Definately look for OBD codes, to give you some clues where to start. Run the OBD tests (they are so cool...check and see the injectors are running as well as the throttle bypass solenoid and the start injector (if it uses one).Bad starting from cold followed by poor idle then a nice warm upand no further probs can be indicative of either failed engine coolant sensor (either dead wiring or dead sensor) or the ECU is ignoring the input from a good sensor. The fact that the car runs well once warmed up suggests that the basics (plugs wires dizzy cap rotor arm etc) plus the EZK-ignition box are prob OK. So you can test the sensor by looking at its resistance at cold. (to find it, it is near cylinder 3 intake, so its not the first sensor you can see, that one is the dash temp sensor). At zero centigrade it should be about 6K Ohms. Hot engine, around 150 Ohms. If the sensor is OK and there is no OBD code then it could well be the ECU. DIsconnect the ECU (disconnect battery first and wait 5 mins) then test pins 13 and 5...you should see the same resistance I mentiond earlier. This shows the sensor is fine and so is the input to the ECU. If this is the case, then its the ECU...get it reconned or find a replacement from a scrapyard...If the sensor is dead, they are about 15 bucks on Ebay...failures caused by crankshaft sensors are more often linked to hot starting probs. They are not expensive to change, about 50 dollars..hope this helps