwell side, but I didn't break anything. Might be a knuckle buster, so wear gloves. As an added bonus, getting the box out makes it easier to test / replace the hot air thermostat, if you haven't bypassed it. My car is NA. I know everything is on the opposite side with a Turbo, and there is obviously more going on. So if your car is Turbo, I can understand trying to find another way.

Anyway, with the airbox removed, everything was really easy to see and access. As the pumps pull straight up, I think getting at it from the top would be easier, once you have access.

My issue was actually the rubber seal between the filler tube and the top of the tank. Whenever I would fill my tank (I fill to where I can see fluid in the neck), I'd lose some on the ground. I initially thought I had a bad pump seal (I've dealt with that on at least one other car). So I pulled the airbox thinking I'd find a leaky pump to reservoir seal. That's when I discovered the real issue. I was hoping I could just soften the seal a bit. I didn't have any oil of wintergreen on hand, so I cleaned it, and applied Lexol vinyl and rubber treatment--which didn't do a damned thing. Since I can see part of the reservoir from underhood, I simply don't top it off, and that has made me lazy to solve the issue. As I haven't found a source for that seal, I'm going to give that John Deere tire tire and rubber protection a try. I've heard good things, and want to use it on my exterior rubber anyway. Should that fail, there's always RTV or the like.