The key to proper installation of pocket bushings is ride height. You want the new bushing and it's bracket bolted in at a position relative to static ride height. If it's tweaked, it will fail sooner. Before changing pocket bushings I drive the car to make sure the suspension is settled. If you enter a driveway prior to the work, don't bounce the car. Crank the wheel away from the back of the arm and get in there with some white paint. Mark the a-arm tail and the bushing pocket clearly--not the bushing itself! Chock the rear wheels, remove the three bolts on the pocket and then jack up the car. This helps keep strain off the threads and allows you to note the position of the pocket relative to the holes and subframe. I use a long extension to remove the bushing nut and to replace it. I also put a four x four between the subframe and the a-arm to get more room at the pocket. A long enough one can be used for some leverage if you need more room. On the driver's side, be careful not to damage the brake distribution block and the wiring/switch therein. When you put it back together, make sure you align your marks well. This assures that when the a-arm is raised back into position by the weight of the car, the new bushing will not be torqued. I use anti-seize on the stud for the bushing. If you get the pocket back in the exact same spot, or close, on the frame, that's a good thing. I put one bolt in, start it, then use a pry-pick to align the second and third holes. There's usually enough undercoating in the area to help you get everything aligned to where it was.
DS