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Replaced the Ignition Coil- No Start. HELP! 700

Hello all! Longtime lurker, but this situation has prompted me to make my first post. I'm sure you all can point me in the right direction.

The car in question is a 1988 Volvo 780, B280F, LH 2.2, EZK115.

I have been chasing a problem where the car will start and drive perfectly well for roughly 7-9 minutes. As the car gets warmer, the car will stumble and buck, and at one point I couldn't give the car gas at all- it just wouldn't move. Some research and experienced friends told me to take a look at the ignition module, as they sometimes have intermittent failures like that, related to heat. I performed the tests outlined in the 7/9 faq on my old ignition module, and it passed when cold, then failed when hot. The ignition coil was a similar story- passed the tests when cold, then failed when hot. At least now I had some direction.

I put both new parts in today. However, when I removed the wiring for the coil, I mixed them up, and I mis wired the new one in. I went to turn the car on, and in KPII, the injectors were all firing. There was one blue wire connected to each of the terminals on the coil, and the red/white wire(tach wire) was connected to the positive terminal. I turned the car off, found the right way to wire it, and now there are the two blue wires on the positive terminal and the red/white wire is on the negative.

Now here's where it gets interesting. If you put the car in KPII, the ignition coil starts clicking rapidly, and when pushed to KPIII, the car will crank but not start. In addition, in KPII the tach registers 1000rpm, even though the car isn't running. Finally, one of the blue wires is getting hot to the touch, and the tach and other blue wire are cool.

I'm confused guys, and getting frustrated. Any ideas? What have I done to my poor car?






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New Replaced the Ignition Coil- No Start. HELP! [700]
posted by  AMRBorg  on Sun Mar 25 17:50 CST 2012 >


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