My understanding is to date you have ignition spark and fuel, yet still will not start. Even with computer set timing, you can verify correct timing with a timing light. Correct timing and spark leaves fuel and air problem.

If you have fuel to the rail, then the next stop is check the injectors with a noid light for the firing signal from the ECU and then pull the injectors with rail out (watching the fragile metal tip when you do) so you can easily test them where you can see and separate each. Injectors are held to the fuel rail with a c-clip.

The injector rail is easy to pull, use the wire bails to release each injector connector, a ten mmm socket on the two bolts going into the manifold and the two fuel lines (make sure you hold both sides of fittings and pull wrenches together)and pull straight up. The drivers side (Cyl 3-2-1) is easier to pull. Install with injectors secured to the fuel rail as it is too easy to cut an o-ring on the top of the injector with the rail caps. Put a little silicon grease on the o-ring for the manifold to help the injectors slide into the hole when you reinstall. Also clean the injector ground wires ring terminals that go under the bolts.

Out of the car you can check each injector by putting nine to twelve volts across the two pins and using either a can of starting fluid and a straw (cleans junk out also) or low pressure air 40 lb or less as that is normal range of fuel pressure. If they test ok and open, both click and pass fuel, forget about the other side injectors as they are probably ok also, and look again at the fuel pressure.

Fuel pressure culprits (in order of failures encountered): Radio suppression relay (RSR), fuel pump relay, fuel pressure regulator, fuel filter, pressure pump, in-tank pump, in-tank pump hose rarer-pressure pump check valve, rarest-bad injectors as determined by the commmuity experience. Engine harness not listed as 88 is about when better harnesses were cut in and yours is a 90.