Regarding your replies so far:

I wouldn't touch a thing except to swap cams, check/adjust valve clearances, and replace gaskets.

If the 240 hadn't been smacked, that head would be still doing fine 100K miles or more from now.
Even 200K is a reasonable expectation, IMO.

This is actually very good news and food for thought. It's what I needed to hear, really. I just want to make sure this thing is solid, and cleaned up before putting it in. I hope I can put it all back together as-is, but cleaned up of course.

Regarding the following: At a minimum, check the mating surface for true, the minimum distance from the deck mating surface to cam cover gasket surface, the valve guides for wear, install new seals, and lap the valves to the seats at reassembly. You will need shims to adjust the valves. IPD has a kit they will rent to you and charge only for the shims you use.

I think this is what I'd like to do with this head. I have a micrometer and can check the valves for wear, and so forth. No dial gauge though, so see how much wobble the valves have in the guides. And I appreciate the links - that other guy's site is pretty detailed. I started reading it all just now, but I'm at the office and need to limit my internet time...

Anyway, a quick question before I get to work on things tonight: I'll go buy a valve spring compressor tonight. But while taking the valves out (and yes I'll store them all individually and identified) do I need to note the "rotational" position of them as they are now, and re-install them the same way later on? I can't imagine this would be necessary, but you never know. Do they rotate in the guides, during operation? I doubt it, but don't know for sure. I can't wait to get going on this thing tonight.

But now, reading that other guy's site regarding the head rebuild he did, I'm tempted to try that polishing idea...