Hi jonny2box,

Sorry to be so cryptic. I figured you would answer quickly as you had just posted when I replied. Of course, I meant the heater in the oxygen sensor. An oxygen sensor like yours depends on the heater function.

The sensor is heated by a resistive element powered by the fuse 4 circuit along with the tank pump. A quick way to determine whether it works is to measure its resistance shortly after disconnecting it on the running car. The connection where you measure it is below the wiper motor -- a two pin junction with white wires leading to the sensor.

Measuring the resistance immediately after disconnecting it, toward the sensor of course, will show a reading in the neighborhood of 13 ohms, and as it cools you will see the resistance dropping toward a cold value of about 4 ohms. That test assures you the heater is intact and its power source valid. The test takes about 5 minutes.

If the heater does not respond as above, you would check to see it is getting powered before replacing the oxygen sensor.

By the way, I was not available to check your thread yesterday as I was under a car replacing the downpipe. I welded the Y and the holes around the midpoint brace back in Oct. 13, but now the whole aftermarket pipe is like Swiss cheese. Frankly I was surprised my welding (using oxyacetylene and coat hanger for filler) lasted that long.


--
Art Benstein near Baltimore

SUCCESS:
At age 4 success is . . . not peeing in your pants.
At age 12 success is . . . having friends.
At age 16 success is . . . having a drivers license.
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At age 50 success is . . . having money.
At age 60 success is . . . going all the way.
At age 70 success is . . . having a drivers license.
At age 75 success is . . . having friends.
At age 80 success is . . . not peeing in your pants.