There are many posts on this subject. I'm surprised you have not read one sometime or another.
They are very durable as long as you get a good one off the bat. 50 to 60K is a good run on one.
I had one that was still working but seemed a little weak and wide on the center range.
I pulled it and its metal shield was missing.
You can the read the voltage output with a digital voltmeter that has a fast sample rate of quick response time to the display.
You have the engine warmed up. Peel back the boot to expose a flat blade terminal. One lead to it and the other to a ground point on the engine.
I own an Actron company unit that has 10 red LED lights to cover the one volt range. It's very visual ladder look and is fast.
I can use it under the hood or hang it around into the right window and watch it going down the road.
If I see the lights hanging to long, at either end or not moving, it's probably dead or dying.
I don't think the OBD will tell on the O2 exactly with a code. A Rich or lean code is a catch-all!
With this tester you can heat the shield with a propane torch and make the lights dance while cleaning any carbon off.
Hope this helps with whatever you are looking for.
Phil
|