Hi,

Maybe I'm being a turkey today on here, but doesn't that shell come out of there anyways? It looks cooked! (:-)

The new bushing comes with the outer shell with the rubber casted into the center of it. There is also a center spacer that the trailing arm channel fastens up against to.

The bushing removal tool come with a drop in spacer that holds the ears apart while the tool imparts its pressure upon the bushing sleeve or shell. If not for the spacer the ears would collapse under the squeeze.
I have a the factory bushing tool that RPR use to rent out for big bucks just because they might not get returned! He sold me his when he closed the store and he had spare threaded screw rods come with it too! They do take a beating if not lubricated nicely!
I got the unit for probably half of new and that was around a $100.

I have never put in urethane bushings so consequently I have never paid much attention to them. Don't they come assembled, just as units of the original bushings?

I read where Michael Yount says you don't have to have the car sitting flat on the ground for the front end lower arm bushing if they are polyurethane type.
The originals have outer sleeves but the polyurethane slipping loosely into the box support might be the case there? I just don't know either?
Michael will have to find the dime in the bowl of black eyed peas on this one, just in time for the Christmas Ham dinners next month! (:-)

Are they selling the rear trailing bushings with just the polyurethane centers without any steel spacers let alone the shell. Even though the center spacer could be retrieved from the old unit.
For the rust belt areas, that would never fly with me for the price they want for them.
Double check for the information on those poly bushings!

The fan belt driven accessories on the engine have pop-in rubber bushings but that is a light weight load application when compared to the suspension plus they don't want to change out brackets either.

Ok the stuffing is out of this turkey.
Happy thanksgiving!

Phil