I've been taking another approach.

I first hang the engine from a engine support and then remove the motor mounts completely. I also made a spreader shackled to the front and rear engine lifting lugs. The spreader has long, load-rated, FORGED eyebolts on either end which provide a lot of adjustment to the inclination of the engine. (I know that the engine/trans assembly doesn't weigh all that much, but it's my ass lying under that hunk of cast iron and I'm certainly not going to trust it to some bent wire, Chinese eyebolts from Home Depot)

Correctly rigged, the engine/transmission are floating and can be easily moved and tilted into the best angle for removing the trans.

I also put a small piece of 1 1/2" thick lumber between the cylinder head and the firewall. This maintains the clearance needed for the trans to be pulled towards the rear of the car.

And, I watch my front teeth - the trans can come off abruptly.


Rich - Near Pittsburgh