Hi,

This is a car I acquired late last summer in seemingly excellent shape, but I have no service records.

It recently developed a growly once-per-wheel revolution noise that I first thought might be a sticking caliper. It turned out to be a front wheel bearing but before finding it I checked out the calipers. The rear driver's side was not releasing as I thought it should, so I pulled it and began rebuilding it. When I split the caliper there was a snotty brown lump stuck around the O ring.

I'd never seen anything like that and wondered if it had the original brake fluid. I also figured there'd be more trouble ahead.

I buttoned it up and bled the brake and it retracted a lot better, but the next morning the brake failure light stayed on after start up. I shut it down and it stayed off after restart. It did this again in the afternoon but came back on a few miles later and it's been on ever since.

I know it could be air in the system, but I've bled the whole thing twice now, running a gallon of fluid through with no solution, so I'm wondering now if I haven't pulled some gunk into the switch at the junction block. The pedal is high and hard and this is a very busy time of year for me, so before pulling it I'll hope that the clean fuid might dislodge it, but I dbout it will.

I have an old spider from my parts barrel that I took apart to see what I could see and it looks like the switch piston only has to move less than a millimeter to contact the end cap, so a litle rust there might be making a connection. I may loosen or take off the caps before going further.

Any advice would be appreciated. One other piece of information is that when I was bleeding the system, the pedal would not go down as far on the side of the rebuilt caliper as it would on the other side. The rebuilt caliper is on the circuit with the 2 upper front. The pedal on all 3 of those bleeders would stop a little past halfway to the floor. Is that normal and if not, why ?

Thanks, Peter